928S MN

Scott,

If that water bridge is coming off, good time to install GB's oil separator. Only way it will fit under the oil filler neck is with the water bridge removed.

928NOOBIE

Upper right hand corner of this page....for the 928 Pentosin NF: http://www.pentosin.net/f_antifreeze.asp

Found it cheapest here:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/nf-...SABEgL2sPD_BwE

Ordered 5 bottles = 7.5liters X 2 (water) gives you what you need 14 liters....yes keep a little Pentosin back on the last bottle to keep it3 50/50.
I was also going to add Water Wetter...I have last time...any opinions?

928S MN

A well maintained 928 cooling system shouldn't need any water wetter.
Plus some water wetter formulations contain borates, which over time cause increased corrosion of aluminum. If you do add some, just do a little home work and make sure "no borate!"

928NOOBIE

Eh...I'll just leave it out..no sense causing the risk....appreciate the feedback 928S MN.

Otto Mechanic

Well, to be perfectly honest, the best time would probably have been the first one, back about 3 years ago when I bought it, along with a whole bunch of other parts, then managed to forget I had it until about a year after I'd finished the intake refresh and found it under a pile of empty shipping boxes on the far side of my bench...

Rest assured, I will not make that mistake twice

PS: It does make a person wonder how much of Greg's revenue is based on idiots like myself who order fancy custom parts then forget they ever bought them?

Otto Mechanic

I had the idea I might get the water bridge out without taking the entire intake off and thought I could maybe just remove the front intake runner without taking the fuel rails off again, but it seems like no such luck?

I've read several accounts of folks removing the water bridge on S4s without removing the intake, nothing about the S3s though. Anyone have experience? Can it be done with less effort than needed to take out the whole intake? Any pointers to procedures?

Thanks,

Otto Mechanic

Well, I have the intake runners exposed and the fuel rails off again. Luckily, since I've just finished replacing all the flexible fuel lines I only had to deal with one corroded fitting on the back of the driver's side rail that's connected to a hard line I didn't mess with. It succumbed to ATF+Acetone after a few minutes. Since the rails have been out recently they were no trouble at all. Bagged and ready to be re-installed.

Tomorrow the intake comes out then the water bridge and this all gets fixed up again.

I can't remember the secret handshake needed to get those Bosch fuel injector connections off. Anyone want to rent me a clue?

Otto Mechanic

Question: Is there a good anti-seize type of paste that works on these fuel lines when I re-assemble them?

Otto Mechanic

Well, strange though it might sound, I finished this project today only to discover I must have broken something in the process.

After the death of my mother's companion of 20 years last February and the ensuing 6 weeks of support she needed I developed a case of pneumonia that put me on the bench for April. I really didn't pick up my tools again until late May so now it's June and the whole thing is back together. FWIW, I've filled the coolant system with distilled water for the time being based on advice from folks who've said it's likely the best thing to use in these engines if they're in temperate climates that don't freeze (like Central California).

My problem is the car doesn't run now. I can start it but it dies. If I try feathering the throttle I can keep it lit for awhile, but it backfires and runs very rough.

My guess is one or more of the fuel injectors are messed up; either the wiring harness, the connector or the injector itself. I didn't remove any of the ignition wires, though I did unbolt the cables from the fuel rails. The ignition wires are new (less than two years old) Behr wires. They are arcing and I don't know why, but I don't suspect them at this point. Perhaps I should. I didn't disconnect the injectors from the harness, just remove them from the rails and bagged them in the engine bay.

My plan is to remove the intake side plenums again to access the injectors, remove relay IV (ignition) and turn the engine with a noid light connected to each injector connector to rule out the harness, then send all the injectors to Witchhunter if that doesn't reveal a problem.

Open to other suggestions.

SeanR

Since you had the water bridge off chances are the Temp II sensor/connector is messed up under the boot. Check that first. You didn't powder coat your water bridge did you?

Otto Mechanic

Sean -

No, I didn't powder coat the bridge, it wasn't removed during the first refresh (I'm now on #4). I did powder coat the entire intake and may have included the oil filler neck, I can't remember now. I know the bridge was never removed.

It's very possible the Temp II connectors are bad, they're crispy. I hit them with DeOxit before reinstalling but if the wires were damaged by removal and replacement that wouldn't have helped.

I'll assume that might be a cause? If so, it's a simple fix and I wouldn't need to pull the plenums again.

Thanks very much,

Otto Mechanic

Sean -

PS: Do you folks have those rubber boots in stock?

Thanks again,

Otto Mechanic

Began intake disassembly and decided to try the MAF test. I remember reading a post about diagnosing misfires that suggested disconnecting the MAF to see if the car ran better. In my case it starts right up and drops to idle and maintains it. It's a bit bumpy but way better than with the MAF connected. Reconnected the MAF, problem returned immediately; high tach on start (+2000) then drops to zero and dies in about 5 seconds.

Problem is, I can't remember what this means? Bad MAF or some other problem?

Otto Mechanic

Reset my MAF to 382 and tried again. No change. Runs without the MAF on default maps, dies with MAF connected.

Tested my spare MAF, pulled from my parts car, which was running at the time, and it reads 180 something. I may set it to 382 and try it tomorrow. The car is running very rich without the MAF of course, but it does run.

Otto Mechanic

Somehow lost my homebuilt Blink'r, can't find the thing anywhere, haven't used it since maybe 2014. Anyone remember how to build one?