Clutch Dowel Pins Removal Question
#1
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Clutch Dowel Pins Removal Question
Long time reader, first time poster. First, thanks for all the assistance! Really impressed at the depth of knowledge and generosity of this community.
I'm working on my '85 928S 5sp. It's been parked for 2+ years as I haven't had time to address what I think is a bum TO bearing, but I'm dropping the clutch now and intend to replace the whole assembly.
I've done several searches but haven't seen in-depth info on this: I'm at the point where you're supposed to drive out 3 dowel pins (one being stepped and driven out toward the engine, the other two toward the transmission), but NONE of them will budge. I've soaked them in PB for a while, and beat the hell out of them with a punch. Trouble is, it's hard to get a good swing from the engine side.
I'm wondering if applying some heat would damage the flywheel, which I'd like to keep. Maybe putting a soldering iron on the actual pins could help keep the heat targeted? Or would it just expand the metal in the hole and make it more difficult to remove?
I've spent a good portion of my weekend time budget on this and really need to move on...any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
I'm working on my '85 928S 5sp. It's been parked for 2+ years as I haven't had time to address what I think is a bum TO bearing, but I'm dropping the clutch now and intend to replace the whole assembly.
I've done several searches but haven't seen in-depth info on this: I'm at the point where you're supposed to drive out 3 dowel pins (one being stepped and driven out toward the engine, the other two toward the transmission), but NONE of them will budge. I've soaked them in PB for a while, and beat the hell out of them with a punch. Trouble is, it's hard to get a good swing from the engine side.
I'm wondering if applying some heat would damage the flywheel, which I'd like to keep. Maybe putting a soldering iron on the actual pins could help keep the heat targeted? Or would it just expand the metal in the hole and make it more difficult to remove?
I've spent a good portion of my weekend time budget on this and really need to move on...any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
#2
Rennlist Member
I had this exact problem on my '85. The solution was to unbolt the transmission from its mounts, slide it back a few inches, then you have the room to remove the assembly with pins still installed.
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johnnyonthespot (09-16-2019)
#3
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Just remember to disconnect the e-brake cable from the handle so that you don’t stretch the cable when you slide back the transaxle.
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johnnyonthespot (09-16-2019)
#4
Team Owner
And loosen the 4 bell housing bolts so they are about 3 turns left in then the bell housing will slide back on the bolts.
NOTE do a prefit with the guide tube and stub shaft,
mark the stub shaft at the aft end where it comes out of the guide tube,
slide the bell housing together first.
You want the snout of the stub shaft to be inserted into the pilot bearing,
then pull it out about 3 mm, then mark it at the aft end of the guide tube,
this will center the snout into the pilot bearing and prevent the stub from bottoming out on your pilot bearing when you install the complete clutch pack,
also replace the release arm bushing
NOTE hammering on the pins will transfer the force to the thrust bearing its not a good idea to do this.
Sliding the trans /bellhousing back will give you enough room to remove the clutch pack without hitting the pins
NOTE do a prefit with the guide tube and stub shaft,
mark the stub shaft at the aft end where it comes out of the guide tube,
slide the bell housing together first.
You want the snout of the stub shaft to be inserted into the pilot bearing,
then pull it out about 3 mm, then mark it at the aft end of the guide tube,
this will center the snout into the pilot bearing and prevent the stub from bottoming out on your pilot bearing when you install the complete clutch pack,
also replace the release arm bushing
NOTE hammering on the pins will transfer the force to the thrust bearing its not a good idea to do this.
Sliding the trans /bellhousing back will give you enough room to remove the clutch pack without hitting the pins
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johnnyonthespot (09-16-2019)
#5
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Guys, GREAT advice. Thank you so much! Slammed with work at the moment but I'm going to try it this week. Just to clarify: I will need to reconnect the coupler to the stub shaft before sliding the transmission and TT backward, correct? Is that what will pull the clutch pack out?
#6
Team Owner
what are you clarifying?>
The clutch pack will drop out onto your head .
after you do the following
You will slide the coupler back first so its clear of the stub shaft,
then remove the release arm after you have put in the 3 spacers.
remove the guide tube bolts
loosen the 4 bell housing bolts till 3 turns left
remove the 2 trans mount bolts
carefully pry the TT back it will slide on the 4 bolts.
NOTE the bottom of the trans will hit the e brake cable so be aware of that.
Then remove the 6 PP bolts.
then carefully lever the clutch pack off the pins,
the stub shaft guide tube release arm and pp and disc will all come down in one assembly,
so hold it or it can fall on your head .
wear safety glasses as friction dust will also fall and get into your eyes
The clutch pack will drop out onto your head .
after you do the following
You will slide the coupler back first so its clear of the stub shaft,
then remove the release arm after you have put in the 3 spacers.
remove the guide tube bolts
loosen the 4 bell housing bolts till 3 turns left
remove the 2 trans mount bolts
carefully pry the TT back it will slide on the 4 bolts.
NOTE the bottom of the trans will hit the e brake cable so be aware of that.
Then remove the 6 PP bolts.
then carefully lever the clutch pack off the pins,
the stub shaft guide tube release arm and pp and disc will all come down in one assembly,
so hold it or it can fall on your head .
wear safety glasses as friction dust will also fall and get into your eyes
#7
Rennlist Member
Rob edwards also has suggests turning the engine until the larger pins are at six o'clock. I've followed his advice and it was a real help. Both on removing the installing the clutch pack.
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#8
Team Owner
once the bell housing is moved to the back,
the pins should be well clear of the flywheel
but orienting them couldnt hurt
the pins should be well clear of the flywheel
but orienting them couldnt hurt
#9
Rennlist Member
In addition to eye protection - a set of leather work gloves improves your grip and the pain of the pressure plate cutting into you palms.
#10
Rennlist Member
When we had stuck dowell pins I got an air chisel point and they pounded right out in a few seconds...see linky to get the idea
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-l...-pc-68276.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-l...-pc-68276.html