Before taking this approach, I tried to bleed it from the bottom for an hour without success.

I found it to be very easy to bleed the clutch by reversing the flow; i.e. forcing the fluid in at the bottom back up into the reservoir. A large air bubble came out immediately and I have a perfect pedal.

I used a small gear pump and fabricated a fitting to use instead of the bleed screw. I installed a modified cap on the reservoir, one with a piece of tubing stuck into it which would divert the overflow into a bottle. The flow of the pump is on the order of a couple liters per minute. The point of the fitting is so I could get the required flow/pressure applied to the slave cylinder without blowing the tube off the bleeder screw.

When I removed the fitting from the slave cylinder, it dripped while I reinstalled the bleeder screw (no air was reintroduced).

I should note that I have a new slave cylinder, so I did't worry about sending any crud up into the master.

 

Pretty inventive burping mechanism - somewhat of a reverse pressure bleeder. The clutch slaves are a little fussy on our cars. From a "bang for the buck" point of view. I'm a huge fan of the power bleeder, since "gravity" bleeding is not always succesful.

 

I will be bleeding the clutch slave this week. Why is it so hard to get right?

 

Pretty neat tool, but I have never had a problem bleeding the clutch on
three different 5 speeds by pressing the plunger of the slave in a few times to essentially do what the above tool is doing.......forcing the air back to the master/reservoir. Don't know why some seem to be harder.

 

Red,

That is a darn good question. I have bled many brakes/clutches and never had as tough of a time as on this one. Searching back through the archives, I found reference to difficulty, but not many explanations...

 

I guess I just have to go the 'natural' way until this problem arises. Can anyone tell me the bleeding order?

is it back passenger rear brake and move up to the clutch?

 

Red,

I believe so regarding the order; longest line -> shortest line. If you are just exchanging fluid, and have no air in your system, then you can probably expect no problems bleeding the conventional way.

If you let your reservoir run dry, welcome to hell!

 

Trust me guys,

Invest in the pressure bleeder, 928 sp. has it on their website. I copied/edited the following from posts.

. Master Cylinder
1. Loosen the locknut, then disconnect the pedal end of the push rod by pulling the pin.
2. Remove the dust boot and remove the circlip (AKA snap ring) that holds the piston in the clutch master cylinder.
3. With the pressure bleeder hooked up (10 psi is fine), draw back the piston from the cylinder until you get hydraulic fluid seepage (Pull the cylinder into the passenger compartment until fluid appears).
4. At that point it is bled.
5. Push the piston back into place.
Kemp method for removing air from master cylinder
a. Use your finger to push/release the piston until it starts to pop out of the bore (will only work if you have some pressure from the cylinder to begin with), or pull with a flat-blade screwdriver - very gently - inside the pushrod indent to move the piston out of the MC, towards the inside of the car.
b. The second barrel of the piston will move into view. Continue to move it out until you see the second set of sealing rings. Now, gently rock the piston towards the floor of the car. This will open the cylinder up to the atmosphere.
c. You'll hear air expelled from the top and then fluid will run out. Keep it open a bit until fluid runs well. Make sure the reservoir is right full before cracking the chamber open.
d. Square the piston back up and press it back into the bore.
6. Adjust the push rod length by turning the end until the pin will just slip into the hole with the pedal sitting where it normally does. Then lengthen (preload) the rod by one turn, insert the pin and snug the lock nut (The function of the adjustment is to position the piston cup properly in the cylinder, and have the pedal push rod properly preloaded. My manual has an update to page 30-1 dated 1991. If ALL the air is out of the system it can be preloaded).
7. The piston assembly should sit against the snap ring stop at the outer end of the cylinder.
8. Just inside the cylinder, just past the normal position of the piston cup, is a small hole that connects the cylinder to the fluid reservoir. If you adjust the rod so that it pushes the piston in far enough to cover the hole, no fluid can enter or leave the cylinder to or from the reservoir. This is a BAD thing.
9. Install the circlip and the dust boot and you are done (Not sure if this should be done before 6 or last).

 

The easiest way is to bleed the clutch master from inside the car. Pressurize the reservoir to 10psi. Unhook the linkage to the clutch pedal. Pull the rubber cover from over the master cylinder at the fire wall. Remove the snap ring holding in the piston. Draw the piston out slowly until you see seepage past the cylinder and push it back in. Reinstall the cover and linkage and you get a rock hard clutch pedal every time.

Regards,
JE

EDIT: Ooops, Rez beat me to it.

 

Bleed the brakes first and flush/replace with new fluid if it's more than a year old or you don't know when it was last replaced.

Then bleed/flush the brake fluid through the clutch slave. Even better, if you don't know when the slave was last rebuilt or replaced, is to rebuild the slave with an inexpensive rebuild kit from NAPPA before you do anything. Old fluid accumulates in the slave and is nearly inpossible to flush it all out without removing the slave and pushing it all out (so you might as well rebuild). See: http://members.rennlist.com/jeifert/CJ20.JPG If it's old, you might have a perforated seal anyway. See: http://members.rennlist.com/jeifert/CJ19.JPG Then bleed the slave.

After you bleed the slave then bleed the master per directions for bleeing from inside the car above.

And get a pressure bleeder from the big three. It really makes the job easy for 1 person to do.

Regards,
JE

 

John, what do I ask for at NAPA? You know, spoon feed me ..... FEED ME SEYMORE!! >;-P

 

JE, I think I copied this from a write up you did.

Ditto on the NAPPA rebuild kit. Like to rebuild mine too.

 

Well I just like the fluid run out. I wanted to plug it but didn't have nothing handy. Now that I think about it. I should have used one of those foam ear plugs that you roll up and they expand. I could have stuck one in the clutch slave line to save a headache.

I'm looking at the powerbleeder kit. it seems like just a bug sprayer with a tube going thru an extra brake fluid cap. I can see why it works.

What about these ?

Anyone use them or think they are wurth buying?

Thanks

 

Thought about buying those too Red. However, you still have to rely on gravity for it to bleed as opposed to the fluid being pushed by the powerbleeder. Those won't help you on the slave either.

 

Go to the NAPPA website. Look up a slave cylinder rebuild kit for a 928. I think it's less than$10.00.

JE