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I had a similar problem because that cable is very special and has an antiparasitic shield, I decided to change it whole from the pins of the switchboard to the female connector, putting it back again and now everything is perfect, my problem was bad hot start and engine stop when jumping the electro fans, it was crazy until I managed to find out the problem.
Very good job, now to place the wiring and connectors in their housing, I shredded my hands to do it without disassembling anything but I got it, by the way that connector is not original bosch no?
Very good job, now to place the wiring and connectors in their housing, I shredded my hands to do it without disassembling anything but I got it, by the way that connector is not original bosch no?
I think the housing was provided by Roger. Not original to the car. The length of the '944' version of the CPS and location of the housing support are a challenge.
An update - no longer starts - well it starts, runs less than a minute and won't start again. Used to run for a couple of minutes before dying. Now not so much.
Only starts if the engine is cold - in other words, left for hours between tries.
Verified start includes tach bounce, noid light, spark and fuel pressure. All subsequent starts no noid, no spark and no tach bounce.
Background:
Engine out refresh
New FoE harness
New Injector harness end clips
Rebuilt Injectors
New Fuel Lines
New CPS
New OEM FP and LH relays
New spark Plugs and wires
LH computer swapped
Swapped Temp II sensor for known good one.
Waterbridge is not powder coated.
CE panel has not been out
No start:
EZK relay clicks
FP and LH do not
This is a strange one.
EDIT:
Vanster had a no start.
Greg wrote:Lost power or ground to fuel.pump relay. You can put common test light across "85" and "86) of the fuel pump relay socket (while cranking) to confirm this (relay out)..Then test each "85" and "86" individually to ground (while cranking) to see if you have power on either.
Following that I get nothing across 85-86 starting the car. 85 and 86 both test correctly to ground (light comes on) when the key is in the start position.
Last edited by Kevin in Atlanta; 03-16-2019 at 05:40 PM.
And after I replaced the FP relay it started, ran horrible, tach was dropping and rising, car backfired, cloud of exhaust spewing out the back and finally died. Now, no light during cranking between 85 and 86.