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You are lucky to live in LA
Two places you need go and work with.
1) 928 International (Anaheim)
2) Stop by and talk to Greg Brown in Orange. He will lay out a game plan for you.
This is a repeating theme here. Man uncovers barn find. Man starts renovation. Man loses interest, man sells car in pieces, and boxes of new parts.
I want to see this car back on the road like everyone. It's a matter of time and money as most things devolve to in the end. As noted, make a plan. Segregate the whole job into logical sections. Work, play, work, play. Complete each segment then move on. Don't get in a rush to get it cranked up and moving, or we may find it smashed into something due to faulty brakes, or another carbeque. Here's my basic outline before you even start the engine;
It was certified, registered in CA in the late 90’s and driven into the 00’s. Then, I believe it was registered in 2007 as planned non-op. Would that affect the certification? I’ll take a photo of the engine ASAP and share.
I don't think so. I'm not there, and the only stuff I know about Cali rules is what I've come across on here.
I do know a fair amount about the old 'federalization' process and 'grey market' imports. My 85 is a Euro S2, so I've done a bit of homework to find out what the process was, how the car was changed, all that.
My understanding is that it was a long and involved process to certify a Euro import in Cali.
If the car had been imported in a 'less restrictive' state (all of them back then), then it would have to go through the entire process in Cali.
However, if it has the BAR sticker that it should have, certifying that it meets Cali rules and can be registered there, then you should be good to go.
I would strongly suggest doing your own research on this, understanding both the certification process (sticker) from back then and the current inspection protocol. You want to have all your 'ducks in a row' before you try to get it inspected & registered. The fact that it was 'non-op'd' back then is a big plus. Back registration in Cali can be a killer for getting a car back out on the road.
It sounds like you have a 'clean paperwork' car. That is a huge step forward for you. If you didn't have the ability to register the car, any work you might do would be for nothing.
Again, no personal experience in any of this. Not an expert, didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn last night. No warranty express or implied. Contains flammable gas under pressure.
You can always get a car registered even in CA. I'm building a car at the moment (piece by piece) that has a similar problem. It has no history other than a lien that was paid off. Florida car for it had plates and had not been registered in 24 years. I did go to DMV and they made record of it and changed me $225. But no title to date. When I finish it I will go through the drill again most likely have to post a bond. OR I could do an LLC in Montana. Always options.
The big question here is
Was it ever registered in the US ( Federalized ) ??????
If it was, when was the last time it was registered.
You can always get a car registered even in CA. I'm building a car at the moment (piece by piece) that has a similar problem. It has no history other than a lien that was paid off. Florida car for it had plates and had not been registered in 24 years. I did go to DMV and they made record of it and changed me $225. But no title to date. When I finish it I will go through the drill again most likely have to post a bond. OR I could do an LLC in Montana. Always options.
The big question here is
Was it ever registered in the US ( Federalized ) ??????
If it was, when was the last time it was registered.
Curious minds want to know
Yes, it was registered in CA most recently (Operational in CA then, in 2007, as "planned non-op") and the title includes "Non-USA" on it.
Sweet! That's a very rare bird around these parts.
Make sure you download the PET (parts catalog) from the UK Porsche Classic site. The US version doesn't have the M28.21/22 engine-specific pages in it.
A CARB certified twin dizzy 86.5 is pretty much the rarest of the rare. Would be surprised if two hands were needed to count the number that actually exist today so it's one of the very few cars it might actually make financial sense as a full on restore. Looking forward to watching this project progress!
Hi Everyone! Just got my hands on a 1986.5 928s that hasn't been started in 10 years. It was a European model that made it's way to Saudi Arabia before ending up on the East Coast USA and, most recently, to San Francisco and Los Angeles. Any info and advice is appreciated. I plan to flush and replace all fluids, replace battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel strainer, rubber fuel lines and vacuum lines, timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, distributor/rotor, all belts and other filters. Rats ate part of the electrical wiring so I'll have to figure that out. Read that I should refurb injectors and brakes. Is there a place I should start to see if I get lucky and get this thing to turn over? Also, any help with parts is appreciated. I reached out to Roger at 928srus and I'm waiting to hear back.
Nice ride! I would love to have one in that color. Let me know if you ever decide to let it go as it would go nicely with my 86 Euro 32V!
Can you post a picture of the engine? If it's a ROW model it could easily have the 310hp twin-distributor M28.22 engine instead of just being an 86.5 S3
Sorry for the lag. Here are the engine bay photos. I’ve also included photos of obvious rodent damage.
Last edited by wigwampro; 02-25-2020 at 09:48 PM.
Reason: Better Pictures
Step 1 - Take a deep breath
Step 2 - .Purchase the Workshop Manuals
Step 3 - Pull the engine
Step 4 - Start making a parts list and get to know 928 International and 928sRus
Step 5 - Profit (????)
Since this is an automatic, before doing anything to the car, drop the front bell housing plate and check the front flex plate for any forward bowing using a small straight edge. Then mark the location of the clamp on the splines with a paint marker.
Next, remove the front pinch bolt and look for any backward movement of the flex plate and if so, measure how much it moved. Next set up a dial indicator and check the thrust bearing clearance by moving the flywheel/flex plate back and forth to make sure it is within specs.
What you are trying to determine is if your car might have any thrust bearing damage or has suffered thrust bearing failure (TBF).
In this way you can try to ensure a good engine before dumping a bunch of money into it.
If all is good, you should replace the two pinch bolts (front and rear) and get yourself a Ritech clamp for piece of mind into the future.
Assuming the engine is good - I estimate $20k plus two yearsish (Assuming you are planning to do it yourself and not retired! :-) ) to bring to a very respectable driver status. The engine condition looks very similar to my starting point with my last project. You are taking on a big project. Be patient. Have fun.
I've updated the photos of the engine bay, included the engine model # info, and added photos of rodent damage. I can see the spark plug wires for #6, 7, and 8 are gone. The last fuel injector wire is gone, what I think is the power brake vacuum hose from the intake manifold has been almost totally eaten, and there is a lot of damage to the electrical wires on the AC compressor line, oil pressure sensor, mass air flow sensor, crankshaft position sensor, ABS connector and some additional damage to the passenger side electrical underneath the coolant reservoir. All else looks ok. I've also edited the original post as the PO said the car was run monthly until about 2 years ago.
Last edited by wigwampro; 02-26-2020 at 10:53 PM.
Reason: More damage found.
A CARB certified twin dizzy 86.5 is pretty much the rarest of the rare. Would be surprised if two hands were needed to count the number that actually exist today so it's one of the very few cars it might actually make financial sense as a full on restore. Looking forward to watching this project progress!
I’m not familiar with the current or somewhat recent value of these cars. This one is an automatic IIRC. Any idea what the value is in various states (excellent, good, fair, etc...)?
02-18-2020, 01:50 PM
