need help: in the middle of removing clutch
02-22-2004, 12:32 AM
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need help: in the middle of removing clutch
http://www.nauticaltech.com/~mike/in...?object_id=242
Well, those are the pics of where i'm at. I was bracing myself as i thought the whole assembly was going to fall on my face, but it didn't !
I can't quite seem to figure out why it isn't comming out. I didn't push any dowel pins around (i think i read on someone's site you didn't really need to). Could that be the reason?
Thanks!!
Jim: Looks like i'll be calling you very soon for some replacement parts...
Well, those are the pics of where i'm at. I was bracing myself as i thought the whole assembly was going to fall on my face, but it didn't !
I can't quite seem to figure out why it isn't comming out. I didn't push any dowel pins around (i think i read on someone's site you didn't really need to). Could that be the reason?
Thanks!!
Jim: Looks like i'll be calling you very soon for some replacement parts...
02-22-2004, 02:19 AM
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so if i have already unbolted the pressure plate, would i need to bolt it back in to put the shims in place?
At this point, the individual parts of the assembly dont appear to be fully connected to each other. I can move the various parts around to some extent.
At this point, the individual parts of the assembly dont appear to be fully connected to each other. I can move the various parts around to some extent.
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02-22-2004, 02:33 AM
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This is where someone else needs to jump in. I am only guessing here but if you can line it up correctly that is what I would do. You will have to be very careful because you will probably have to tighten the bolts some now before the 3 dowells can find their mark because the clutch will be hitting the flywheel first. Don't if this makes since. I am going to pm you my phone #.
1 other thing to watch for. Make sure you get the right TO bearing to match your ball cup bushing AND sleeve. DOn't leave it up to 1 of the big three. I did and I am sitting here tonight having accomplished nothing because the sleeve doesn't fit.
1 other thing to watch for. Make sure you get the right TO bearing to match your ball cup bushing AND sleeve. DOn't leave it up to 1 of the big three. I did and I am sitting here tonight having accomplished nothing because the sleeve doesn't fit.
02-22-2004, 03:25 AM
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Thanks for all your help, i sent you a PM. I want to give it a rest until tomorrow, but if anyone else has any comments - please do share! Thanks again.
02-22-2004, 04:57 AM
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Check out this pic (link) by John Eifert. The shim is the copper-colored piece. This is a picture of a double-disc clutch which I believe your car has instead of the single-disc type that Jim has pictured.
I removed my double-disc clutch without installing shims, but it was a mistake (as you know) and was an enormous pain to get out. In the end a lot of pulling and prying finally released it onto my nose. You will need to use a vice or a press on the pressure plate to install the shims before you install the new clutch.
I removed my double-disc clutch without installing shims, but it was a mistake (as you know) and was an enormous pain to get out. In the end a lot of pulling and prying finally released it onto my nose. You will need to use a vice or a press on the pressure plate to install the shims before you install the new clutch.
02-22-2004, 08:30 AM
#11
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It's fortunately been awhile since replacing the twin disc unit in my '80, but, as I recall....
How much 'wiggle' room do you have w. the pressure plate? I never had any until I'd used a punch to tap (actually, beat!) the 3 locating pins back.
All too obvious to mention, but the intermediate shaft has a way of hanging up on the pilot bearing when you're ready to release: same can be said of the release lever.
If the locating dowels are still in, or close to where they should be - make up the spacers and spin in a few of the bolts to recompress the PPlate. Not impossible to remove without, but much easier with! Pics are in the WSM - I'd bent the 'U' shape from 1/4" diameter wire.
The whole unit isn't too heavy when it comes out: however, it strangely gains 50# when you're on your back, lifting the thing for the 5th time trying to line up the dowel pins.
Last point, if you have a new pressure plate - it must be preloaded: various blocks of wood and C-clamps make an adequate press.
How much 'wiggle' room do you have w. the pressure plate? I never had any until I'd used a punch to tap (actually, beat!) the 3 locating pins back.
All too obvious to mention, but the intermediate shaft has a way of hanging up on the pilot bearing when you're ready to release: same can be said of the release lever.
If the locating dowels are still in, or close to where they should be - make up the spacers and spin in a few of the bolts to recompress the PPlate. Not impossible to remove without, but much easier with! Pics are in the WSM - I'd bent the 'U' shape from 1/4" diameter wire.
The whole unit isn't too heavy when it comes out: however, it strangely gains 50# when you're on your back, lifting the thing for the 5th time trying to line up the dowel pins.
Last point, if you have a new pressure plate - it must be preloaded: various blocks of wood and C-clamps make an adequate press.
02-22-2004, 11:49 AM
#14
Nordschleife Master
Clutch Adjustment afterwards
FYI and good Luck -
The number one issue is he should put clips on the three ears of the pressure plate to remove pressure plate tension or he might not be able to get it installed. Secondly, the intermediate plate adjustment is critical.
Adjusting the 928 double disc clutch center ring: The 928 double disc clutch is superior to any other production car clutch assembly. It is small in diameter, has a large surface area, low angular momentum and is easy to modulate. However, it does have one fault. Porsche discontinued the clutch at the end of 1986 because of continuing problems with having the clutch properly serviced in the field.
If the center ring is out of position, the clutch, even in the fully disengaged position, will experience "drag". This drag will cause a creep when the car is standing still, in gear and idling. The clutch drag will also cause difficult shifting and grinding in reverse gear. The other aspect of the service problem is that improper lubrication of the clutch assembly and central shaft causes poor quality engagement and early failure of parts.
The Fix: To properly adjust the center ring, remove the clutch cover and disengage the clutch by using a bar against the release bearing arm. In the disengaged position, the center ring should be equidistant from the flywheel and the pressure plate. If the center ring is out of position, reposition it by moving the adjusting forks of the center ring with a screwdriver. Rotate the engine by hand to gain access to each of the three adjusting forks. Disregard the dimensions given in the 928 factory repair manual!
Lubricate all of the pivot points of the pressure plate diaphragm spring with dry molybdenum disulfide spray (such as Zep product #0073). Lubricate the central shaft and release bearing guide sleeve with moly paste. This procedure will assure easy modulation of, and long service life for, the double disc clutch assembly.
End of Article: courtesy of Rich Andrade.
I helped Steve K remove and install his clutch on his 79. IMHO, it is a two man job, along with the use of a jack to hold the clutch in while getting it to fit. WHAT a PIA that was.
Again......good luck.
The number one issue is he should put clips on the three ears of the pressure plate to remove pressure plate tension or he might not be able to get it installed. Secondly, the intermediate plate adjustment is critical.
Adjusting the 928 double disc clutch center ring: The 928 double disc clutch is superior to any other production car clutch assembly. It is small in diameter, has a large surface area, low angular momentum and is easy to modulate. However, it does have one fault. Porsche discontinued the clutch at the end of 1986 because of continuing problems with having the clutch properly serviced in the field.
If the center ring is out of position, the clutch, even in the fully disengaged position, will experience "drag". This drag will cause a creep when the car is standing still, in gear and idling. The clutch drag will also cause difficult shifting and grinding in reverse gear. The other aspect of the service problem is that improper lubrication of the clutch assembly and central shaft causes poor quality engagement and early failure of parts.
The Fix: To properly adjust the center ring, remove the clutch cover and disengage the clutch by using a bar against the release bearing arm. In the disengaged position, the center ring should be equidistant from the flywheel and the pressure plate. If the center ring is out of position, reposition it by moving the adjusting forks of the center ring with a screwdriver. Rotate the engine by hand to gain access to each of the three adjusting forks. Disregard the dimensions given in the 928 factory repair manual!
Lubricate all of the pivot points of the pressure plate diaphragm spring with dry molybdenum disulfide spray (such as Zep product #0073). Lubricate the central shaft and release bearing guide sleeve with moly paste. This procedure will assure easy modulation of, and long service life for, the double disc clutch assembly.
End of Article: courtesy of Rich Andrade.
I helped Steve K remove and install his clutch on his 79. IMHO, it is a two man job, along with the use of a jack to hold the clutch in while getting it to fit. WHAT a PIA that was.
Again......good luck.
Last edited by Drewster67; 02-22-2004 at 01:26 PM.
02-22-2004, 12:30 PM
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M -
The dowel pins have to be driven out of the flywheel (or is it the clutch assy?) for the clutch assembly to be removed. I think the 'shims' are necessary only if you need to remove/install the throwout bearing from the pressure plate (its been 2 years since I replaced mine so things are a little foggy). Once the dowel pins have been punched enough to remove the clutch assy, slide the short center shaft towards the rear of the car and get ready to catch a handful of clutch parts. Good Luck!
The dowel pins have to be driven out of the flywheel (or is it the clutch assy?) for the clutch assembly to be removed. I think the 'shims' are necessary only if you need to remove/install the throwout bearing from the pressure plate (its been 2 years since I replaced mine so things are a little foggy). Once the dowel pins have been punched enough to remove the clutch assy, slide the short center shaft towards the rear of the car and get ready to catch a handful of clutch parts. Good Luck!