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928 Electrical anomalies,gremlins, antidotes

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Old 01-27-2019, 06:36 PM
  #16  
Hymodyne
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Originally Posted by docmirror
Di-electric grease is an insulator. Remove it, and clean with De-Ox-It, and leave it bare. Only use di-electric in a location which is not supposed to conduct.
disc cleaned, headlights still illuminate only, motor does not drive lights up or down. bl/w or br/r when connected to #4 position on motor harness will rotate the headlights through their up/down cycle.

James
Old 08-09-2020, 02:19 PM
  #17  
Texas_Rose
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Question Smoke and Fire/Safety lamp in door

I'm a new adopter of a 82 928s. I'm really hoping someone out there can help with this issue, as I've already been round with a couple issues at the service shop and I really want to work on it myself. Thank you for being such a great community already! This is the issue:

The drivers door and general electrics were fiddled with during it's time at the shop because the were attempting to fix the power window issue (which they did...It was the switch connection).
My battery was drained in the process, so I purchased and installed another one the following day. It was replaced with a battery of the exact same specifications as the old one.
The following day I started the car to warm it up before a drive and a few minutes later I noticed smoke pouring from the drivers door (at the window where it was rolled down). When I cut power it stopped
Upon investigation if found the coupler for the little red safety light in the side of the door interior was the culprit and it was completely fried.
I removed the burnt electrics
As soon as the car is started the wire for that light, that now dangles there, is fire-hot. Obviously I can't drive it like that, so I'm grounded

Anyone deal with this? I'm obviously not opposed to deleting the safety light forever. Is the current running higher through that wire for some reason? Does my battery change have anything to do with it?

Help! :-)

Rose
Old 08-09-2020, 03:06 PM
  #18  
aerolithe
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I got a 1991 S4 with speedometer not working. A lot of peoples told me the ABS sensors on the front left was the probleme.
After checking all sensor, exchanging them no go.
Remove the cluster check and clean again all connections, no go
Found the relay to be the problem , Bad connection
Old 08-09-2020, 05:34 PM
  #19  
Alan
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
...Now the the other part of the story is that the rear wiper would buzz when the switch was pushed but it wouldnt cycle.
I removed the CE panel relay for the wipers and cleaned it and installed it and now the rear wiper is cycling as it should.
Stan - Rear wiper relay is at the back next to the motor - the front relay has no interaction with it.

Alan
Old 08-09-2020, 05:53 PM
  #20  
Christopher Zach
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Weird one on my 86.5: The side mirrors normally work fine, but sometimes for no reason when I push "up" they go "outward" in adjustment. The insane part is when I turn on the defroster they work normally to go up again. Then a few minutes later are back to normal.

Even stranger: I disconnected both wires from the defroster to the driver's side mirror (the wires were damaged in the door), still happens. One of these days I'll just get a whole new driver's door harness.
Old 08-09-2020, 06:03 PM
  #21  
Alan
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Originally Posted by Texas_Rose
I'm a new adopter of a 82 928s. I'm really hoping someone out there can help with this issue, as I've already been round with a couple issues at the service shop and I really want to work on it myself. Thank you for being such a great community already! This is the issue:

The drivers door and general electrics were fiddled with during it's time at the shop because the were attempting to fix the power window issue (which they did...It was the switch connection).
My battery was drained in the process, so I purchased and installed another one the following day. It was replaced with a battery of the exact same specifications as the old one.
The following day I started the car to warm it up before a drive and a few minutes later I noticed smoke pouring from the drivers door (at the window where it was rolled down). When I cut power it stopped
Upon investigation if found the coupler for the little red safety light in the side of the door interior was the culprit and it was completely fried.
I removed the burnt electrics
As soon as the car is started the wire for that light, that now dangles there, is fire-hot. Obviously I can't drive it like that, so I'm grounded

Anyone deal with this? I'm obviously not opposed to deleting the safety light forever. Is the current running higher through that wire for some reason? Does my battery change have anything to do with it?

Help! :-)

Rose
Its not the new battery - but it may be why the last battery died. You have a short on the Red wire - trace along it to find where - possibly in the lamp itself - take it out if required - they sometime rust through.

Alan



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