1983 928S Lost Power - Now Won't Start
08-19-2019, 02:14 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Thad, You'll get through this. Good thoughts for diagnostics so far. I should add that starting with Mrmerlin's instructions are best (verify distributor function) as his suggestion BEST correlates to the symptoms you describe with regard to lack of TSZ AND L-jet functionality.
08-19-2019, 02:34 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Although I haven't gotten over the hurdle yet, this new Porsche owner wants to thank everyone who has contributed their knowledge and experience.
Yes, the green wire has been replaced and I am glad that I did it.
After checking for distributor operation while cranking, I will look into the ballast resistors and the connections up to the coil.
Additionally, I will be checking the computer connector.
Thad
Yes, the green wire has been replaced and I am glad that I did it.
After checking for distributor operation while cranking, I will look into the ballast resistors and the connections up to the coil.
Additionally, I will be checking the computer connector.
Thad
If you have not ready the "sticky" thread at the top of the forum main page titled "NEW VISITOR? Here are some answers to frequently...." please do so. You will learn a lot.
And in case you have not cleaned your ground points and confirmed your battery voltage as suggested in post #4, here is a quote from Max at post #7 of the "New Visitors?' thread:
"Let’s start by strongly suggesting to all new 928 owners to find and clean all our ground point, ground straps and sensor connectors! Replace them if necessary, you could even add a few new ground straps if you choose. Appling moister barrier grease or spray to the terminal ends and contact point is also a good “while your there” task.
GROUND POINTS
Pay close attention to the small ground points throughout the car, if you don’t you’re going to have problems. The problems may show up as intermittent hard starts, rough idle, bad gauge readings as well as poor performance.
BATTERY and GROUND STRAPS
If your battery is not at full charge, with clean terminals and the ground straps are oxidized or corroded, the engine and it’s sensors will not be properly grounded to the chassis and can give you the same problems as listed above."
-Jason
08-19-2019, 09:11 PM
#33
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did you remove the distributor cap and see the rotor spinning while you crank the engine?
Someone else had a similar issue and it turned out that the timing belt had failed and thus the distributor wouldnt turn as the cams were not turning.
MK from your suggestion your car has a MAF unit ,
NOTE . the car we are troubleshooting is an earlier version and is not equipped with the MAF
Someone else had a similar issue and it turned out that the timing belt had failed and thus the distributor wouldnt turn as the cams were not turning.
MK from your suggestion your car has a MAF unit ,
NOTE . the car we are troubleshooting is an earlier version and is not equipped with the MAF
I took the distributor cap off and had my son crank the engine. The rotor just sat there.
so......now, I need to prepare for a timing belt and water pump replacement.
Any recommendations for which parts to buy? 928 Motorsports had kits but the sticker price was damn near $700.00. Is this the way to go?
Knowing that the crank was turning without the cams turning,are there any good write up about how I am going to get everything synchronized again??
08-19-2019, 09:27 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Do you have a covered place to work on it?
A minimum list of parts is easy to put together,
But best is to disassemble and inspect to determine if you need the extended list that includes cam gears and oil pump gear.
Where are you located? Tming belt replacement parties are not unheard of. Any maint history come with the car?
A minimum list of parts is easy to put together,
But best is to disassemble and inspect to determine if you need the extended list that includes cam gears and oil pump gear.
Where are you located? Tming belt replacement parties are not unheard of. Any maint history come with the car?
08-19-2019, 09:42 PM
#35
Team Owner
OK at this point you need to read the FAQ,
then buy a WSM and study how to take the belt apart,
Then take the belt run apart.
Once this is done then you should evaluate all of the worn parts and order all the new parts you will need.
IOW dont spend any money now as you need to learn more about what has to happen to figure out why the belt had failed in the first place,
take your time
then buy a WSM and study how to take the belt apart,
Then take the belt run apart.
Once this is done then you should evaluate all of the worn parts and order all the new parts you will need.
IOW dont spend any money now as you need to learn more about what has to happen to figure out why the belt had failed in the first place,
take your time
08-20-2019, 04:15 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
As above - you need a lot more research to find out what parts you need, and whats involved. I did my first belt & water pump job with only help from here and emails, far from civilization, no previous Porsche experience, but lots on other cars. Dont let it frighten you.Pull the top front belt covers on each side(one bolt each, in front) to assess the cam gears, and possible why the belt broke. The distributor side is the critical one, as the nose of this camshaft is known to break off!
Get this pdf from the web http://static.ibsrv.net/autocomm/Con...ber%202011.pdf - its a very good how to on a 16v engine. You will need to have access to a big tension wrench (to 215ft/lb), and smaller range also (down to 6,11,15,30,48 ft/lb- the big wrenches are not very accurate in the low ranges), a belt tension gauge , a flywheel lock, as well as 5 and 6mm allen keys, and a range of metric sockets of course.
928srus can do a kit of parts for the job, but you need to see if you need new cam gears, oil pump gear (changed to steel from alloy for longer life) etc. My package for the job was over $700 even without a pump or a belt.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Get this pdf from the web http://static.ibsrv.net/autocomm/Con...ber%202011.pdf - its a very good how to on a 16v engine. You will need to have access to a big tension wrench (to 215ft/lb), and smaller range also (down to 6,11,15,30,48 ft/lb- the big wrenches are not very accurate in the low ranges), a belt tension gauge , a flywheel lock, as well as 5 and 6mm allen keys, and a range of metric sockets of course.
928srus can do a kit of parts for the job, but you need to see if you need new cam gears, oil pump gear (changed to steel from alloy for longer life) etc. My package for the job was over $700 even without a pump or a belt.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
08-20-2019, 01:26 PM
#37
Burning Brakes
Its will take a while on the first time you change a timing belt. Make sure you get everything you need once your in there.