Slow Crank - No Start Issue '89
07-20-2019, 04:52 PM
#46
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Not sure where you are at this point, After all the probing and trying to start you probably need to give the battery a charge. Best not to use a "pack" that puts a fast charge on at 928. Most of us keep a Battery Maintainer hooked up unless it is a daily driver. The fact that the stereo guys mentioned the alternator also indicates they are aware of amps and battery issues. Still good to have the computers checked, but batt must be in good condition and charge to start this car.
07-20-2019, 04:54 PM
#47
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Based on the info you have confirmed it would seem that either your LH is up the spout or the CPS is. If the CPS is shot you will not get a spark- the whole point of trying a timing light [if you have a suitable one] is to determine whether you have a spark [or not]. No ignition discharge no timing light flashing. If all else fails you could try cranking with a spark plug out of the engine and looking for a spark.
would tach bounce if CPS was dead? I get tach bounce. I’ll send LH to Louis Ott. Might change to upgraded alternator also.
07-20-2019, 05:29 PM
#48
Tach bounce means you have a functioning CPS. It could still be bad I guess but I would move on for the moment.
Walmart can test your battery. I took my 2 year old one there and their equipment failed it. Disbelieving, I took it to an auto parts store and an hour later it passed with flying colors, did that two more times before waking up and buying a new one and resolving the issue. So Walmart’s equipment must be superior, or it was a fluke. Either way you should start with that battery, but that just my opinion, and it’s Saturday so you can’t ship your computers anyway and the alternator is a separate issue from actually starting the car. You can check it with a multimeter right now, it should be 12.30v or better and not sinking.
I think what some people are asking you is: With your fuel pump relay jumpered, will the car start? I don’t think that you’ve tried to do that yet. You can use an old 53 relay with electrical tape wrapped around it as I mentioned to jumper that relay, once inserted you will hear the fuel pump running at the rear of the car, then just turn the key to start don’t push the pedal to add extra gas, it doesn’t need that.
Checking for spark. Pull a plug, or it you have a spare plug use that! Pull a spark plug wire and install the spark plug, ground the plug to something on the engine / body and turn the key to crank, you should see (hopefully) a pretty spark flickering.
Walmart can test your battery. I took my 2 year old one there and their equipment failed it. Disbelieving, I took it to an auto parts store and an hour later it passed with flying colors, did that two more times before waking up and buying a new one and resolving the issue. So Walmart’s equipment must be superior, or it was a fluke. Either way you should start with that battery, but that just my opinion, and it’s Saturday so you can’t ship your computers anyway and the alternator is a separate issue from actually starting the car. You can check it with a multimeter right now, it should be 12.30v or better and not sinking.
I think what some people are asking you is: With your fuel pump relay jumpered, will the car start? I don’t think that you’ve tried to do that yet. You can use an old 53 relay with electrical tape wrapped around it as I mentioned to jumper that relay, once inserted you will hear the fuel pump running at the rear of the car, then just turn the key to start don’t push the pedal to add extra gas, it doesn’t need that.
Checking for spark. Pull a plug, or it you have a spare plug use that! Pull a spark plug wire and install the spark plug, ground the plug to something on the engine / body and turn the key to crank, you should see (hopefully) a pretty spark flickering.
07-20-2019, 05:38 PM
#49
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Tach bounce means you have a functioning CPS. It could still be bad I guess but I would move on for the moment.
Walmart can test your battery. I took my 2 year old one there and their equipment failed it. Disbelieving, I took it to an auto parts store and an hour later it passed with flying colors, did that two more times before waking up and buying a new one and resolving the issue. So Walmart’s equipment must be superior, or it was a fluke. Either way you should start with that battery, but that just my opinion, and it’s Saturday so you can’t ship your computers anyway and the alternator is a separate issue from actually starting the car. You can check it with a multimeter right now, it should be 12.30v or better and not sinking.
I think what some people are asking you is: With your fuel pump relay jumpered, will the car start? I don’t think that you’ve tried to do that yet. You can use an old 53 relay with electrical tape wrapped around it as I mentioned to jumper that relay, once inserted you will hear the fuel pump running at the rear of the car, then just turn the key to start don’t push the pedal to add extra gas, it doesn’t need that.
Checking for spark. Pull a plug, or it you have a spare plug use that! Pull a spark plug wire and install the spark plug, ground the plug to something on the engine / body and turn the key to crank, you should see (hopefully) a pretty spark flickering.
Walmart can test your battery. I took my 2 year old one there and their equipment failed it. Disbelieving, I took it to an auto parts store and an hour later it passed with flying colors, did that two more times before waking up and buying a new one and resolving the issue. So Walmart’s equipment must be superior, or it was a fluke. Either way you should start with that battery, but that just my opinion, and it’s Saturday so you can’t ship your computers anyway and the alternator is a separate issue from actually starting the car. You can check it with a multimeter right now, it should be 12.30v or better and not sinking.
I think what some people are asking you is: With your fuel pump relay jumpered, will the car start? I don’t think that you’ve tried to do that yet. You can use an old 53 relay with electrical tape wrapped around it as I mentioned to jumper that relay, once inserted you will hear the fuel pump running at the rear of the car, then just turn the key to start don’t push the pedal to add extra gas, it doesn’t need that.
Checking for spark. Pull a plug, or it you have a spare plug use that! Pull a spark plug wire and install the spark plug, ground the plug to something on the engine / body and turn the key to crank, you should see (hopefully) a pretty spark flickering.
I tried to start it with the relay jumpered. It did not start. I haven’t pulled s plug and tried to start yet.
07-20-2019, 07:01 PM
#52
Nordschleife Master
07-20-2019, 08:17 PM
#53
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Update!!!
i put the old relay for the defrost back in, the one without a cover and the one that when I move from side to side will make the blower blow even without the car on. The car fired up. I drove it for about 30 minutes and no issues at all. Got home, turned it off and it fired back up again. I’m gonna let it sit for about 30 minutes and try it again.
Can the LH come & go in and out or if it’s dead it’s dead?
i put the old relay for the defrost back in, the one without a cover and the one that when I move from side to side will make the blower blow even without the car on. The car fired up. I drove it for about 30 minutes and no issues at all. Got home, turned it off and it fired back up again. I’m gonna let it sit for about 30 minutes and try it again.
Can the LH come & go in and out or if it’s dead it’s dead?
07-20-2019, 08:22 PM
#54
Update!!!
i put the old relay for the defrost back in, the one without a cover and the one that when I move from side to side will make the blower blow even without the car on. The car fired up. I drove it for about 30 minutes and no issues at all. Got home, turned it off and it fired back up again. I’m gonna let it sit for about 30 minutes and try it again.
Can the LH come & go in and out or if it’s dead it’s dead?
i put the old relay for the defrost back in, the one without a cover and the one that when I move from side to side will make the blower blow even without the car on. The car fired up. I drove it for about 30 minutes and no issues at all. Got home, turned it off and it fired back up again. I’m gonna let it sit for about 30 minutes and try it again.
Can the LH come & go in and out or if it’s dead it’s dead?
Congratulations! 💥
Order the correct relay for that position and be done with the blower issue. It’s probably the wrong version. Relay charts are at 928gt.com website.
The LH can deteriorate over time but I doubt that yours is doing that at the moment. Plan on getting it rebuilt through Louis at your next opportunity though to get it done and not question it again for another 30 years or so.
07-20-2019, 10:01 PM
#56
Team Owner
Glad you figured it out
NOW
It would be wise to instead of continued testing to do a proper fuse and relay cleaning and deoxit of the CE panel.
Note if this had been done first the chances of you having a properly running machine would have gone up and saved you a bunch of tail chasing
A relay inspect includes looking at the part numbers on your relays and verifying the proper location and that all of the relays have no corrosion on the pins any that have corrosion should be opened to inspect or replaced
Any fuses that have a loose fit should also be investigated
NOW
It would be wise to instead of continued testing to do a proper fuse and relay cleaning and deoxit of the CE panel.
Note if this had been done first the chances of you having a properly running machine would have gone up and saved you a bunch of tail chasing
A relay inspect includes looking at the part numbers on your relays and verifying the proper location and that all of the relays have no corrosion on the pins any that have corrosion should be opened to inspect or replaced
Any fuses that have a loose fit should also be investigated
07-20-2019, 10:07 PM
#57
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Post the defrost relay part numbers old and new when you have a chance, please. Crazier stuff has kept cars from starting.
07-20-2019, 10:22 PM
#58
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There is not a part number for the defrost relay. There is no cover. I have the number from the relay chart. I’ll call Roger. He has saved me numerous times.
07-20-2019, 10:24 PM
#59
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Glad you figured it out
NOW
It would be wise to instead of continued testing to do a proper fuse and relay cleaning and deoxit of the CE panel.
Note if this had been done first the chances of you having a properly running machine would have gone up and saved you a bunch of tail chasing
A relay inspect includes looking at the part numbers on your relays and verifying the proper location and that all of the relays have no corrosion on the pins any that have corrosion should be opened to inspect or replaced
Any fuses that have a loose fit should also be investigated
NOW
It would be wise to instead of continued testing to do a proper fuse and relay cleaning and deoxit of the CE panel.
Note if this had been done first the chances of you having a properly running machine would have gone up and saved you a bunch of tail chasing
A relay inspect includes looking at the part numbers on your relays and verifying the proper location and that all of the relays have no corrosion on the pins any that have corrosion should be opened to inspect or replaced
Any fuses that have a loose fit should also be investigated
07-20-2019, 10:38 PM
#60
Stan was saying check all of your relays to be certain that you have the correct ones installed (there are different versions of the same relay differentiated by the last two digits), and then clean the CE panel (battery disconnected) with perhaps a good quality electrical cleaner and then apply Deoxit D100 before reinstalling the fuses and relays. Don’t use sandpaper on your relays, fuses, or the CE panel. Stan likes erasers, works for me if needed. It’s pretty basic.