Help! Oil Pressure connector cap
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From: Double Oak, TX
Help! Oil Pressure connector cap
Hi All,
There are three wires that go into the cap that locates over the three pins on top of the oil pressure sensor. I am pretty sure that is what it is. It is next to the oil filter and the oil drain plug.
One of the wires (brown/red) has sheared of right at the point were it enters the plastic cap. The cap does not appear to be serviceable and I can't see where the three wires go to as they disappear up into the engine area.
Is this part of the harness? Can I replace this part of the harness?
Is the cap serviceable in any way so I can reattach the wire.
I assume the car is drivable as I need to pull it back into the garage.
Any help would be well received.
Best,
Roger
There are three wires that go into the cap that locates over the three pins on top of the oil pressure sensor. I am pretty sure that is what it is. It is next to the oil filter and the oil drain plug.
One of the wires (brown/red) has sheared of right at the point were it enters the plastic cap. The cap does not appear to be serviceable and I can't see where the three wires go to as they disappear up into the engine area.
Is this part of the harness? Can I replace this part of the harness?
Is the cap serviceable in any way so I can reattach the wire.
I assume the car is drivable as I need to pull it back into the garage.
Any help would be well received.
Best,
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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From: Nova Scotia
I can't be of any direct assistance, as the oil pressure transducer changed to a 3 wire (from 2) in MY '89 on: however, the wire connections on the previous sensors were via threaded brass studs/7mm retaining nuts, or push on spades.
As this wiring has to be detached to service either the transducer or the alternator, I'd guess that any cap is for weather sealing and would be detachable to allow access to wire connections within: I'd try to remove the cap and repair the lead. (the sensor/transducer threads in, so the harness must detach at some point).
As this wiring has to be detached to service either the transducer or the alternator, I'd guess that any cap is for weather sealing and would be detachable to allow access to wire connections within: I'd try to remove the cap and repair the lead. (the sensor/transducer threads in, so the harness must detach at some point).
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From: Double Oak, TX
Garth,
Thanks for the support.
The cap is removable (round, plastic with three female connector recepticles).
My problem is that the cap cannot be dismantled and the wire has sheared at the exact point of entry into the cap. There is no wire left protruding from the cap for me to attach anything to.
If there was a small amount of wire I could make a repair - theres nothing.
I am thinking about cutting open the cap - nothing to lose - and going from there.
On Monday I will see if I can buy that part of the harness. I would then remove the cap with ample wire and re attach to my existing harness.
Roger
Thanks for the support.
The cap is removable (round, plastic with three female connector recepticles).
My problem is that the cap cannot be dismantled and the wire has sheared at the exact point of entry into the cap. There is no wire left protruding from the cap for me to attach anything to.
If there was a small amount of wire I could make a repair - theres nothing.
I am thinking about cutting open the cap - nothing to lose - and going from there.
On Monday I will see if I can buy that part of the harness. I would then remove the cap with ample wire and re attach to my existing harness.
Roger
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From: Nova Scotia
`Roger,
While a picture would be better, I'm starting 'to see the picture'.
With many electrical connectors, the female portions are retained in the socket (cap, in this case) via a spring clip: sliding a very thin blade between the plastic and brass will often release the connector, at which point the wire can be threaded thru the back side and recrimped/soldered to the female connector - then drawn back into its' slot.
If the connector did not release this way, a minor surgery with a Dremel cutting wheel (or tool of choice) should get you there. You can 'close' the surgery with almost anything non conductive - potting compound/epoxy/electrical tape.
- might not be a bad idea to disconnect the battery ground strap before scrubbing up!
While a picture would be better, I'm starting 'to see the picture'.
With many electrical connectors, the female portions are retained in the socket (cap, in this case) via a spring clip: sliding a very thin blade between the plastic and brass will often release the connector, at which point the wire can be threaded thru the back side and recrimped/soldered to the female connector - then drawn back into its' slot.
If the connector did not release this way, a minor surgery with a Dremel cutting wheel (or tool of choice) should get you there. You can 'close' the surgery with almost anything non conductive - potting compound/epoxy/electrical tape.
- might not be a bad idea to disconnect the battery ground strap before scrubbing up!
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From: Double Oak, TX
Garth,
The surgery worked!
Where the three wires enter the cap is a solid piece of plastic. I "whittled" away the plastic around the offending wire and managed to set free about 3/8" of wire.
I attached a new piece of wire by soldering and crimping a connector.
Re attached all three wires to the harness using the same process and covered everything with heat shrink (individual connections as well as the whole group of three wires.
Looks good and works a treat.
I am still going to research replacement of the cap/harness.
Best,
Roger
The surgery worked!
Where the three wires enter the cap is a solid piece of plastic. I "whittled" away the plastic around the offending wire and managed to set free about 3/8" of wire.
I attached a new piece of wire by soldering and crimping a connector.
Re attached all three wires to the harness using the same process and covered everything with heat shrink (individual connections as well as the whole group of three wires.
Looks good and works a treat.
I am still going to research replacement of the cap/harness.
Best,
Roger
