There are threads concerning that the washer nozzles are clogged due to rusting metal collars in the path between the washer fluid tank and the windshield nozzles. The real fix is to replace/remove the rusty metal pieces that flake rust into the water, clogging the nozzles. I have another mitigation, if time is short w/r to removing the rusty metal collars. I've added a compact water filter in the path, just below where the water line enters underneath the bonnet. The filter is designed to make cr&ppy water safe for human consumption, which more than fills the task of removing rusty bits from the windshield water. The filter is shown below:


The installed filter is shown below:



The filter is a miniature drinking water filter, "Sawyer Products SP128" filter. I can make no recommendation as concerns the purity of drinking water it produces, but I think its fine for the use as described here. Obviously, if the filter fills up with rust, however unlikely, then just replace the filter.

 

This is a cool idea. I recently had an issue, but ended up replacing the driver side nozzle and the line valves.

 

to note: I replaced BOTH my nozzles with new ones ($90), plus line valves And hoses and of course the new nozzles clogged as well.

 

So the challenge starts with water with minerals, and continues with steel check-valves in the hood so we can have two washer systems feed common nozzles.

There are plastic check valves available for services in aquariums and hydroponic gardening systems. Many have decided that the dual-fluid system is more trouble than it's worth, and just take the check valves out and block the high-intensity washer system plumbing.


Last but not least, don't be afraid to use commercial fluid that's made with soft or demineralized water. It's cheap, like few dollars a gallon, and solves the mineral deposits in the nozzles problem.


There's s steel sleeve where the filler neck connects to the reservoir. It rusts too. The filler neck is NLA last I looked, but I think there are or will be some 3D-printed replacements available. Fun stuff!

 

The filler neck is NLA. I did ping Porsche Classic about it for a production run... not sure if they will have it anytime soon.

The plastic valves are a clever fix to the rusting Dr. Bob.

One of the tricks I resort to on my cars (which hardly ever get to use the windshield nozzle is to clean them with a needle ever once in a while... I do that to all out cars actually to remove clogging (even though I always use the gallons of washer mix).

 

I tried the needle trick, but can only reach a couple mm's into the nozzle. There seems to be a right-angle turn, certainly the needle is smaller than the channel. Can you provide any further details on this?

Also has anybody replaced the nozzle; mine are heated and I haven't opened it up enough to see where the electrical wire connects. Is that a pain in the neck to complete? Perhaps applying a butt splice to the two wires??