boxes. Thank you , Would the car run better or same . Just curious

 

Like Stan, I've had a couple show up just like that and the wires were not attached to anything on the car. Removed the excess junk and everything was fine.

 

It wasn't on my Porsche, but my grey market '84 MB 500SEC had a box wired to a set of O2 sensors that were wired in parallel, and it's only output was a vacuum solenoid to control the air from an AC-Delco air injection pump that they'd welded brackets for on top of the alternator bracket.
It all "fell off" when I replaced the seized engine with another euro spec engine.

 

Might get better mileage?

If the system was a legit install there would also be an O2 sensor and cat(s) installed too. This would enable a Lambda/O2 loop by modulating the CIS control pressure.

Here is a more modern version, a programmable Warm-Up-Regulator - https://unwiredtools.com/mh_porsche_928_utcis-v.shtml

 

One thing I missed before: Idaho has smog laws. Every state does. The overall federal rules apply and every state has similar/parallel laws in place. They may not inspect the car, they may not strictly enforce them, but the laws are in place. However, I wouldn't worry about it with this car.

As Sean noted, sometimes the boxes aren't actually hooked up. I have an 85 Euro that has a charcoal canister in place (Evap can) that isn't hooked to anything. Just hoses running towards the motor so it looks good. The 'federalization' modifications varied widely, depending on who did the work and who inspected it.

I would guess that your lambda boxes were originally connected and working, based on the Cali certification. That is one place where the inspection included full testing to ensure compliance. Both at initial certification and ongoing to renew the plates. However, once it left there, the stuff may have been disconnected... Or not.

I can't see colors worth a crap on your pics/my monitor. Are the seats, dash, console, ect sort of an "Olive Drab" green, dark green like "army green"? And grey carpeting? If so, that's a 'Grey/Green' interior. Not super common, but not unknown. What's the exterior color?

There should be a sticker on the driver's door jamb with both the exterior color (name & code) and the interior color code. There should also be a sticker from the importer. Most of those places are long gone, but you may get lucky.

Also, you can post your VIN in the "Official VIN Check" sticky thread at the top of the forum. A few of the guys have access to options data. They can tell you where the car was originally delivered and what it came with.

 

Rodger that. , yeah we don’t enforce the smog law . I don’t think I’ve ever seen a smog station . They may have one in Boise. But have not seen one . The entire interior carpet , seats dash are all of green . When I first saw it I thought eww . But it kinda grew on me. The color is light bronze metallic code r6

 

As others suggest, -IF- you decide to remove, be sure to carefully document the original connections. Absolutely and religiously harvest any/all the stickers and compliance details if you feel you must take them off. Nice dry-climate Cali and Az cars will outlast others, and may someday want to find their way out of Idaho. Having the ability to bring the car back to whatever compliance status they met and passed with will dramatically affect where and how the car can be re-imported to those and thirty-three give-or-take other states that have such laws still in effect. If the Lambda system is no longer functioning, you'll probably want to replace the catalysts with a resonator, else risk damaging/destroying the core in it with the typically-rich CIS exhaust. Note that a properly installed and tuned Lambda system will improve fuel economy by 10% or so typically, especially in not-high-load driving. Were it mine, I'd be much more tempted to make it all work rather than just yanking stuff out. Were it mine.

Being a former ex has-been used-to-be California resident with almost 50 years there, I'll share that getting a non-native car like yours serviced could be a real challenge, especially in the age of the CARB and BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repair division of the state Consumer Affairs department...) regulation. Draconian interpretations of state and regional smog and compliance regulations were used to punish shops who allowed a car to pass out the door not in full compliance. Biannual smog testing in populated counties there means that the federalization process used on your car gets inspected and tested, and any failures get reported to the mother-ship in Sacramento. Getting on that scofflaw list can be the kiss of death for current and any future owners of any failed-previously car, even if everything is restored to full compliance. Tailpipe testing follows passing a visual verification of compliance. Without admitting guilt yer onnner, I can say that more than a casual amount of compliance documentation has been "discovered" to back up a botched or incomplete original certification exercise. Many shops did a paper-only conversion, generating paper for the DOT and local DMV, and green paper for the "inspector" to store for them. Making newly-discovered versions of the original stuff can make it look like what is in the car now is what was done then. You still need basic high-visibility stuff like vapor canisters and air pumps, bit those are easy to fit and do nothing to detract from performance. It's only when you get to revised distributor curves and vacuum delay valves that performance can be affected, and those specific things are the easiest things to do wrong or cheat on. The lambda boxes, when installed and wired correctly, do nothing to adversely affect performance. Choice of catalyst does however, with the safest and lowest-impact option being a factory cat. Also the least-likely conversion choice because of the cost. Bottom line is that you should seriously consider how and how much you want to change what's there, especially if it's intact and close to working.