Hall Sensor bracket placement
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Wayne, PA, USA
Hall Sensor bracket placement
Hopefully an easy question. I've removed my deteriorated hall sensor on my S4 and am installing the new one. On top of the new hall sensor goes the original connector bracket, however I am unsure how the hall sensor cable and connector sit in the bracket. Anyone have a picture of how a new one should sit in the bracket?
Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 606
Likes: 250
From: Montreal, CA,
When i did mine i was searching and i find this post, have some nice pictures about, post #4 and #13
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-sluggish.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-sluggish.html
Last edited by dimi5928; Sep 1, 2020 at 06:51 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,235
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From: Philly PA
note in the link provided,
the hall sensor is an old style with a longer lead,
the new style has a shorter lead,
so the open end on the new sensor must face up.
the harness routs over the top of the cam housing not under it like the original did
the hall sensor is an old style with a longer lead,
the new style has a shorter lead,
so the open end on the new sensor must face up.
the harness routs over the top of the cam housing not under it like the original did
Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 606
Likes: 250
From: Montreal, CA,
Yup, i notice on post #10 at 2nd picture.
Last edited by dimi5928; Sep 1, 2020 at 06:59 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Wayne, PA, USA
Very helpful. So the connector attached to the hall sensor sits in the bracket prongs up. The engine harness comes up and over the cam cover to the multi-pin connector. The hall Sensor Connector from the engine harness connects downward on the hall connector in the bracket.
do I have that right?
do I have that right?
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I need one of those brackets for the Hall sensor.
Can anyone tell the part number, or where I can buy one please?
Can anyone tell the part number, or where I can buy one please?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Wayne, PA, USA
Actually It was not to bad for me, as I followed Dave C's (WORF) approach. I sprayed the bolts first with some Kroil and let it sit overnight. Added another fresh spray when I was planning to do the actual job. I had ordered a 4mm hex socket - long shaft and ball end to use as my weapon of choice. I got a toothpick and cleaned out the bolt heads as well to get out any dirt. I started to use the socket and wrench on the top bolt, but did so gently. With pressure on the bolt, I also got a long screwdriver and mallet, and just tapped the top of the screw, hoping that the combination of Kroil, pressure from the socket and vibrations from the tapping would loosen the threads. After a little more gentle pressure on the socket, i heard a snap and the bolt unscrewed in one piece. I performed the same process (with limited mallet tapping) on the bottom screw from underneath the car.