82EUROATM

I was told to stay away from them because once you start playing with each cylinder it’s almost impossible to get them right again unless you have that machine to see each cylinder at once.
well I went to start it in the rain and it didn’t start but I think it’s because I played around with wur.

jpitman2

The solenoid with 2 wires to a sensor is the half hot control lowering circuit - should not be relevant to your current problem. As I understand it, the injector you mention is part of a system like KE , where a control box looks at output from an O2 sensor, and modifies control pressure downwards by pulsing the injector to flow fuel into the return line. If you pull the leads to the injector it will be irrelevant. You need to get system up to 65-75 psi to be healthy, and then control low enough to start cold, and peak at ~45 psi fully hot. THEN you might adjust the mixture at the FD.
jp 83 Euro S AT57k

gbgastowers

that is good. The adjustable one will never work for the average guy. It is important to make sure all CIS components in the car are the correct original part numbers for that car. I had years long issues with smooth running/low power that were corrected when I got the correct fuel distributor and got rid of the Mercedes adjustable that had found its way on the car I bought I also got a huge improvement with starting the engine issues when I bought the correct WUR spec for the car from an Australian rebuilder. I sent him all the old WURs I had for credit. I had about 9 that came with the car as extras.

82EUROATM

So if the ke injector is singing and humming it’s pulling pressure from the return line causing low psi. I was under the impression if the injector is making noise it’s holding pressure

dr bob

For those playing along at home, the control pressure is managed by the warm-up regulator unit by bleeding fuel back to the tank. The metering unit depends on control pressure to bias the action of airflow on fuel flow to the cylinders. True KE-jetronic tosses the warm-up-regulator, and pulses a solenoid valve that looks amazing like a common injector to control bypass flow back to the tank. In the OP's (and too many other) gray-market 'conversion' car, the solenoid valve is placed in series with the WUR further modulate flow to the tank. Control pressure can be raised (leaner) by closing the valve part of the time. Leaving it closed or disconnected will leave control pressure at system pressure, with the mixture too lean to support starting.

Possible causes of that low primary pressure:
-- not enough fuel pump capability
-- sticking or poorly-adjusted fuel pressure regulator
-- leak between the upper and lower chambers (primary fuel over control pressure) in the fuel distributor.

The gauge "set" (really just one gauge) ties into the control pressure side of the fuel distributor at the warm-up regulator inlet, and in series with the fuel return line between the warm-up regulator outlet-return and the return line connection to the tank at the FD. The gauge shows control pressure upstream of the WUR until the valve between the WUR outlet and the return line to the tank is closed. At that point, the gauge reads primary pressure in the system.

The top of the FD unit is sealed by a thin metal gasket. No gasket compound or anything else is used on the metal gasket. The mating faces of the FD are precision honed and matched, and seal dry with just the thin metal gasket sandwiched between them. Likewise, each control piston and actuator pin are matched to the unit. Don't scrape, scratch, dent, pry, wedge or otherwise damage or even leave thick fingerprints on those pieces.

82EUROATM

It’s raining today so I couldn’t go out and play but will be out there tomorrow. Will attach gauges and see what it get because yesterday when I got it to run for a few minutes the gauge read zero with the line open. The only part I haven’t replaced is the FPR & the WUR. I believe the FPR is #13 in the pic below.

dr bob

FPR is the little screw-and-spring-plunger that Pete showed in his pictures. It's not a separate item in your diagram. It is pretty much dead-center in your fuel-distributor picture, by the banjo for the fuel return lines.

82EUROATM

Ok I was at it again and was able to get 50 psi with the line open and 45psi closed but still didn’t start. I think I have to check either the pump or the wur.
how can I tell if I have the correct wur in the car.

82EUROATM

Ok I’m back at it again and realized that I might have the wrong WUR in the car.
i called roger to confirm the correct wur for the car and what should be in the car is a 0438140086
whats in the car is 0438140068 the last 2 numbers are different. Would the part that’s in the car work or should I hunt down the correct one.
i can find a rebuild kit for the 86 wur but would it work ?

allan29

Normally for your car ( 928 4,5l Euro 82 ) , the WUR must be a 0 438 140 087 .

4,5l RoW :

allan29

4,5l "USA" :

allan29

And Row 4,7l :

allan29

For me, remove the KA Jetronic ( call K Lambda ) system to be like origin and without "exotic" parts .

dr bob

Great info from allan29 on the correct tuning values. But... the warm-up regulator doesn't affect the system pressure values when you block the return flow with the gauge-set valve. You need the system pressure to be correct. That value is a function of the pump capability and the bypass-style fuel pressure regulator that's in the fuel distributor. Waste no time or money swapping pieces like the WUR, and don't mess with other settings before you figure out why your system pressure is low.

allan29

That right Dr Bob !
If the system pressure is not good , the rest will not be good too !
Test return flow to the tank ( see sheet ) , if it's not good , check fuel filter , dirty tank , voltage on the fuel pump ( minimum 11,5V)
The "frenquency valve of your "exotic" K Lambda can cause problem too , like the hot start actuator !