After so many things fixed (fuel pressure, new injectors, timing corrected, idle and mixture set, thermotime switch replaced, etc, etc, etc) the car still doesn't run well at low RPMs. It was in the shop a few weeks ago getting a new TB and water pump and my mechanic pointed out a few wires were corroded and barely hanging on on the male side of the 14 pin connector. I told him I would resolder them myself and save a few $$ on shop fees. So this morning I discovered 4 bad wires. Two broke off from the pins as I touched them and two more had missing insulation and corroded wires. I resoldered the 4 pins onto a new wires planning on crimping them in a few inches down where there would be good wire. So far I've cut down about 8 inches into the two corroded wires and they are still corroded. My guess is the corrosion goes down quite a bit further so at this point should I just replace those two runs of wire from end to end, keep cutting down hoping I can find good wire at some point and spice into that?, or go ahead and replace the whole harness?
To add to the grief I have a total of 10 connections that are on that block but with the manual I can only identify 4, and two of those are in different slots as well. My manuals are US only so I checked the 81 section then the 79 since the 79 US had CIS. Both give me the same four pins.
1. Blue wire in mine, book has blue wire for generator regulator
2. blue/yellow wire in mine - book has notta
3. blue/green wire in mine - book has notta
4. double red/white wire in mine book has notta
5. black wire in mine, book has notta
6. no wire in mine
7. no wire in mine, book shows red/white for sup. air valve
8. black/blue in mine. book has notta
9. blue/white in mine. book shows black for AC LP switch
10. blackish/green in mine, book has black/yellow for starter&ignition unit
11. no wire in mine
12. black/yellow in mine
13. no wire in mine.
14. yellow wire in mine. book has yellow wire for starter * thermotime switch.

Can anyone shed light on what these other wires are for?
The final straw. -While working on the 14 pin connector I noticed the connector where the distro green wire connects. The green wire side looks fine, the connector on the black wire side is cracked and the wire showing looks corroded and not 100% attached. Does this piece need to be replaced end to end too?
Frustration took over and I was able to lock the car up and walk away instead of beating the daylights out of it.
- Eric

 

First - I've not spent a lot of time in or under pre-S4 928s.

Are you discussing the front main engine harness? Connector at the jump point, runs in front of the engine to various things, then to the alternator and starter?

If you are not then don't read further. If you are - on an S4 or newer the whole front harness costs about $230 and is something that you can replace yourself in a couple of hours. Maybe its different or harder on an pre-S4. But, if it isn't, $230 and a few hours for a new harness might save you a lot of time and headaches.

Also, if it is in fact the front harness, I'll wager that the corrosion at the connector is because you don't have the 6-inch long plastic protective cover over the connector and jump point. Whether you fix the harness yourself or buy a new one - get the cover. It keeps water that enters the bay through the gap between the hood and fender from getting onto the connector.

 

Parrothead;

I'm sure your Euro is different from the US version, but check the Nicoles site. 3-4 years ago I sorted out the 14pin connector on my 79 Cab. Had everything listed by color and function. I submitted it to his site. Not sure it ever made the cut or not. Maybe try doing a search of the email list for 3 years ago.

Scott

 

David, Thanks for the information. I am indeed talking about the main engine harness. There is no cover for the connector and the jump point on the car. Is this a one piece item that covers both? A new harness and a cover will probably be the best thing to do then. The car spent quite a bit of its life in Florida, and the harness was not installed correctly when I got the car which probably both lead to the corrosion.
Thanks
- Eric

 

Good news: I've got the harness out of my '80 Euro S

Bad news: It'll be a few days, maybe next weekend before I could get to checking it out. Drop me a PM in a few days if you need some data off it.

Bad news II: I've been told that engine harnesses for older cars are not available. Someone please correct this if I'm wrong. I know a guy who had a minor engine fire and mine is awfully crust.

 

Scott, I found it. Thanks!!!
Now here is a question for you since you have already had that experience. I'm going to assume that the US and Euro are pretty close on the pinouts. I havent fooled with the bottom connector part yet but I assume it can be shifted around like the top wires? Meaning if the manual says pin nine is for the AC switch, mine can be in pin 6 as long as the top pin is the same as the bottom? It looks like several of mine are on different pin #s but I am wondering if that is really a problem if they do mate up to the correct circuit.
thanks
- Eric

 

Ugh. After seeing Glen's post I can only offer my condolences. Perhaps Jim from 928 intl will be along shortly with good news for you about a pristine harness he's got on a shelf...
It is actually a three piece deal. There's a main cover - about 6" by 2" by 2" that fits over the entire jump-point area, a screw-on plastic cap for the jump-point, and a strap for the cap to the cover so that you have to try really hard to lose the cap.

 

Eric;

You're correct. You can put the pins wherever you want as long as they mate the other side. Only problem is some leads are shorter/longer than others and may only fit connector one way.

Sounds like you should get a new harness. I wonder if a place like Painless wiring would make a repro?


Scott