Cmunkey7

I test drove a nice looking white on white 928 S4 today. As this is my first time in one of these, I did not know what to expect. I plan to drive a s many more as I can before I purchase. I would like to describe my perception of the drive, and get some fedback from you all on whether the ride was what I could expected from a car in condition worthy of a $13,500 asking price.

I started the car and immediately noticed a ticking when the car started. This went away after about a minute or so. I figure it is because the oil is not being kept at the top of the motor. thus has to be pumped back up into the lifters after the car has been started.

If this has been going on for some time, what kind of damage could result and how does it progress with severity over time?
Also does the 1988 928 experience sticky lifters which I have known can cause the tapping that used to plague an old Pontiac of mine?

Upon rolling backward in reverse I heard a grinding noise from the rear. It was very much like metal on metal and almost made me stop in my tracks. When my truck started making this noise, it was the disc pads in the front that had worn down. This was my initial fear. However since it was not my vehicle, and they had already assured me it had been fully inspected, I drove on anyway.
I started slow, straight and flat. There was a sound like a jet motor coming from the rear of the car. It wasnt lloud but sounded like a fan. High pitched and constant. The car is an automatic. Is there supposed to be a high pitched sound coming from the read area of the car when it is running with the radio turned off?

I pulled into a cul de sac and stopped. I listed to the motor and tried to take in the various ambiet sounds. the A/C fans are pretty loud but work. All of the various electronics work. The radio is th e original type but there is no bass to the audio. The sunroof opens but I don't know if it leaks. I revved the motor several times to see if there were any motor sounds that may be noticiable. There is an overall low rumble but nothing unusual.
I took the break off and put it into gear. There was a definite sensation of the the car slipping into drive. It was solid. Is this normal?

I decided to give it some gas when starting from a stopped postion. The accelleration was fun, better than my 98 Eclipse, but not what I remember from driving an 85 Vette back in 85. It could just be an old memory distorting my perceptions.
I drove it for a couple miles and then turned on the headlights. The lights both came up and lit up. The warning light on the dash, and the reset button both lit up also. When I shut the lights off, the warning light went out also. I turned the head lights on again, and the warning light came back on. I hit the rest button, and the warning light went out, and did not come back on for the rest of the drive.

The rear hatch **** works on both sides. The rear wiper works, and the leather and dash are all intact. The odometer is out but is going to be fixed before sold. This brings into question the validity of the 75000 mile reading. The maintenace records are with the vehicle. The numbers match and the seem in line with what I have read to expect. When i popped the hood, the car was warmed up and idling. I couls hear a whining that I took for the timing belt. Also, when I pressed on the accelerator, in neutral, the oil pressure needle jumped significantly. this was pretty constant.

I didn't notice any fluid leaks. The motor is not dirty but isn't spottless either. the breather duct on the right side of the motor, is cracked at the point where the flex meets the molded solid plastic.

Lastly, the dealer said their mechanic who was a Porsche expert had already looked it over and given it a bill of good health. I suspect the timing belt needs replacement, as well as the water pump, and whatever else should be done at this time. there is an electrical broblem causing the warning light to come on, the rear brakes need attention, and there may be a transmission problem. It may even be possible there is an oil pump problem. I already know the oil is leaking from the upper motor for some reason.

The lack of low end power was disturbing also. Being an automatic, I expected to be able to step on the accelerator and really feel the pressure as the car jumped forward. I didn't get this. Once on the highway, and when the rpms were ove 3k, it semed lively but still la little lacking. However, it is so smooth, that it didn't feel like 80 when I looked at the speedo. As I shifted it manually through the 2nd and third positions, it seemed to drop solidly and noticably into gear. Not smoothly.

What do you think?

Cmunkey7

I forgot to add, there is play in the stering although the rack has been replaced twice. This is according to the records that came with the car. There is no history of accidents.

bcdavis

The whine might be the torque tube...

And no, the transmission should not "jump" into gear solidly.
It could be a case of just making some adjustments, and refilling the fluid.
Or it could be something worse in the early stages. (Trans rebuild)

The rest of the stuff seems like electrical gremlins,
and the general maintainance stuff, like TB/WP, etc...

The acceleration might improve with some modifications.
Chip, headers, rising rate regulator, etc...
But the 928 is generally not a low-rpm torque car.
It hits it's power higher in the rpm band...

I'd definately drive some other examples.
I think you could find something with possibly better power,
and less serious problems. Just assume you will want to do
the timing belt, and fix all the gremlins on any 928...
Just plan on a couple thousand right off the bat to get it up to snuff...

I would only buy a car with a funky transmission if it was an amazing
car in all other areas...

Cmunkey7

Thanks for the feedback, and for taking the time to read my ramblings.

Scott Turnbull

Three simple and common things that can make an otherwise healthy car seem seriously low on power.

1. Flappy not working

2. Vacuum leaks (possibly related to 1)

3. (You auto guys correct me if I am mistake here) I believe the autos in 88 are designed to start off in second gear. The only way to get a first gear start is to mash the pedal to the floor which engages a kick down switch that often is not working.

I have been in a car that had all three of these things wrong and it was a slug! After very little time and expense fixing just these three things the car was transformed into a raging beast! It was like night and day.

Disclaimer: I can't say that this is what is wrong in your case. Just food for thought.

Rich9928p

If at a stop you put the shifter in "2" position and then move it up to "D" or "3" position, it should start in 1st gear. You should notice a lot more low-end umph. 928 ATs feel slow, but in reality are just a second or so slower to 60 MPH than the 5-speed counterparts per factory specs.

You sound sceptical of the seller's claims that "it has all been checked out and is OK" ... you should be. Any buyer should have a pre-purchase inspection made by a neutral 3rd party mechanic who knows 928s.

Look at as many possible 928s as possible. Buy the latest model that you budget permits, but keep at least 10% of the purchase price in reserve to fix things that pop-up and to fix things that are needed to get it where you want.

One of our AZ group members purchased an S4 at a good price and budgeted for the fixes that he wants done. The car looks much nicer now and is on the way to become a real keeper.

Ispeed

The loud whine from the rear is the fuel pump, and that is normal. It's pretty loud.

I don't know if there are any 928's for sale that don't have some issues and deferred maint. items. The exception being some of the owners' cars on this site, but they are not the ones for sale...when somebody loses interest (and puts the 928 for sale) the car won't get the right care.

The selling price is for the maintenance, and they throw in the car for free.

Jim_H

I doubt the high pitched, whining noise you are hearing is the fuel pump. I can't hear the pump when the Shark is running. That grinding noise you are hearing in the rear may also be cv joints?
Take your time and you will find the right car for you.

Nicole

Go to http://www.eatel.net/~dslabat/mech.htm and find a mechanic in your area, who has specific experience with the 928. Take potential candidates there, and have your own pre-purchase inspection done. Believe me, it's worth the cost!

Andre Roodnat

By my knowledge only the european cars have the rear hatch release on both sides. But I stand corrected if not. In that case, the mileage is always questionable. 75000/16 years is about 4700 miles a year. That's low. Very possible but low. Could you see any signs of conversion to USA standards, like the side markers?

As you already say, the best way to find a good car is to drive several, so you can feel/sense the differences and eventual flaws.

Good luck on your search.

Cameron

Both my North American '90 S4 and my German spec '91 GT had / have rear hatch release on both sides.

Re the odometer: I would never purchase a car knowing that the speedometer is or has been disconnected. Just my opinion.

With some simple adjustments to the auto trans cable and the installation of a parallel kick down switch, you can make the auto trans cars be very responsive.

.....Cameron
'91 Euro GT

Gretch

Take Nicole's advice...................That is the best advice you will get here.

BTW the 928 brakes make a lot of noise for the first ten feet if the car has sat a bit. That noise is the oxidation on the rotors being scrubbed off by the pads. That is my experience with my car, which I have had for 12 years, and my brakes could not be in better condition than they are given the few milws I have on them.......

Do the records indicate how many times the car has been shod with tires? that may be a help in verifying the mileage.

Good luck.

Old & New

13,500 is high, in any case. I only paid 11 for my 89 in good condition. If you pay top dollar and the car is in such good condition according to them, maybe they will give you a one year 10,000 mile warrantee?

Jim bailey - 928 International

cmonk ..." I suspect the timing belt needs replacement, as well as the water pump, and whatever else should be done at this time. there is an electrical broblem causing the warning light to come on,.......also .."I couls hear a whining that I took for the timing belt. " ...................... Based on your comments that the timing belt warning light was on , that they told you it was an electrical problem , and you could here the belt whining ............The timing belt is probably set WAY TOO TIGHT . Their "mechanic" probably just turned that bolt more and more to get rid of the warning light , since it stays on .......it must be an "electrical problem" . I would not believe anything they are telling you ............. But I do not believe very many people anyway This does not make this a BAD car just one that needs to be carefully examined and Yes , full timing belt service .

Randy V

What Rich said...