Ok, this is more me ranting about this problem than anything else. When I got the car, the driver's rear view mirror was broken and replaced with a stick-on. Fine, I replaced it, but found that the mirror controls didn't work right. Specifically it would go left and right on passenger and driver mirrors, and down, but never up. I would hear the "click" as the solenoids engaged but no up.

Sometimes it would work for awhile then stop. Thought it was the joystick and replaced it. Still same problem. Took the door apart and found that the green wire from the joystick had melted along its length, replaced that. Then found a new symptom: When I finally fixed the defroster and would turn it on very strange things happened. The driver's door mirrors and passenger ones would behave differently with the defroster on, and if I went in one particular direction it would blow the mirror fuse.

Realized the problem was that one of the heated mirrors had shorted long ago and probably melted wires in the car. Cut the grey wire at the door to car plug and it no longer blows fuses, but the mirrors work differently. Took everything apart today to figure it out, and it looks like an intermittent short either in the door loom (which I don't see) or the car loom (which would really suck). Oddest problem is that the grey wire is supposed to carry power to the mirrors, and even with it cut on the driver's side the odd behavior still appears although it does not blow fuses.

Yes, this is insane. Right now the car still has the panel off (I have to reglue the leather and clean some stuff up), the window won't go up and down (stuck door motor, different problem) and life is in general annoying. But at least the mirrors now work properly in all directions.

I think the issue is a short in the motor circuit. The joystick gets power and ground from the two end pins (1 and 2) and runs the motor with a dpdt switch on pins 3 and 5. Pin 3 then goes to the common of the changeover switch with the switched lead providing return to either the driver or passenger motors. One error in the diagram is that it shows output of 3 going both to the switch and to the driver's motor which of course is impossible and may be a "if there is no passenger motor and changeover switch always drive the driver's motor. However in any event the system puts +12 and ground on the side of the motor and drives it forward and reverse.

The trick part is how do you go up and down? Well for that there is pins 3 and 4. 4 just goes to 2 which is battery neutal, and 3 is switched to "up and down" on the joystick. These then power a clutch that attaches the motor to the up/down gear set instead of the default left/right gears. So if you want to go up you run the motor *and* engage the clutch. Want to go down, run the motor reversed and engage the clutch. Want to go left? Engage the motor. Right? Engage the motor reversed (or something like that).

In my case I think the heater line is somehow bleeding into the motor or the clutch. Thus when I want to go left or right it's fine. Down engages the clutch and the motor in one direction and up is engage the clutch and run the motor reversed. Except when "up" and clutch enabled power is bleeding into the motor so the "up" command does nothing. Which is really weird. And when I turn on defrost there is +12 on some line which totally screws things up.

I'll do a truth table tomorrow and see if I can post what happens when. But man it's an odd thing to track down and a real pain in the rear.

C

 

Removed the grey wire and now the mirrors go all directions. Still screwed when the defrost is on, but I'll deal with that for the moment.

The window motor was interesting: Motor was stuck, took it apart, and the magnets were shedding bits into the armature. Which would jam it so it could not start. Fortunately I had kept my passenger motor housing which had a bad rear bearing but good magnets. Took the clips that hold the magnets out, cleaned out the wreckage from the motor, put the good magnets in from the other motor, re-assembled and all is now working.

Finished it off with some DAP contact cement to secure all the vinyl and put the door back together. Takes forever, but at least now everything works and I shouldn't have to take it apart for a while.