S4 camshaft bearing cap bolts
01-16-2009, 02:09 PM
#16
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RE: the use of the 9226 tool, I took my cams out without it. I just put the engine at 45o BTDC, then you can spin the cams so that none of the lobes are pushing down on the lifter (well, at least not very much). I splurged on a Hazet socket (990-8) and after tapping the bit into each cleaned bolt head, I used an impact wrench to loosen each bolt one at a time, then tightened them back down by hand. THen I went around and loosened each cap bolt 1/4 turn sequentially until the pressure was off all bolts. It's a litte nerve wracking as there's definitely still some spring pressure on some of the lobes but just move slowly and evenly.
FWIW, the 9226 tool only works on the '85-86 motors- The 9226 set comes with 2 blocks, the cam lobe timing bars, and a pair of black anodized bolts that thread into the spark plug holes and hold the blocks. - In '87 there are these little sleeves around the cam tower bolts that are bigger in diameter than the holes machined in the face of the 9226 cam blocks. So to use the tool on S4 motors, you also need to buy the 9248 tool, which is just a pair of blocks that fit over the cam tower bolt sleeves and sit flat on the valve cover gasket surface.
FWIW, the 9226 tool only works on the '85-86 motors- The 9226 set comes with 2 blocks, the cam lobe timing bars, and a pair of black anodized bolts that thread into the spark plug holes and hold the blocks. - In '87 there are these little sleeves around the cam tower bolts that are bigger in diameter than the holes machined in the face of the 9226 cam blocks. So to use the tool on S4 motors, you also need to buy the 9248 tool, which is just a pair of blocks that fit over the cam tower bolt sleeves and sit flat on the valve cover gasket surface.
01-17-2009, 09:44 AM
#17
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I just built my own tool to hold down the cams out of some square stock I picked up at Home Depo for about $10. Worked great and made removal a little less stressful.
03-23-2009, 09:22 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
What's the logic of using these XZN sockets anywhere? It seems to me this is one of the single worst designs yet that I've ever seen anywhere. Close second might be the federal tax code.
Also, what's the right method for pulling out the cam hub?
Also, what's the right method for pulling out the cam hub?
03-23-2009, 10:57 PM
#19
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I use a Snap-On hand held Impact Driver (hit it with a hammer) and have yet to strip one out.
I know some will not think it, but there is a big difference in a cheap Impact Driver and a Snap-On one.
This was the very first Snap-On tool I ever bought, almost 35 + years ago, I have almost worn the finish off of it and it still works great.
The other Greg
I know some will not think it, but there is a big difference in a cheap Impact Driver and a Snap-On one.
This was the very first Snap-On tool I ever bought, almost 35 + years ago, I have almost worn the finish off of it and it still works great.
The other Greg
02-06-2011, 02:28 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Rob
Use the Irwin brand tools bolt extractor. It is the type unlike your snap-on's which bit onto the exterior of the head, (not the interior hex portion)
This tool set costs less than $20 at Home Depot and does in fact fit the bolt and the cam cap. (In that the tool doesnt interfere with the cam cap at all.
Worked perfect for me, honestly it was all too easy. When i stripped it i was bummed! But this pulled the thing out no problem
Below is an example of what i am talking about (because we know pictures are so much more better-er)
Use the Irwin brand tools bolt extractor. It is the type unlike your snap-on's which bit onto the exterior of the head, (not the interior hex portion)
This tool set costs less than $20 at Home Depot and does in fact fit the bolt and the cam cap. (In that the tool doesnt interfere with the cam cap at all.
Worked perfect for me, honestly it was all too easy. When i stripped it i was bummed! But this pulled the thing out no problem
Below is an example of what i am talking about (because we know pictures are so much more better-er)
Buy a Hazet tool to fit these. The Hazet tools are harder and don't round out the 12 point....I've never replaced my Hazet bit and I've used it literally hundreds of times. Not the case with my Snap-on bits. Give the entire top of these bolts a solid hit, or two, with a brass drift to "loosen" the grip that the washer and the head has on the aluminum cap. They come out really easy, if you do this. The threads are never the part that sticks on these bolts. If you drill the heads off, you can always unthread the remaining piece, with your fingers. The washer friction is the culprit.
On the water pump, the actual threads are the part that freezes. We do not use an impact on water pump bolts...this will break off anything that is semi-frozen. Turn the water pump bolts slowly, to salvage as many as possible. Always replace the water pump bolts, use a factory gasket, and factory anti-sieze and you will not have a problem getting them out, next time.
On the water pump, the actual threads are the part that freezes. We do not use an impact on water pump bolts...this will break off anything that is semi-frozen. Turn the water pump bolts slowly, to salvage as many as possible. Always replace the water pump bolts, use a factory gasket, and factory anti-sieze and you will not have a problem getting them out, next time.
