TRUESCOTSMAN

Do i need the flywheel lock tool to remove the crank bolt or is there another clever way of getting this bolt out.

928 S4 1991, red. Linen leather, 18" BBS spilt rim alloys

Lizard928

you dont need the flywheel lock tool if you have an impact gun, w/o an impact gun you will need the lock

Garth S

I certainly favour the flywheel lock, but there are other ways - some of which are clever, others which are.....
If the rad is out, there's adequate room to use an air impact (1/2") tool, and this is perhaps the least stressful of all - if you have a compressor, etc.
With a 5-sp xmission,in gear and emergency brake on (or a helper standing on the brakes), will allow the freedom to lean on a long breaker bar to torque the 27mm #@*&$.
Removing the ~1" rubber inspection plug beneath the ring gear (lower bell housing) will allow a helper to wedge a large pry bar into the teeth of the ring gear whilst thou again apply the breaker bar....
Lastly, and not for the faint of heart, is to wedge the breaker bar and 27mm socket assembly tightly over the bolt and with the bar handle firmly against the floor and pointing to the LEFT side - pause (perhaps take time for a stiff drink), climb inside and decisively hit the starter -briefly!!!
This latter 'technique' works, is definitely not factory, and can have a certain entertainment value - practice on a car other than your own is recommended.
I'm sure there are other methods too riducleous to mention, although I can't push the envelope further without laughing. Curious as to which you will select - good luck.

TRUESCOTSMAN

Thanks for the replies.... The car is an auto so the fifth gear idea is out. and as for turning it over with the starter with the wrench on the 27mm bolt, not a bad idea, but would prefer to try something not as potentially damaging.
I was wanting to get this done tomorrow, thats why i was not able to wait for a lock tool. Take a couple of weeks to come.
I think i will have a go at making one tomorrow. i have a welder and various bits of steel lying around.
I have had a look and a wiggle at the various components surrounding the t belt and nothing appears to be all that worn, the tensioner i can push back with my finger though. is this normal? how much pressure do these exert?

928 S4 1991 auto, red. Linen leather, 18" BBS spilt rim alloys

GlenL

My tensioner is pretty stiff.

The flywheel lock goes into the clutch slave hole on the lower bellhousing. As you have an automatic, there'll just be a plate.

With a welder and some metal pieces, I'd expect you could fab up something. Certainly inside of two weeks!

Garth S

More info = better response, so it's an auto: then, the sane choices are the lock or the prybar in the inspection port. The starter trick was includer with enough 'cautionary dialogue', to indicate it not being my first choice ( even though it works. ( I just can't shake the image of a breaker bar handle shot halfway through the hood! roflmao
The tensioner exerts no pressure in any sense other than mechanical: when the tensioner is properly assembled, it cannot be further compressed by the 'average' superhuman thumb - the piston rod supporting the belville washer stack has 4mm of freeboard prior to bottoming out in the well of the bottom piston: therefore, with the TB under correct tension, the max. movement 'x' of the upper piston/rod is 4mm>x>0mm.

TRUESCOTSMAN

Yes Garth, that 's about the image i was cunjering up in my mind too.
As for the tensioner, when i push the tensioner wheel towards the tensioner it goes back at least 1/4 inch, I have ran the can about 5k miles since i got it and had no t belt messages until now. The t belt message was accompanied by a rattle which i put down to a possible water pump failure, causing the belt to go slack. Front end is now stripped down except the crank pulley and belt , and as far as i can tell with the belt still on, nothing has any play other than the tensioner roller can be pushed back.The adjuster does not appear to have slackened off. No doubt i will get a better idea once the pulley and belt are removed. I hope. Thanks.

928 S4 1991 auto, red. Linen leather, 18" BBS spilt rim alloys

Garth S

Aha, the 1/4" movement is the compression of the coil spring in the nose of the tensioner: this spring is an essential part of the TB warning system - more descriptive in MBMB's recent thread on TB joys).
A 'rattle' could well be the water pump - spin every roller, pump, etc.: anything less than silky smooth gets replaced. The std. approach is to replace every rotating piece save the oil pump and cogged gears; check the latter for a wear pattern.
I'm gone -my dogs are back at the door, after rousing me at this $#@& hour to go out..

Chucker

If you need the tool you could borrow mine. I bought if for the TB job and now it's in the car for the next job.

Drewster67

Way back when, I used a plumbers chain - worked great!.

TRUESCOTSMAN

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/junior928.jpg

jon928se

Range Rover - the ultimate flywheel lock.




Sort of xposted from


https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=114781



Jon

Vlocity

One additional way is to remove a spark plug and insert a section of clean
rope. Tie a knot on the end first so you don't lose it in the cylinder and then gently rotate the engine until you compress the piston against your new "stop".

TRUESCOTSMAN

Objective achieved. Victory dance in progress. Made up a lock tool from the pictures i have seen of one. ( See topic post for photo.)

Water pump is definately shot. Hopefully the bits i need from 928 intl should get here soon, and i will be able to start rebuilding.
Thanks for the assistance
Jim

gosbollen

Anyone got a blueprint (right word?) for this flywheel lock?