brakes
01-21-2019, 10:38 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Far be it from me to even suggest an improvement or clarification to Stan's recommendation, but I personally favor the Hawk Performance HP+ pads. I've had very good to excellent results on the street and even on the track. They may make some noise, but only my wife seems able to hear it.
SS brake lines will help if you have heat problems. I use Goodridge, they're DOT approved.
A power bleeder helps getting air out and I recommend the Motive.
I use ATE fluid exclusively.
PS: Zimmerman (as Stan suggests) slotted front rotors. I don't favor drilled since they'll crack and come apart sort of violently if you don't watch them like a hawk. If you're racing, or very vigilant, they're fine, but you can't get by with just installing them and forgetting. The slotted rotors work very well even with extreme use and they don't detonate on you without warning.
SS brake lines will help if you have heat problems. I use Goodridge, they're DOT approved.
A power bleeder helps getting air out and I recommend the Motive.
I use ATE fluid exclusively.
PS: Zimmerman (as Stan suggests) slotted front rotors. I don't favor drilled since they'll crack and come apart sort of violently if you don't watch them like a hawk. If you're racing, or very vigilant, they're fine, but you can't get by with just installing them and forgetting. The slotted rotors work very well even with extreme use and they don't detonate on you without warning.
01-22-2019, 04:22 PM
#17
Team Owner
ATE Blue has been removed from circulation from the EPA as they dont want a blue fluid being poured into the engine bay unless its washer fluid
The new replacement is Gold ATE brake fluid same fluid, new color its gold!
If you canfind a sealed can of blue fluid your good to go
The new replacement is Gold ATE brake fluid same fluid, new color its gold!
If you canfind a sealed can of blue fluid your good to go
01-22-2019, 05:27 PM
#18
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
It would help to know if the OP is experiencing the problem at all times in all circumstances. Does the problem occur when the brakes are cold? Is it continuous? That suggests air in the lines to me, leading to my suggestion of the Motive power bleeder. Maybe bleeding the hydraulics "yet again" is banal, but it may well be more effective and cheaper than replacing the master cylinder? Let's also consider that replacing the master will involve bleeding the entire system yet again?
I've found bleeding the hydraulics to be a repetitive and challenging process.
PS: I personally miss ATE Super Blue and would like to find a source for it.
I've found bleeding the hydraulics to be a repetitive and challenging process.
PS: I personally miss ATE Super Blue and would like to find a source for it.
01-22-2019, 08:35 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
ATE Blue has been removed from circulation from the EPA as they dont want a blue fluid being poured into the engine bay unless its washer fluid
The new replacement is Gold ATE brake fluid same fluid, new color its gold!
If you can find a sealed can of blue fluid your good to go
The new replacement is Gold ATE brake fluid same fluid, new color its gold!
If you can find a sealed can of blue fluid your good to go
Thank heavens we have the NTHSA (or whatever they call themselves) looking out for us and vigilantly wiping our runny noses...
01-22-2019, 09:06 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
BTW, for anyone who cares, you can find the dye used in ATE Super Blue here:
https://www.pylamdyes.com/products/i...l-applications
It's described as "LX-7270 PYLAM OIL BLUE"
I think you can get it in small batches from McMaster-Carr but I haven't tried yet. Pylam sends samples though and that might be good enough to do a few liters of ATE Gold.
https://www.pylamdyes.com/products/i...l-applications
It's described as "LX-7270 PYLAM OIL BLUE"
I think you can get it in small batches from McMaster-Carr but I haven't tried yet. Pylam sends samples though and that might be good enough to do a few liters of ATE Gold.
10-15-2020, 11:22 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
BTW, for anyone who cares, you can find the dye used in ATE Super Blue here:
https://www.pylamdyes.com/products/i...l-applications
It's described as "LX-7270 PYLAM OIL BLUE"
I think you can get it in small batches from McMaster-Carr but I haven't tried yet. Pylam sends samples though and that might be good enough to do a few liters of ATE Gold.
https://www.pylamdyes.com/products/i...l-applications
It's described as "LX-7270 PYLAM OIL BLUE"
I think you can get it in small batches from McMaster-Carr but I haven't tried yet. Pylam sends samples though and that might be good enough to do a few liters of ATE Gold.
10-16-2020, 08:57 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
@DSMblue :If I found the right stuff on McMaster, they call out 1 oz. per 50 gallons. A very little bit will go a long, long way, it seems.
This idea intrigues me greatly, as I have a lot of brake flushing to do in the near future. I might buy some of the blue and, if you're interested, would be happy to send you some.
Cheers
This idea intrigues me greatly, as I have a lot of brake flushing to do in the near future. I might buy some of the blue and, if you're interested, would be happy to send you some.
Cheers
Last edited by Zirconocene; 10-16-2020 at 09:00 AM.
10-19-2020, 06:25 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
@DSMblue :If I found the right stuff on McMaster, they call out 1 oz. per 50 gallons. A very little bit will go a long, long way, it seems.
This idea intrigues me greatly, as I have a lot of brake flushing to do in the near future. I might buy some of the blue and, if you're interested, would be happy to send you some.
Cheers
This idea intrigues me greatly, as I have a lot of brake flushing to do in the near future. I might buy some of the blue and, if you're interested, would be happy to send you some.
Cheers