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Old 01-21-2019, 10:38 PM
  #16  
jeff spahn
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Originally Posted by Otto Mechanic View Post
Far be it from me to even suggest an improvement or clarification to Stan's recommendation, but I personally favor the Hawk Performance HP+ pads. I've had very good to excellent results on the street and even on the track. They may make some noise, but only my wife seems able to hear it.

SS brake lines will help if you have heat problems. I use Goodridge, they're DOT approved.

A power bleeder helps getting air out and I recommend the Motive.

I use ATE fluid exclusively.

PS: Zimmerman (as Stan suggests) slotted front rotors. I don't favor drilled since they'll crack and come apart sort of violently if you don't watch them like a hawk. If you're racing, or very vigilant, they're fine, but you can't get by with just installing them and forgetting. The slotted rotors work very well even with extreme use and they don't detonate on you without warning.
Couple things here. I agree with drilled. I put them on my Honda Pilot for mountain trips then take them off for normal driving. I like my Hawk pads. But most of all. Get a Motive Products power bleeder!! My wife got me one for Christmas 4 years or so ago and I can't believe how much I use this thing. My car, my wife's, my Cayenne. All my work vehicles, my secretary's car, etc. Makes bleeding the brakes a very simple and easy task.
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Old 01-22-2019, 04:22 PM
  #17  
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ATE Blue has been removed from circulation from the EPA as they dont want a blue fluid being poured into the engine bay unless its washer fluid
The new replacement is Gold ATE brake fluid same fluid, new color its gold!
If you canfind a sealed can of blue fluid your good to go
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:27 PM
  #18  
dr bob
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Originally Posted by Otto Mechanic View Post
It would help to know if the OP is experiencing the problem at all times in all circumstances. Does the problem occur when the brakes are cold? Is it continuous? That suggests air in the lines to me, leading to my suggestion of the Motive power bleeder. Maybe bleeding the hydraulics "yet again" is banal, but it may well be more effective and cheaper than replacing the master cylinder? Let's also consider that replacing the master will involve bleeding the entire system yet again?

I've found bleeding the hydraulics to be a repetitive and challenging process.

PS: I personally miss ATE Super Blue and would like to find a source for it.
I have a home-made pre-Motiv power bleeder that started life as a 1gal garden sprayer. I do love it, but... I accidentally allowed the sprayer reservoir to run dry during a routine fluid swap, and pushed some air into the system. I tried multiple pressure bleeds, a couple two-person press-and bleed sessions, and a common consumer vacuum bleed session. None seemed to get the last bit of air out. I was living with the lower softer pedal for a while, then decided to go after the problem as part of a whole system refresh. Reverse-flushed individual sections of line after pulling a hard vacuum on all the plumbing. Particular attention was paid with vacuum to the ABS unit and the T between the rear calipers to get all the fugitive air out. That's what finally did it.
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Old 01-22-2019, 08:35 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
ATE Blue has been removed from circulation from the EPA as they dont want a blue fluid being poured into the engine bay unless its washer fluid
The new replacement is Gold ATE brake fluid same fluid, new color its gold!
If you can find a sealed can of blue fluid your good to go
Yep, that's what I was hoping to find somewhere, some "new old stock". It sounded like Dave might have a line on the stuff. Baring that, I've located the dye they use at McMaster-Carr so I'll mix up a batch for the next fluid change. Mostly I use it on the 944 to make sure I have a complete flush. Like everyone else, I alternated between Blue and Gold for that reason.

Thank heavens we have the NTHSA (or whatever they call themselves) looking out for us and vigilantly wiping our runny noses...
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Old 01-22-2019, 09:06 PM
  #20  
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BTW, for anyone who cares, you can find the dye used in ATE Super Blue here:

https://www.pylamdyes.com/products/i...l-applications

It's described as "LX-7270 PYLAM OIL BLUE"

I think you can get it in small batches from McMaster-Carr but I haven't tried yet. Pylam sends samples though and that might be good enough to do a few liters of ATE Gold.
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