jwbeck17

Hopefully an easy question. I've removed my deteriorated hall sensor on my S4 and am installing the new one. On top of the new hall sensor goes the original connector bracket, however I am unsure how the hall sensor cable and connector sit in the bracket. Anyone have a picture of how a new one should sit in the bracket?

Mrmerlin

the open end of the sensor connector faces up it should slide into the fingers then the spring clamp holds it in place

dimi5928

When i did mine i was searching and i find this post, have some nice pictures about, post #4 and #13
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-sluggish.html

Mrmerlin

note in the link provided,
the hall sensor is an old style with a longer lead,
the new style has a shorter lead,
so the open end on the new sensor must face up.
the harness routs over the top of the cam housing not under it like the original did

dimi5928

Yup, i notice on post #10 at 2nd picture.

jwbeck17

Very helpful. So the connector attached to the hall sensor sits in the bracket prongs up. The engine harness comes up and over the cam cover to the multi-pin connector. The hall Sensor Connector from the engine harness connects downward on the hall connector in the bracket.

do I have that right?

Mrmerlin

yes you have it right

Richard S

Here's a new Hall Sensor on my 87-S4, view is looking up slightly. It's on an engine stand, so if you need more pics let me know.



Rich

jwbeck17

That pic is perfect. Very helpful, thank you.

ramcram

I need one of those brackets for the Hall sensor.
Can anyone tell the part number, or where I can buy one please?

1979928

Tony

i gave up trying to get those bolts out...

Rob Edwards

Part number for the cover is 928 606 180 01. Ostensibly still available from Porsche for ~$15 or so.

jwbeck17

Actually It was not to bad for me, as I followed Dave C's (WORF) approach. I sprayed the bolts first with some Kroil and let it sit overnight. Added another fresh spray when I was planning to do the actual job. I had ordered a 4mm hex socket - long shaft and ball end to use as my weapon of choice. I got a toothpick and cleaned out the bolt heads as well to get out any dirt. I started to use the socket and wrench on the top bolt, but did so gently. With pressure on the bolt, I also got a long screwdriver and mallet, and just tapped the top of the screw, hoping that the combination of Kroil, pressure from the socket and vibrations from the tapping would loosen the threads. After a little more gentle pressure on the socket, i heard a snap and the bolt unscrewed in one piece. I performed the same process (with limited mallet tapping) on the bottom screw from underneath the car.