Seat removal
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Seat removal
New puzzle....there is an '80 5sp that just arrived in our local "pick and pull" It got hit or it hit something really hard on the right front and also the rear.
The seats are excellent both front and rear. With no power to move them fore and aft is there a trick to removing them? I can get to one of the #5 allen bolts in the front but the rears are not accessable.
I would think a sawsall would be the ticket but the yard will not allow power tools or torches. Hate to see these go to the crusher. The fuse panel is out.
Dash is good as well as the pod. These I can remove.
The seats are excellent both front and rear. With no power to move them fore and aft is there a trick to removing them? I can get to one of the #5 allen bolts in the front but the rears are not accessable.
I would think a sawsall would be the ticket but the yard will not allow power tools or torches. Hate to see these go to the crusher. The fuse panel is out.
Dash is good as well as the pod. These I can remove.
#2
Nordschleife Master
Option one is the allen head under the front of the seat. It turns a gear that turns the motor. It goes very slowly. There's a tooth missing from the gear (on purpose), so it feels like it's stripped and jumping.
Option two is to pull the drive cables from the motor and turn them directly. One side is attached with a clip, the other side (the side with the gear) is bolted on.
I used a pair of cordless drills to drive the two cables. You have to keep them reasonably synched up or the seat will bind.
Option two is to pull the drive cables from the motor and turn them directly. One side is attached with a clip, the other side (the side with the gear) is bolted on.
I used a pair of cordless drills to drive the two cables. You have to keep them reasonably synched up or the seat will bind.
#3
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
Member
'80 doesn't have seat memory so power connection is darn simple under the eat. Reach under and disconnect, pull the seat side cable out, connect your handy 12V portable power supply, run the seat motors.
Power seat power in 1980 cars is fed through a pair of 1.5mm^2 wires, red with yellow tracer. They split out right at the connector at L2. If the gorillas didn't cut the harness ends off as they removed the CE panel, you should be able to find them pretty easily and push 12V there to run the seat motors.
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I replace UPS batteries on a 2-years schedule, and harvest the best of the removed batteries to keep for such emergencies. I also inherited a portable battery-operated compressor from someone, one that has a cigarette-lighter socket on it for powering accessories. Has a 12V AGM battery in it, and is usually the recipient of the best of the harvested UPS batteries. The smaller batteries fit easily in the bottom of a tool bag. with mini booster-cables from the 928.
Power seat power in 1980 cars is fed through a pair of 1.5mm^2 wires, red with yellow tracer. They split out right at the connector at L2. If the gorillas didn't cut the harness ends off as they removed the CE panel, you should be able to find them pretty easily and push 12V there to run the seat motors.
----
I replace UPS batteries on a 2-years schedule, and harvest the best of the removed batteries to keep for such emergencies. I also inherited a portable battery-operated compressor from someone, one that has a cigarette-lighter socket on it for powering accessories. Has a 12V AGM battery in it, and is usually the recipient of the best of the harvested UPS batteries. The smaller batteries fit easily in the bottom of a tool bag. with mini booster-cables from the 928.
#4
Rennlist Member
There is a lever deep under the seat on the drivers side that allows the seat to move fore and aft without power. At least the comfort seats had this. Not sure about the 911 seats but those were an optional downgrade and usually manual.
#6
Rennlist Member
Do you have a picture of this?
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
After I took these pics I had to go back home and get more tools. upon my return the CE panel was gone and some other bits. It won't last long as the vultures are circling.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the tips. I had an old jumper box that I never used and I adapted to connect the wires under the seat and got the seats to move fore and aft.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
One problem was that the floor pan under the drivers seat was buckledi it made getting under tough. But I got them both out. Just took time.