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Electrical issues/ fuel injection

 
Old 01-08-2019, 12:13 PM
  #31  
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More advice. First, follow the advice above carefully. It will serve you well.

When you get down to the CE panel for refurb. Disconnect battery terminal. Remove EACH fuse, clean the ends of the fuse, and the ends of the fuse holder. DeOxIt spray and a very small wire brush will work well. Insure you have the right fuse in the right location, and no fuse where no fuse belongs. Sometimes gently pinching the fuse holder tangs will make a tighter connection, but be GENTLY if you pinch them. You may replace all fuses with new, however the modern antique fuses may not be as good quality as the orig fuses you have there. Clean the terminals on any relay you remove and install. A bit of DeOxIt on the relay sockets also helps.

You are working with +30YO circuitry here, and all the help you can provide will make life easier. Particularly later on when you get down to other circuits like the blower motor, lights, wipers, etc.
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Old 01-08-2019, 01:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by docmirror View Post
More advice. First, follow the advice above carefully. It will serve you well.

When you get down to the CE panel for refurb. Disconnect battery terminal. Remove EACH fuse, clean the ends of the fuse, and the ends of the fuse holder. DeOxIt spray and a very small wire brush will work well. Insure you have the right fuse in the right location, and no fuse where no fuse belongs. Sometimes gently pinching the fuse holder tangs will make a tighter connection, but be GENTLY if you pinch them. You may replace all fuses with new, however the modern antique fuses may not be as good quality as the orig fuses you have there. Clean the terminals on any relay you remove and install. A bit of DeOxIt on the relay sockets also helps.

You are working with +30YO circuitry here, and all the help you can provide will make life easier. Particularly later on when you get down to other circuits like the blower motor, lights, wipers, etc.
thnaks for all of the advice. Unfortunately i will not be able to work on the car for some time due to cold temperatures and no more garage space
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Old 01-08-2019, 02:08 PM
  #33  
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Yeah, working on a car outside this time of year sucks.

Plates on the car & trailer are Minnesota. Is that where you are?

You can put your location in your profile. It can help, especially if there's someone close to you. We are often willing to come over and help with stuff. Or just to say 'hi' and see the car.

Beer in the fridge and food are strong enticements.

"Will work on 928s for pizza."

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Old 01-08-2019, 02:14 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe View Post
Yeah, working on a car outside this time of year sucks.

Plates on the car & trailer are Minnesota. Is that where you are?

You can put your location in your profile. It can help, especially if there's someone close to you. We are often willing to come over and help with stuff. Or just to say 'hi' and see the car.

Beer in the fridge and food are strong enticements.

"Will work on 928s for pizza."

yea im out of minnesota near mankato. My dad stocks our cooler with beer regularly. Lol
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:05 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Dylan_928 View Post
My dad stocks our cooler with beer regularly.
Dylan, you are a silver tongued devil.
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:45 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Dylan_928 View Post

yea im out of minnesota near mankato. My dad stocks our cooler with beer regularly. Lol
Originally Posted by soontobered84 View Post
Dylan, you are a silver tongued devil.
Toldja.



On a more serious note, Stan's suggestion of cleaning up the CE panel is a very good one (most of his suggestions are).

It's actually really simple to just pull the whole thing out.

Maybe 15 min outside, then you take the whole thing inside and go through it.

As I said earlier, everything is documented somewhere. The trick is to find it.

CE Panel refresh on Sharkskin's site. Go to "Rnd 4 Bzzzzt" under 'Shark Attack' (4th grouping). Lots of other good stuff on there too:

https://members.rennlist.com/sharksk..._Main_Home.htm
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Old 01-08-2019, 05:51 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe View Post
Toldja.



On a more serious note, Stan's suggestion of cleaning up the CE panel is a very good one (most of his suggestions are).

It's actually really simple to just pull the whole thing out.

Maybe 15 min outside, then you take the whole thing inside and go through it.

As I said earlier, everything is documented somewhere. The trick is to find it.

CE Panel refresh on Sharkskin's site. Go to "Rnd 4 Bzzzzt" under 'Shark Attack' (4th grouping). Lots of other good stuff on there too:

https://members.rennlist.com/sharksk..._Main_Home.htm
thanks joe, that page is really going to be handy in the future. I think ill take a rain check on going outside today because its cold and i might blow away
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Old 01-08-2019, 09:28 PM
  #38  
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Alright... i decided to quit being a puss and to go out and get the panel out there. I froze my fingers off but i enventually got the panel out of the car. It is waaayyy worse than i honestly expected it to be and i will be DEEP cleaning everything. Hopefully i can get the sticky stuff on the relay and right side of the panel off without wrecking anything. I am honestly surprised that the could would turn. Im really lucky i didnt get stranded when i first drove her.





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Old 01-08-2019, 09:48 PM
  #39  
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I'll second the recommendation to buy and use a bottle of DeOxIt, it helps get rid of the corrosion in the contact surfaces.
I bought a bottle of the liquid 100% concentration (D100) off of Amazon, and just dripped it onto the points that I wanted it, but you can get aerosol cans of the lower concentration versions as well.

It worked pretty well, and I came back to the car a few days after initially applying the cleaner and found electrical systems working that I hadn't even touched yet, other than to apply the cleaner and reinstall the relays and harness connectors. (Coming into the garage and finding market lights on, which hadn't worked when I left, and I didn't see that the switch was even on due to the lack of functionality, was a very nice surprise...)
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Old 01-08-2019, 11:09 PM
  #40  
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Awright Dylan! Thats the kind of freeze your *** off for a good cause we admire. :-)

Your cleaning will be amply rewarded in June when your lights, wipers, and AC all work. BTW, Im headed to Kenosha WI right now looking at a new plane to buy. Who goes to WI in Jan for a plane? Only a crazy man.

​​​​​​​Take your time, clean well and some of those relay slot receptacles may need replacemwnt due to over-current load. Keep Roger on speed dial and keep asking questions. At least you have begun with the right and proper color.
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Old 01-09-2019, 04:57 AM
  #41  
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I was 15 when I bought my 81 so you came to the right place

If you ever really wonder where the ecu gets signal for the injectors it starts from a hall sensor in the distributor,

then through the green wire to the the ignition module (tsz) on the passenger side fender,

and from there to the ecu. Here is a pinout for future reference:



As the others have recommended, clean every connection you can get your hands on. It will fix probably 85% of the electrical faults in the car.

Also, replace the ground strap when you have the chance. They are usually heavily corroded and cause all kinds of weird running issues.

Best of luck on your project
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:55 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by The Forgotten On View Post
I was 15 when I bought my 81 so you came to the right place

If you ever really wonder where the ecu gets signal for the injectors it starts from a hall sensor in the distributor,

then through the green wire to the the ignition module (tsz) on the passenger side fender,

and from there to the ecu. Here is a pinout for future reference:



As the others have recommended, clean every connection you can get your hands on. It will fix probably 85% of the electrical faults in the car.

Also, replace the ground strap when you have the chance. They are usually heavily corroded and cause all kinds of weird running issues.

Best of luck on your project
thanks for the advice and help! I have that pic saved to my camera roll already because i was planning on testing the twerminals but that is going to wait until i get the control panel redid lol. Are you reffering to the ground strap in the battery box or the one underneath by the engine?
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Old 01-10-2019, 02:52 AM
  #43  
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Replace the one in the battery box area. Remove the one under the car by the engine. Clean both ends of the cable and both mounting points and reinstall.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:25 PM
  #44  
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Just thought i wiuld update everybody.... i have been making good progress on the fuse panel. I have cleaned all of the relays and all fuses and fuse connectors. There was a lot of corrosion on everything. Hoping to get some deoxit this next week as well as distributor cap and green wire as i will have some money (currently broke lol).
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:12 PM
  #45  
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clean brother
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