drscottsmith

All -

Have searched a couple of places but have a slightly different situation.

My hatch will not unlock with the key. This is an '83 US model, by the way, so no power release option.
Used to work just fine, but was misslng the lower section liner. That has been replaced, but shortly thereafter, I closed the hatch one day and now it will not open.

Here is where we are different...most have said when this happens that there is "no resistance" felt when turning the key (I assume this means it just spins and spins). On my car, turning to the left gathers resistance just as it always has (to lock the lock back after opening). Turning to the right used to unlock the lock, but now the key will not turn at all to the right. I only have the one key for the car, so I don't want to force and break it.

This is an alarm equipped car, so there is that to consider.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts...

-scott

Mrmerlin

put a spray of PB blaster into the lock cylinder,
then try pressing/holding the hatch into the closed position,
then turn the key to the right this should open it

drscottsmith

captainOCD

Hopefully not like my car where part of the pot metal mechanism broke in the cylinder.

drscottsmith

My housing is cracked. Wish we could come up with an alternative. Ive often wondered if any other german marques of the day used the same part on their hatches (Audi quattro, VW scirocco/golf come to mind).

-scott

Geza

Mine also has a crack. While taking it apart to change the plastic latch pawl, I looked closely at the design. The inside of the casting has a section (thickness) change right in the area of the crack. The resulting stress concentration is what led to the crack. I suppose Porsche gets a pass, as this type of failure mode is not readily identifiable, especially way back when analysis tools were basically non-existent. However, if they would have increased the fillet radius in those corners, in the casting, the failure would, most likely, be non-existent.

To improve the condition and hopefully prevent further propagation of the failure, I used a rough file to scrape away the paint and rough-up the surface of the inside corners (both sides); once cleaned, I packed the corners with JB-Weld Steel Stick to fortify them. Make sure you check the pawl action - that the JB Weld clears it. Considering how much that latch assembly costs to replace, I suspect it would be worth the time to do this.

C531XHO

Sounds like we are living parallel lives. Did your last latch break off completely as well...?

Geza

Last latch - no, this is my first; perhaps it will eventually, but I'm pretty sure I at least delayed total failure. How far along before addressed is also a factor, I'm sure. I think I caught mine pretty early on and am confident it will last. Who knows?

jpitman2

Mine had a crack in the upper tongue so I changed the whole assembly - top and bottom. Went from alarmed to non-alarmed. I suggest there is a disconnect internally between the barrel and the operating lever, whatever that looks like.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

captainOCD

This is the piece that works the cam to unlatch that broke on mine. I didn't see any way to put that back together. It's really thin where it broke.

928Myles

Gentlemen
Roger has access to some aftermarket stainless steel alarm style latch bodies.

Myles

C531XHO

why didn't you tell us that earlier..

GT6ixer

Hey Myles,

Are you still producing them or are the one's Roger has the last of the bunch?

928Myles

Nate
I understand that Roger still has 2 left.
I can produce more if he asks for them.

Myles

928Myles

It is hard to keep up with who knows about what on the forum at times.
When I first saw this thread it was when the OP's issue had been solved. It was not until I saw that there were a few more posts that I had another look at the thread and commented above.

Myles