I have been trying to get my driver's side upper bellhousing bolt off but it looks like one of the PO's was trying to get in there before me and rounded the bolt pretty good. As a result my usual way of getting it off (with a long 19mm flexhead gearwrench) doesn't work as the wrench just slips off. I am able to firmly seat a socket on there but if I put a lot of torque on it it just slips off. I even managed to get at it from below with an impact wrench but it won't budge. I tried one of those bolt extractor sockets as well but it won't seem to seat properly. I did a search on Rennlist and I found the thread shown below and tried all of the options presented except the one by Vilheur as he originally had some pictures attached but they are no longer there so I'm not sure what he was referring to.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l-success.html

The only other option I can think of is to maybe get someone to weld a nut on from below while I hold it on from above, but I kind of doubt there's enough room for that to be even possible.

If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them as I am stumped. Thanks!

 

Do you have a 3/4 inch gear wrench
if you can get a 3/4 box on it then use a long pry bar to hold the box on the bolt then use a 22 mm wrench on the 3/4 wrench you will need a helper for this maneuver

 

I think this is the one that Rob Edwards got & Greg Brown liked it enough to get one too it's on amazon, but for some reason it didn't copy


https://www.tekton.com/17-x-19-mm-lo...rench-wrn77113

 

Thanks for the link! I have a similar wrench but I can't even get it on the bolt, probably because it is so mangled. I can get a socket on it though but even that slips off when I apply a lot of torque.

I have tried something similar to what you suggested, with both a gear wrench and a socket, but not with a second person holding the prybar, just myself holding it with one hand and the ratchet with the other. Maybe I can convince my wife to be a second pair of hands for a few minutes and hold the prybar as that would give me more control. Thanks for the advice!

 

I got that wrench and its amazing how well it works.
with the bolt head rounded off you might need a slightly smaller size ,
and use a pry bar to hold the end on the bolt head..
NOTE if you have a Mapp gas torch try heating the block area where the bolt threads in this should make it easier to loosen
NOTE dont try this if you have opened any fuel lines as errant fuel that spilled into the end of the V can go up with a poof
NOTE the block must be drained of coolant before you attempt to heat it

 

I think that long ratcheting wrench would work very well on the upper transmission mount bolts. Think they're 19mm? I remember having trouble finding combination of handle and socket that would fit the tight space up there.

 

I hate to say it but you could always raise the car off the rolling chassis and then you can get to it. Last resort but at least it is an option.

 

Sorry I'm unclear as to what do you mean by that. Disconnect the engine and lift the car?

 

Yeah that's what I have used previously but this bolt is so mangled that I can't get that wrench to seat properly on it.

 

perhaps a photo of the bolt is in order

 

Unhook the engine, rear suspension and transmission. Remove the crossmember under the engine.

Lift the rest of the car up and off.

 

Freeze the bolt. Use a can of air duster turned upside down and spray the bolt until it turns white. (don't touch, and don't even think of going all Christmas Story double-dog-dare on it with your tongue!) Hopefully you can get a wrench on it with enough bite to then break it loose. That is the only thing that worked for me; the head on my bolt was starting to strip, and this worked as a last resort. Good luck!

Rich

 

You could disconnect the suspension and engine connections from the car and lift it off with a two post lift.

You'd end up with something like this (this is a corvette):

 

I guess you could also put an induction heater on the bolt and heat it up. Let it cool then freeze it. Perhaps that could break any bond. You can get the plumber's liquid nitrogen they use to freeze water mains where there isn't a valve present.

 

What is the reason for the need to remove the bell housing?

Is it necessary to do it now, or can the work wait for a later, more opportune time?