Cis air meter plate check
#196
@GerritD hope this helps:
https://youtube.com/shorts/t9E0TP0Lq4E?feature=share
and
https://youtube.com/shorts/GhgJqclJb6M?feature=share
cold start…
https://youtube.com/shorts/t9E0TP0Lq4E?feature=share
and
https://youtube.com/shorts/GhgJqclJb6M?feature=share
cold start…
#197
@GerritD hope this helps:
https://youtube.com/shorts/t9E0TP0Lq4E?feature=share
and
https://youtube.com/shorts/GhgJqclJb6M?feature=share
cold start…
https://youtube.com/shorts/t9E0TP0Lq4E?feature=share
and
https://youtube.com/shorts/GhgJqclJb6M?feature=share
cold start…
Lately my car starts much better after setting my mixture again and when pressing gas pedal a bit down to let more air and better start.
So I suspect my injectors are leaking although they are renewed 5y ago….
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wopfe (06-05-2023)
#198
Sorry @GerritD - I missed your question regarding adjustment of the AAV.
First you’ll need to drill out the rivets and replace with bolts and nylocs.
Then, without the wife seeing, put it in the freezer for an hour. This will open the valve to max position. On mine this is now when that little notch (see pic) is a few mm from the edge - I.e. the valve doesn’t fully open. NB - the pic below was taken before adjustment and engine wasn’t fully warm.
To adjust - with valve dissembled - carefully grip the bi-metallic strip with a pair of pliers and gently bend it according to the adjustment you want to make. The valve part is spring loaded so when you re-assemble i found inserting a plastic pen to hold it open helped.
To test warm I use a 12v power source on the valve for at least 10-15 mins. The valve nearly fully closes - you see prob about 1mm of that same notch. If you found it was more open than this I would adjust back slightly - it might not matter if it’s open a little more though, as long as you can adjust the difference with the idle screw I suppose.
As mentioned you will need to adjust your idle speed.
My car starts a lot quicker now so pleased with the result. Let me know how you get on!
Cheers
First you’ll need to drill out the rivets and replace with bolts and nylocs.
Then, without the wife seeing, put it in the freezer for an hour. This will open the valve to max position. On mine this is now when that little notch (see pic) is a few mm from the edge - I.e. the valve doesn’t fully open. NB - the pic below was taken before adjustment and engine wasn’t fully warm.
To adjust - with valve dissembled - carefully grip the bi-metallic strip with a pair of pliers and gently bend it according to the adjustment you want to make. The valve part is spring loaded so when you re-assemble i found inserting a plastic pen to hold it open helped.
To test warm I use a 12v power source on the valve for at least 10-15 mins. The valve nearly fully closes - you see prob about 1mm of that same notch. If you found it was more open than this I would adjust back slightly - it might not matter if it’s open a little more though, as long as you can adjust the difference with the idle screw I suppose.
As mentioned you will need to adjust your idle speed.
My car starts a lot quicker now so pleased with the result. Let me know how you get on!
Cheers
I opened up my AAV , modified it so it has more opening.
These are the results :
at 2° Celsius
at 24° Celsius
Closed after 10 minutes of heating via 12V only.
So now, I just need to test it on the car.
I'll keep you informed.
#200
So far all pressures are according to the wsm.
I just need to check my warm control pressure.
As for the fuel delivery output from my FD, there I have an issue: I only get 400cc /30 secs instead of 1120cc.
Could this be the root cause?
#201
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 312
From: Holden Beach and Winston-Salem, North Carolina 82 928 Euro S 5spd MOSS GREEN/CHAMPAGNE-04 996 C4S CONV TIP POLAR SILVER/METROPOL BLUE
Hi Ben, unfortunately not. I am now testing one by one all pressures and Kjet components.
So far all pressures are according to the wsm.
I just need to check my warm control pressure.
As for the fuel delivery output from my FD, there I have an issue: I only get 400cc /30 secs instead of 1120cc.
Could this be the root cause?
So far all pressures are according to the wsm.
I just need to check my warm control pressure.
As for the fuel delivery output from my FD, there I have an issue: I only get 400cc /30 secs instead of 1120cc.
Could this be the root cause?
#202
This controls the system pressure and also the rest holding pressure
But this has been renewed together with the FD.
System pressure is 5,3 bar (76 psi) and rest pressures are 2.7, 2.6 and 2.5 bar after 10, 20 and 30 minutes…so all good.
#205
#207
#209
I can check my fuel delivery starting at the output of my WUR, then input of WUR, next output of fuel damper and finally directly on top output of my FD.
This way I know at what point my fuel delivery has been drastically lowered.
The input of my FD has about 1800 ml so I should at least have 1000ml at the outlet of my FD
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Darklands (02-11-2024)
#210
1. version of porsche wsm specs : 0,9 till 1,3 bar @ 20°C
2. version of WUR specs : 1,4 till 1,8 bar @ 20°C
so what is the correct CCP?
Currently I have 0,7 bar @ 11°C….but this would mean according to my WUR 0438.140.036 that I should have 1,1 bar instead.