StratfordShark

I'm putting things back together after intake refresh and other jobs. While installing new throttle bracket pulley wheel and new throttle cable, I undid connections to the FPR and fuel damper.

The RHS fuel rail with new o-rings on injectors seated nicely, but the connection at rear between the rail input and the FPR is not quite square, so I can't attach coupling nut. It's the connection on the left of the FPR in first pic. I've loosened the fuel rail nuts to give it a little wiggle room, but it's the FPR that needs to be oriented just right to create square connection. The bolt holding FPR bracket to rear of head is removed, as well as the 'U' connection to the rear damper, and I've undone the coupling nut at the bottom of the FPR, but I can't twist the FPR into correct position as that FPR bracket sits on the rear coolant header.

The line from base of FPR to fuel cooler won't come off entirely, as there's a bolt clamping the metal fuel line to the FPR, visible just to right of centre in second photo. If I remove this bolt can I move the bracket round a little? That would allow me to orient the FPR nicely for the rail connection I think.

I'm puzzled why it won't just go back together the way it came apart!

Should I undo that clamp on the metal fuel line so that the FPR is completely free to move? If not what's the trick to aligning everything?

Thanks a lot.




PS I know the white vac line to diverter valve shouldn't be routed this way, but it's not in the way of anything and I don't want to take the entire intake off again just to route it more neatly around the back of the cam cover.

worf928

Remove the regulator/bracket assembly after unbolting and withdrawing the return line from the bracket.

Then, use an impact wrench to loosen the 27mm (IIRC, might be 24mm) nut that clamps the FPR to the bracket. This will allow the FPR to move with respect to the bracket. (And you must use an impact wrench; a big ‘hand’ wrench and a vice will deform the FPR.)

Re-install bracket/FPR, bolt-down bracket, tighten fuel lines, then tighten the 27/24 mm nut.

And *of course* - last - bypass fuel pump relay to run fuel through the system.

worf928

Also: where’s your airbox bracket?

worf928

And: are you not replacing the fuel lines?

StratfordShark

It’s safe! One end sits over the Allen bolt securing the FPR bracket to header. I got it out the way while I’m fiddling with FPR. Believe me I don’t enjoy going backwards on a job!

StratfordShark

I only replaced the one at the front between damper and rail.

Examined condition of the u-shaped hose at rear, and it was in good condition. Our climate kinder to those hoses (none of the ones under intake were remotely hard/crispy but changed the lot).

having said that I would have liked to replace the U hose but the kit is not available here and I don’t have time to wait for delivery from US as car on display next week. But I satisfied myself that replacing the lines is only slightly harder with intake back in place, so it’s on to-do list.

Thanks for suggestion though!

StratfordShark

Thanks very much! I wondered if the nut (it’s a 24mm - got to know it well after a few disconnects!) held the bracket or if the bracket was some kind of welding deal.

Would the FPR need to be clamped in vice while using impact wrench? Only have a small ‘hobby’ vice so hope it’s up to the job!

will try this tomorrow makes great sense.

yes was always planning to jump fuel relay to test everything safe, especially with injectors reinstalled and having had all the fuel components apart.

Thanks very much again.

worf928

Ok. It’s held captive by the rear-most intake nut, that’s why i asked.

I just hold it in a leather-gloved hand: the miracle of air-powered impact tools (when they are appropriate.) But, wrapped and carefully held in a small vice should work too.

StratfordShark

That trick with loosening brackets works beautifully to line things up.

I haven't actually done it on the FPR yet, but used it to line up both front and rear fuel dampers with the rail and the hard line running across front of engine (the rear bracket held by 13mm, front held by same 24mm as the FPR).

The nuts span right off holding the dampers in my glove, and using air impact.

I think they must have done it in the factory this way, with brackets loose till fuel lines correctly aligned. Otherwise it would be pure chance if a tightened down bracket on a damper or the FPR was in just the right position for installation.

Thanks again. I didn't have this problem when I refreshed intake on my previous S4, but then I'd not disturbed any of the dampers or FPR. New injector o-rings and intake washers must also make a very slight difference to the existing set-up, and the alignment has to be perfect for the coupling nuts to spin on.

worf928

Doesn’t sound like it should work, right? But it does.

It makes sense. So, probably not the way the factory did it

And, stuff gets slightly bent/deformed when you pull it apart. The intake is captured +/- 1-2 mm by the studs, nuts, pressure gaskets.