jpitman2

Tried piggy backing on other threads in this area, no response. Doing the belt, have oil leakage on RHS cam tower behind the drive gear. Gear is off, 3 bolts out, key out , seal out, but the bearing plate is solid as a rock. The joint to the cam housing is tight, no way to get anything in there. Have tried light tapping from the back, but there is little room to work with. Not game to try a puller, as the plate is quite thin.
Any tips please. I have seals and Orings coming, as there is visible weepage around the back.

Dont bother - based on local advice, a 2 leg puller only tightened by hand, lots of tapping in the back, tightening, tapping....about 1.5 hours of that and its out.

Why do Porsche call the keys Woodruff, when they certainly are NOT those? Some are correctly called 'feather' keys, but 'woodruff' also.
thanks
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

rjtw

Glad you got it out! Do you have all four seals on order, per side, plus the distributor shaft seal? I'll also recommend replacing the seals on the cover plates at the back end of the cam housings with the silicone version available from Roger, and check your oil filler for tightness if you haven't already done so. Are you also replacing the oil pump seals and/or crank seal while you're there? I did all the above recently on my 16V (along with timing belt/water pump and all belt rollers, and replacing the cam pulleys and the oil pump pulley) and they were all definitely due for replacement! Oh, and don't forget to either order new cam pulley bolts and washers or, at a minimum as Stan suggested, lightly scuff sand the back of the existing cam pulley washers so that when the concave side is placed against the cam pulley and the bolt tightened, they help ensure that the pulley does not move relative to the camshaft. Any movement there can apparently likely lead to a crack in the pulley.

jpitman2

Have previously done the rear cover plates recently and the front crank seal. Oil pump seems dry, but have the seals and Oring. Doing the cam and oil pump gears this time. Will do the scuffing on the washers. Seems most people either dont pull the front bearing, or its easy.
thanks
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

rjtw

Yeah, my cam front plates had never been off before but I was able to walk them off the cam housings pretty easily by hand. What was holding yours on, was it a baked on O-ring?

jpitman2

Looking at my cam bolt washers, they look like they were fitted last one each way? The pdf I am working from (D Brownridge, on a 79) says flat face to the cam wheel. There is no 'concave' face that I can see, just one side has small bevels on 6 points. WSM confirms :- on P15-6a : Position correctly, flat surface faces sprocket.

Replacing the cam wheels and oil pump gear - all badly worn, cam seals and Orings.
REfitting the bearing plate cleaned and lightly oiled is still pretty tight....
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

rjtw

If you upgrade to the new steel version of the oil pump pulley, be sure to remove the 1mm washer behind the original aluminum pulley -- it's not used with the steel version.

If your washers are flat, and to protect those new cam pulleys, I'd highly recommend getting all new bolts AND washers. The big washers when new are clearly concave.

Some more info and advice here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post15657856

Good luck, you're making great progress!

Regularstormy

Those cam plates are a pain, I found if one side is pulled even .0005mm more than the other side, might as well push it back on and start over. Apparently need like an 8 arm puller to keep it as even as porsche intended.