Thanks all
Yesterday I examined the (red) door lights. Yes they stay on when both doors are closed. One bulb was corroded which is now clean.
So there is one wire from the button in the A pillar (brown/white) and two wires to the bulb on the door. How does the work. What causes the problem. Is it a bad ground in the door?
Another issue is my interior lights work if manually switched on or off but will not work via the button. They did at one time. I have replaced the relay.

Years ago I the rear hatch motor went nuts and I could not get it to go off. The first thing I did was pull the fuse out. Now it's disconnected at the receiver.

 

That’s about the time my glove box light took to kill the battery.

When I was tracking another drain, couldn’t find anything at the electrical panel, issue was in the alternator, a new one fixed it right up, but it was a large drain and killed the battery in a few days.

 

I have one of GB's trick high output alternators so I don't think this is the issue. Now on the charger it will be interesting to see how much it drops in the next few days.
The lack of traffic has been 928 heaven.

 

Good job, Vanster.
Dave

 

By not work with the button, do they not turn on or not turn off?
The door buttons go to ground, which completes the circuit. As others have said, disconnect the hatch switch first, see if the red door lights go out. They are not switched, and will always come on whether the rest of the interior lights are switched on or not.
On the older cars like mine, there is no relay and the door switches directly complete the light circuit. With the relay, I would pull the relay next and see if the red lights then go out.

 

Please define 'will not work via the button'.

Won't turn off?

The way the interior lights are wired is a bit counterintuitive.
The red lights are part of the circuit.

The lights have constant power going to them.
There is a constant ground that lets the manual switch turn them on.
There is a switched ground that goes to the door & hatch switches. That switched ground closes the circuit for when the lights are on the 'door' position.

It sounds like one of the switches is stuck closed, so your interior lights are always on. The 'white' interior lights can be switched to 'off' manually, but the little red door lights cannot.

I think you can get the door switches out fairly easily. The hatch switch is built into the hatch receiver, and can be unplugged there.

Those switches are where I would look first, if it were me.

 

With the door bulbs removed the battery has not declined within 24 hours. So now to the hatch. Thanks Joe

 

NOTE that if the door bulbs are on with the doors closed then something is triggering the relay to turn on the lights and keep them on.
NOTE the bulbs are only part of the circuit that is using power, removing them does not equal all the power being turned off
the relay on the CE panel will get hot with the door open or the red lamps being triggered,
this will be easy to find with the IR gun as has also been suggested

I advised to disconnect the hatch switch so you could see if the lights go out with the windows down and the doors closed.
It would also be smart to remove each door pin switch and clean them and add deoxit 100 to them .

Also remove every interior lamp on the roof and hatch and see if they are all wired correctly.
NOTE disconnect the battery first

 

One thing I caught on my 944S was the relay that allows the window to go up and down with the door closed but key off was still on all the time. Faulty driver's door switch, even after I opened the driver's door it would not trigger. This was even tougher to find because I would open and close the passenger door while testing which of course would drop out the relay.

Little fun quirks.

 

I'm going to follow Stan's advice to the letter. Back soon

 

This is really frustrating. The grounding of the door buttons must be OK for the chime will go off when depressed on either door. I pulled out the head liner, windshield and hatch fixtures. Inspected all of them no none of them work.
Here is a diagram on how they are wired.

 

Van the door pin switch is grounded when the button pops out ,
when its in the circuit is broken.
Make sure the wire to each switch is tight some of these were just crimped and they can get loose
It would be smart to remove each switch to see the contacts and deoxit them
look at the hatch switch as well did you disconnect the hatch switch
These can short to ground
For the lights open the CE panel and look at the connectors along the bottom row
IIRC the last connector to the right is for the roof lamps see if the wires are plugged in and that no charred wires are present.
Also check the interior light fuse

 

Where is the hatch switch? Everything is clean (deoxit) and tight. No obvious breaks or corrosion.

 

Hatch switch is at the bottom of the hatch receiver (bottom of the hatch opening) access when the tool cover is removed.
Also, looking at your wiring diagrams, the brown and the brown/white wires should be on the end with the two terminals (same end as the switch). The power comes in on the end with one terminal. The switch selects the ground path from the light, either brown(direct to ground) or brown/white (grounded through the door pins when door or hatch is open).
The windshield switch appears to be miss-wired.
Also, check wiring of the lights in the doors.
By the way, you have been asked three times (twice by me, once by Joe) to give more info about your problem, define what “not working” means, and have still not given out more info.
This would be less frustrating for you if you would read and reply to those of us that are trying to help you.
Just saying.......

 

Just looked at a wiring diagram for 86, unlike my earlier cars, the diagram says the hatch switch is in the trunk lid (hatch)?
I may has been wrong about the location on the later cars....