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Unless you have little kids and/or tiny friends ditch the rear seat...
Or do a small.projext and make it a convertible.
Then you pick up enough headroom to have the seat further forward and more upright, actually makng the rear seats very usable. The rear seats of my 928 are actually more usable than those in my 997.
great suggestion and looks like it fits as well. I compared the specs to the Alpine unit that some others use and is a touch smaller in all specs, so should be good. The price is right so I may give that one a try!
@Hans hopefully you are listening and will chime in on whether you are interested in another run of Sharwoofer V2. Alternatively would you be able to provide plans us DYI folk?
I'm regularly amused by high-powered audio stuff that uses tiny power feeds and fuses. Needs 50 amp fuses and wiring minimum to make the 600W peak rating, ASSuming 100% efficiency. As it is, it will need to be 130% efficient just to hold the installed fuse, and some superconductor wiring to plug into the 14ga-max pins on the power plug. Good news is that it isn't expensive.
Will likely be fine at sane listening levels. I think the marketing guys tend to look for "alternative truths" when it comes to performance "ratings".
I'm regularly amused by high-powered audio stuff that uses tiny power feeds and fuses. Needs 50 amp fuses and wiring minimum to make the 600W peak rating, ASSuming 100% efficiency. As it is, it will need to be 130% efficient just to hold the installed fuse, and some superconductor wiring to plug into the 14ga-max pins on the power plug. Good news is that it isn't expensive.
Will likely be fine at sane listening levels. I think the marketing guys tend to look for "alternative truths" when it comes to performance "ratings".
Edit...
Just occurred to me the rating of that PPI sub box is for the sub, not the amplifier......
This is DC current at nominal battery voltage, and Watts are Watts. 1 Watt is 1 Amp at 1 Volt, so 600 watts peak rated will be 50 amps at 12 Volts assuming 100% amplifier efficiency. Remember that the amps are heaters in their spare time, so you'll want to add the power to run the heater (the inefficiency....) Fuse is too small, wire capacity of that connector is too small. If the Voltage and current aren't there to make 600 Watts times 100/efficiency%, you'll get clipping as you run out of power. The "RMS" rating is half that per the label, so the installed fuse and the wire size may be closer but still way short, as the actual available peak power will be the same as the rated RMS. ASSuming pure sine wave inputs, the RMS will be about 65% of max available peak Watts under the best circumstances, again derated by 100/efficiency% at best.
A noisy car is hardly a perfect soundstage, and clipping at higher levels will still be masked by the typical >75dB of car cabin noise. The distortion from the amp won't be noticed in that environment.
Ever wonder why the "competition" systems have extra batteries and massive alternator upgrades, 00 welding cables in parallel for power to the amps? You won't get any more out of the system than you put in.
Lowering the impedance of the speakers means more current at less voltage is needed to convert the same number of Watts. With that current increase you'll want bigger speaker conductors, but the primary wiring to the amp stays the same for the same number of output Watts. Many mobile amplifiers are limited in how much voltage they are able to make internally from a 12V car system, so lower impedance speakers help out some. It's still just a math exercise in the end.
The mold was destroyed on the last production run.
It would be an estimated $5k to remake the tool. So, unless you guys are willing to pay a ridiculous amount for one, or there was deposits from a large number of people to front the tooling costs, this product will remain retired. I got lucky on the first tool, and it was about half that. That shop is no longer in business.
Disregard MAX ratings. Only pay attention to rms ratings, which are the amount of watts that the amp can put out continuously, or the amount a speaker can take continuously.
Sensitivity is a whole other ball game as far as efficiency ratings go for these things.
I'm regularly amused by high-powered audio stuff that uses tiny power feeds and fuses. Needs 50 amp fuses and wiring minimum to make the 600W peak rating, ASSuming 100% efficiency. As it is, it will need to be 130% efficient just to hold the installed fuse, and some superconductor wiring to plug into the 14ga-max pins on the power plug. Good news is that it isn't expensive.
Will likely be fine at sane listening levels. I think the marketing guys tend to look for "alternative truths" when it comes to performance "ratings".
party pooper, I know.
Exactly what he said. ^^^ For those not skilled in analog power audio ratings, anything within about 2 meters through a quality speaker driven by roughly 40 watts will do permanent ear damage, and may cause other medical issues, including permanent headaches, ruptured ear drums, etc. Also the 'wattage' ratings are pure fantasy. There are four basic ratings of 'watts', and the realistic rating of 600W is actually more like 191 actual audio power(600/2x0.637). Still enough to do serious damage, but don't be fooled by a huge number.
I have a vintage tube amp called a McIntosh 240. It uses four tubes to produce two channels of 40 RMS watts each. Connected to quality 8 ohm speakers will shake the walls and windows of my living room. So, fuggedaabbout anything over 100 watts, it's useless unless you want to do harm to your body.
edit: For the post above by Blake, one does not typically use the RMS value for the work product(sound production, heating value, radiant energy, etc) of the power. So, for those work products of AC power, one uses Vavg, which is the equivalent value of the power of the wave which would be the same as a steady state DC wattage. But, it is very common to see wattage mis-labeled as Peak*RMS, or 0.707(sine of 45deg).
Hi, friends. I was cleaning out my '89 today and when I was in the spare tire well, I noticed that one of the previous owners had installed and removed an 8" subwoofer speaker that was attached to the inside of the spare tire cover panel. There was a large hole drilled out and mesh top covered in fabric that allowed the speaker sound to go through.
I'm considering putting something there to replace it since the sound could use a little more bass to it. I have a Becker C220 supporting the door and rear speakers, and am looking for a relatively inexpensive way to add bass. Anyone have any suggestions based on my setup?
I initially went for a wheel well sub, but decided that it wasn't quite good enough. I've never used the boot space for anything more than my laptop bag, so can easily sacrifice some:
My compact Pioneer amps will do 90 watts/channel RMS bridged. They run clean way after being too loud for me. They draw about 1 amp during this time (on a 14 gauge wire with a 15 amp fuse).
True confessions: A buddy of mine had the big Pioneer 165 watt receiver and JBL L166s back in the day (1978). The analog power meters read ~1 watt while we listened to "I Feel Love" at about 7 out of 10 - club volumes and painful by the end of the song. To this day, "I Feel Love" is one of my key stereo test benchmarks.
1 watt average in a car is going to blow your ears out. I got this subwoofer and amp - super easy install and you can keep your spare tire. They passed the "I Feel Love" test.
Power isn't just about volume, it's about clarity, and about clarity at volume. In my case running 85 mph with the top down, if you actually want to hear the music, and not have it sound like the teacher from the Peanuts cartoon, you need power and heavy gauge wire (like 6 or 8). Is it going to be crystal clear where I can hear the percussion triangle, no, but will I actually be able to hear the words to the songs and feel the air being moved from the door woofer with the bass, yes, sure can.
Am I the guy who shakes your car when it's next to me sitting at a traffic light - no chance.
02-17-2019, 07:25 PM
