whale driver

The following are the steps that were required to solve my stuck rear hatch. In the end, each exercised step was not really required, if I had just noticed the uneven gap between the hatch and the left and right rear fenders. Initially, the driver's pull switch didn't work. Fuse#26 checked good on fuse boards fuse check slot. Did I have a burned out latch motor? I climbed in the back to remove the tool board for latch motor access and found that not only was the driver's switch lead disconnected but the lock spring was fully compressed. After reconnecting the loose lead I pulled the driver's release switch and the hatch unlocked! This proved that I had power to an operating motor and now allowed me to visually check the latch mechanism when I actuated the switch. Considering that the latch spring was completely compressed when it stucked closed, I followed a forum member' suggestion to lower the motor position adjustment a fraction of an inch and observed normal latch function. Now I thought I had solved the issue so I closed the hatch to check its operation. Unfortunately, operating the driver's switch failed to open the hatch. Another forum member suggested jiggling lighting relay. Without access to a wiring diagram, I questioned the relationship between lighting and hatch locking mechanism? Another forum member provided the electrical diagram and it showed that the power was routed from the #24 fuse via the driver's side switch. I checked the 7.5 amp fuse and it was blown. I inserted another fuse and it immediately blew. Puzzled, how was I going to get the hatch open? In desperation I inserted a 15 amp fuse and when I actuated the release switch, I heard a straining motor and then a loud click as the hatch opened. I questioned, now that I know everything is operating, why do I still have a stuck hatch issue? I closely lowered the hatch just enough to see how the lock tongue was entering the base opening and discovered that it was offset. I then loosened the base opening hoping to move it sideways but discovered it was a non adjustable fixed position. That is when I decided to check the side gap alignment of the hatch vs. the fenders. The gap between the hatch side and the left fender was about an 1/8-3/16 inch wider than the right fender gap which was close to matching the latch misalignment causing jamming of the mechanism when the hatch was forced closed. All that work just to find out that I need to adjust the hatch vs fender gap! hope this explaination helps others diagnose a stuck hatch issue. Now I have to learn how to align my hatch.

lock spring loaded receptacle

lock tongue

right side

left side

Wisconsin Joe

#1 - The hatch operation goes through the interior lights so that they have to be lit for the hatch release to work. It helps keep stupid people from opening the hatch at 100 mph.

#2 - Be very careful 'over-amping' a fuse. If the specified size blows, there's a reason for it. Putting a bigger fuse in doesn't solve that problem and may overheat the wiring.

whale driver

Interesting to discover why the hatch lock is wired through the interior light circuit.
I am cautious about "over amping". After I was able to open the hatch with the higher amp fuse, I immediately replaced it with the designed circuit 7.5 amp.

Wisconsin Joe

I don't know for certain that that's the reason, but it's how it was explained to me and it makes a lot of sense.
My 97 Blazer (manual trans) had to have the parking brake applied for the dash button to open the rear glass.
Auto trans models had to be in park.
Similar logic, I would think.

You had mentioned that the motor sounded 'strained'.
One thing to remember is that an electric motor will pull as much power as needed to turn itself. If it's old & gummed up, it will put a lot more power. If it is held in place and 'stalls out', it will pull a huge amount of power. Depending on the condition of the motor, it can pull enough to blow the correct fuse.