Ed Petry

Hi everyone,

I have limited space to raise my 928 and am looking for solutions to help solve this issue. I am able to access one side of the 928 but the other is not as accessible. The rear is not the issue, my issue is the front where you need to lift one side then the other. One idea suggested is to use a cross bar mounted to a floor jack. This idea intrigues me but I have doubts as to the practicality of this solution.

Has anyone used this arrangement to lift their vehicle?

Harbor Freight sells a bar to raise the front of a 928?

https://www.harborfreight.com/steel-...eam-60762.html

What does everyone thing about this solution?


Thanks in advance.

76FJ55

Assuming that cross bar is stable on your jack, I don't see why it wouldn't work. you could place it below the lower control arm forward mount and jack from the center. the biggest challenge may be height getting the jack and adapter under the car.

SeanR

If you are trying to get all 4 wheels off the ground, jack the rear up at the crossmember and put jack stands at the lift points. Move to the front and put the jack in the center of the cross member, raise it and put the jack stands at the front lift points.

Wisconsin Joe

How are you planning on getting that setup under the front of the car?

I have a HF "Low Profile" jack and it barely goes under the spoiler. I have my doubts that that crossbar will fit under the tow hooks/Lower Control Arm (LCA) mounts.

If I'm just jacking up the front end, I usually go from the front and lift at the LCA front mounts. Jack stands then go under the LCA rear mounts

hacker-pschorr

+1

I don't think it's common knowledge you can jack up the whole front or rear of the car from these locations.

The Harbor Freight long reach low profile jack just fits under my lowered 79's front spoiler, but only if I jack up the front first.

dr bob

For later cars with full undertrays, there is no access to front lift points except for the factory lift pads.

For storage my car sits on four stands against a wall on the passenger side. To get there, I lift the left side from left rear point to a tall stand left front in two steps. Then lift the rear high from the middle of the crossmember, with roller jack and a block. A tall stand goes under the right rear. Now the car will rock easily on the opposite corners, so I put a stand under the right front at the same height as left front. Then lift from the rear crossmember again to place a stand under the left rear. Car sits three clicks up on 6T stands until spring. It’s high enough to work under if needed. Perhaps more important it’s above easy mouse height with the wheels removed.

Geza

^ I use this approach - Jack up accessible rear as high as needed to place stand on same side front point. Move jack to rear X-member and raise. Add stand to rear point on inaccessible side and lower jack. Car will now balance on the two stands and the inaccessible front corner can be manually, carefully raised to add a stand there. Once on 3 stands, I raise the jack at the rear X-member for additional security. Of course, the jack has to be wheeled and free to roll.

Ed Petry

Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

@Sean—I like your suggestion. Yet, showing my lack of underneath knowledge. Does an ‘81 OB have a solid cross member clear of the steering rack? I have been advised to not use the middle of the vehicle to jack as it is not like the 944 with it’s solid cross member.

dr bob

The front crossmember is a reinforced box while the bottom plate is installed. Use a block of wood on your jack to make sure that load is transferred at the front and rear faces of the crossmember, and you'll be plenty safe to lift the front of the car from the middle of that crossmember. At that point, the steering rack is along for the ride and totally not stressed by the load.

davek9

I'll throw this suggestion in, do the Front first, then the rear cross member.
If you start with the Rear, it will decrease your available space between the ground and front spoiler.

If you need a bit more clearance space, jack up the front Side jack points first and lower car slowly, or use a bottle jack or a smaller floor jack.
On '87 and up when the Under tray(s) are in place, options for front are the side jack points or Lift bars
Place some jack stands under front suspension mounts and remove the trays then use the front cross brace where the steering rack is.

Dave K

Tomkat80222

What ever method you use, I recommend one of these jacks. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...ump-64264.html. With the low profile, solid support, smooth movement and high jacking ability, you will avoid problems. I had a $400 accident with a cheaper jack. These jacks are on sale this month as well with a coupon.

Ed Petry

Thanks everyone. Appreciate the help.

upstate bob

Ideally you would first buy a good two post lift, a bunch of tools, and THEN the 928. -But then you would also buy and pay for a house before you start a family
disclaimer: I also put the cart before the horse, but eventually bought the horse.
79 5sp, petrol blue
62 bug
29 Ford tudor
03 Suzuki Aerio
Kolb MkIII with Suzuki G10 engine
Massey Harris 20
Case 530 backhoe
Allis Chalmers G
Minneapolis Moline BFW
John Deere 4320 compact
Gravely model L
Yazoo hydraulic/Kohler
Rotary asymmetrical lift -lifts them all

dr bob

I have a lift for working on the car, but still need to use a roller jack and stands to place the car for winter storage. I have a regular-sized aluminum roller jack, "supplemented" with a 4x6 block for some extra height when needed. The block isn't ideal but it gets the job done a couple times a year, getting the car on and off the 6T storage stands. On the group's recommendation I may go take a hard look at the long-reach low-profile Harbor Freight jack https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...nge-64241.html. That one will lift the car a couple feet up at the pads without adding the block, so would be a lot safer.

Access direction is critical when using a roller jack, and the ability to move/roll freely is similarly critical. When placing the car on four stands, the jack must be able to roll so that you don't pull or push the car off the stands. The 3T stands are more vulnerable to overturning than the 6T when at the same height, thanks to their smaller footprint. A large part of the storage-on-stands strategy is to have the car up high enough to make critter access at least inconvenient. I guess I need to look at the max available 6T stand extension to see if the long-frame jack will buy much more height than I have now. The stands sit on plywood pads on the tiled floor, plus have keyed hockey-puck lift-point protectors on top.

A determined mouse can jump a foot vertically, and use the dangling suspension bits for access. I'll still need the bagged mothballs. Now that the car is out of storage, there's access to add a couple low outlets on that storage wall for ultrasonic pest repellers too. My peanut butter baited bucket trap only nabbed a few critters this year. I'm not sure if that's good or bad. Were there only that few, or did a lot of them get away? None found at all in the conventional traps. I used premium peanut butter too.

Wisconsin Joe

They won't pass up peanut butter.

If you aren't finding dead ones in the traps, they likely aren't there.