Ckid please answer these questions,
have you replaced the
XVI fuel injection relay with part number 928 615 119 01?

Have you replaced the fuel pump relay XVII with 928 615 113 01?

NOTE before you swap in new relays unplug the WUR and the aux air valve harnesses ,
turn the key to run and see if they both have 12V
Its possible you could have a temp sensor harness plugged into one of these units

NOTE temp sensors run at 5 volts ,
if so the temp sensor has probably been burned up if a 12 v connector was plugged into it

 

hi stan-i have ordered the correct f i relay (928-615-119-01) from pelican pts. ETA to Cincinnati is 2 april. i have not ordered the fuel pump relay, as once i replaced the pump and filter, everything seemed to be in order.
i shall order the f p relay today- 928 615 113 01. aye aye, sir...

 

is there any difference between 928 615 113 01 vs 928 615 113 03?

 

Here is your relay and fuse chart for a 1982 car:

https://www.928gt.com/t-82fuse.aspx

Not sure that the aforementioned recommended relays are correct, at least one differs from the chart at 928GT (which has been severely scrutinized over time). But it may just be an equivalent. Whatever.

Anyway, while you wait, have you considered jumping your “suspect” relay(s)? Just a thought. And while I haven’t studied your relay / fuse chart, there may be a spare relay in a nonessential spot that you could swap in to those you are unsure about.

All injectors being clogged after car sits for years? I suppose it is a remote possibility. Just remote. But there was another No Start car on Rennlist whose saga went on and on, and then the owner sent the injectors off for cleaning and Voila! But again IMO it’s remote.

Good luck!

 

Well, John,
The noid light suggests that several things are working. Blinking means the L-jet ECU is switching the injectors off and on, so it has a signal from the AFC relay. Won't hurt to replace the FP and AFC relays, but probably not the problem, but maybe. Also your grounds mentioned are at least good enough to fire the injectors. That leaves me thinking either poor fuel pressure or flow due to a compromised fuel pump, or the Temp 2 sensor may be out of spec. Temp 2 (Temp II) is a vertical screw in sensor just behind the cross brace just to the drivers side of midline on the top of the engine block. There are resistance specs for the sensor. The workshop manuals are available in a number of places online, and are really helpful for trouble shooting these kinds of things. The Temp 2 sensor measure engine coolant temp and modifies the fuel delivery. If it is not connected or the sensor, connector or harness are broken (open circuit) the engine will not fire.
One other thing to try would be to hold the ignition key in the start position for say 10 seconds after the engine starts. If the car runs 10 seconds longer than ever before, there may be a switching problem in the starter.
Good lcuk,
Dave

 

AFAIK, the last digit going from a 0 to a 1 or from a 1 to a 2 etc... indicates that the relay is a newer version of that relay that was used in later model year produced cars. I’ve read that any of them should work for a given purpose but I don’t know that for a fact, and for all I know there may be weird things associated with doing that in some instances. So in general, it’s best to use the relay recommended for your MY, if possible.

 

Pelican is a good supplier but with no more 928 experience than autozone. Use 928sRus else 928 Intl, else 928 motorsports or 928 specialists. Those 4 have the knowledge and can walk you through the parts numbers to prevent confusion. First two in particular do a lot of volume.