I just picked up a Map Gas kit from Lowes.
The BernZomatic TS8000.
Sounds like an episode from "Tool Time".
It lists the temp to reach 3700

I have a damaged oil check valve seat in the head that needs to be replaced.



so far I have used;
high output heat gun
propane torch
acetone

In conjunction with all of the above, I have tried to used a bolt to dig into the sides and break the bond.
No Joy.


The ball seat is either pressed in or has a strong Loctite adhesion.

Question.

Can I damage the head with the temp from Map Gas. I have never used one before.

Next step is to the machine shop to have it bored out.

Thanks

 

Short answer: yes.

Longer answer: Yes if you allow the flame to ‘rest’ at any particular spot. Theoretically, it might be possible, but it isn’t something I’d try except as a last resort. A MAPP gas torch heats a small area very quickly to a very high temperature. It’s good for ‘shocking’ bolts and studs.

You need the whole head to be warm. Takes a lot of time. Have you an oven that can be used?


IIRC, the last time I did this (about 10 years ago) I allowed my heat gun an hour or so and used a blind-hole bearing puller.

 

NOTE on using the torch,
always keep the flame moving in a circular motion,
that way you will avoid localized overheating. with aluminum heat over a wider area first,
so that the whole part becomes warm then focus on the seat area

you should be able to heat the corner of the head and with a screw and slide puller remove the seat
The Mapp gas works better because it heats faster so you can get a part hotter use an IR gun heat the corner of the head to about 200F.
work the torch on the area on the outside of the head around the lower area of the seat. it should come free
OR as Dave suggested put the head in the oven and heat it to 225 F

 

This ——^ x 10,000

gotta keep that MAPP gas torch *moving*

 

So, this head was recently rebuilt.
Will the oven method damage the new valve stem seals?

I wasn't able to get the slide hammer to latch on to anything.

 

The valve stem seals are in contact with engine oil that should never be hotter than 225°F. And there’s no doubt some margin there. So, at 225°F you will be fine.

Given the damage, not shocking. The puller you attach to your slide? Does it have a ‘lip’ all the way around?

 

No, there is no lip.
I tried earlier to get a purchase under the bottom at the drain, but no go.

I just tried the MAP gas.

Was able to get a piece of it to break off, but no release. I am thinking it is less of a Loctite issue than just pressed in.

I then put the torch on the piece by itself and it melted.

The base has been pounded so hard that it is hard to see where the seat begins. In the end it may just be a mechanical removal with various implements.

It doesn't seem like the cylindrical wall diameter is very critical, so minor blemishes (if any) from the removal process may not be a worry.

I will again have to remove the galley plugs and install new ones as I will need to re-flush the oil passages.

 

A blind hole bearing puller similar to this one is what I have used in the past:


Each adapter has a lip and is expanded into the hole so as to ‘grab’ whatever lip is available.

And that is the problem with MAPP gas: it heats much-much faster than the part can radiate heat.

 

Too late to help this time, but...

Heat the head as described. If you can get the whole thing to 250º that would be wonderful. You might try adding more heat in the area with a torch, knowing that aluminum conducts heat pretty well. You really want it to heat evenly to avoid warping the casting. But then the double-to-secret trick is to freeze the inserted piece with the liquid from a can of canned air computer duster. can upside down. Inserted pieces all but fall out when frozen in the heated head.

 

looks like it may have worked if there was a place to get under it.

Earlier I made a press/puller to try and lift it out. But, wasn't able to get a bite anywhere.

Looks like it is brute force to the rescue.

Bad things could happen..

Thinking out loud here...………….

I may try and cut some relieve cuts into the sides with a die grinder and then heat in the oven. Then try and pull out piece by piece.

Always an adventure.

 

In the oven

 

OK your done,
take the head to the machine shop and let them fix this

 

Next part of the equation

 

It looks worse than it is. There is no damage to the recess.

 

I imagine that a shot of cold air helped a bit. But it would not budge. Ultimately I went caveman. Cut some relief cuts, folded it in and it rolled on itself.

Now I have to decide if there’s a way to ensure there’s no more shavings inside. I guess I will take out the galley plugs anyway. Onward and upward. Thanks for the support