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CE Panel Replacement Guidance

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Old 12-19-2019, 04:18 PM
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jej3
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Default CE Panel Replacement Guidance

Swapping out the CE Panel in the 1988 928 (Black Witch) with same part # used from 928 International as the original had some broken relay plugs, etc....

Everything looks great and I've cleaned up the new replacement. Decided to look at backs of both panels and found an issue in the Fuse 1-5 Bank.

Original panel has this arrangement....


Alan's fuse guide suggests the following fuses are in 1-5

Fuse 1 - Central Locking
Fuse 2 - Power Outlet (cigar lighter)
Fuse 3 - Cooling Fan Control
Fuse 4 - Brake Lights, Cruise Control
Fuse 5 - Wipers, Washers and Nozzle Heaters

The panel I received from 928 International (same part #) has the following arrangement for 1-5



On the replacement panel, I have these issues...

Fuse 1 - No Jumper between Fuse 1 and 3
Fuse 2 - Being Fed by CE Connector Plug A instead of Hot Lead from Input Bus
Fuse 3 - No Jumper between Fuse 1 and 3
Fuse 4 - No input from CE Connector Plug A
Fuse 5 - No issues

I am leaning towards changing the CE Panel from 928 International to mirror the configuration which came out. Thought I'd let the RL Experts render a few opinions, too.

Here's the two side by side...




Thanks for any input.
Old 12-20-2019, 10:56 PM
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Captain_Slow
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Trey - Are both panels for a 1988? There are gradual changes in the panels over time. I depended on Alan for help determining which years would have the anatomy for the blocks (bridging behind the face plate). I didn't have any wiring differences like you have found. Alan will be able to help you understand what you're dealing with and how to proceed.
Old 12-21-2019, 11:50 AM
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jetson8859
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I just bought a CE panel for my 88 non sunroof car as several fuse blocks had melted fuse holders. The 1-5 fuse block has wiring the same as your replacement panel.

The markings on the CE Panel are (facing the panel) left side, 896021 right side 928 610 105 18. On the top of the plastic housing left side its stamped 11 Jun 87 and on the left side is stamped 928 610 610 37
Old 12-22-2019, 01:10 PM
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jej3
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Thank you, Kevin!

My two boards were manufactured in 87 within a few months of each other. Same exact wiring but slightly different scheme in 1-5. All Bottom grey wires (b1-b5) below trace to the same destination as a1 through a5 on the original CE panel.

I am modifying the replacement by moving the yellow/black wire from b2 to b4. I'm taking the bus (heavy red) wire from a2 and moving it to the replacement board and connecting to b2. I will also pull the jumper wire from a1/a3 and moving it to b1/b3.




I do not believe sockets b1, b3, and b4 would have power otherwise as the 12v into the fuse is through those empty posts. The jumper from a1 to a3 is interesting and implies that either fuse 1 or 3 gets 12v in through the bottom and the jumper transfers 12v from one fuse to the other.

Stay tuned
Old 12-22-2019, 01:53 PM
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John Speake
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There may have been a change around August for the new Porsche MY. What were the dates of manufacture ?
Old 12-22-2019, 11:26 PM
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Alan
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Fuse 1-5 are all supplied by X Bus (from the ignition switch - active with Accessory and Ignition but not during starting). All 5 of the fuses 1-5 are shorted together on the input bus side inside the fuse holder block - so these Yellow/Black wiring differences are irrelevant - electrically they are directly equivalent.

The Wiring Diagrams are not specific about which fuse terminal input is actually wired (and again it makes no difference). The red wire on your car is an issue - it should not be there. Where does it go to? the input bus (30) (battery power) on the top of the CE panel? Someone did something weird here! This single connection may mean either your X bus is always live...? OR perhaps this is how some cars are configured with always active cigar lighters - is yours? it should NOT work with the ignition off? The new CE panel (without the red wire) will certainly restore what is supposed to be the standard configuration. If your cigar lighter is always active the wire between fuse 1 & 3 is there for a particular reason - else it is completely redundant on your car. 928's should not be wired this way according to the WSM - but we already know of always powered cigar lighters.... this would be how to do it. Personally I think a switched cigar lighter is indeed better - e.g. you can plug in a radar detector and it comes on/off with the ignition, nothing left plugged in is at risk of draining the battery.

Please explain more about this one...

Alan



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