Strange cooling fan behavior
01-04-2019 | 06:50 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 44
Strange cooling fan behavior
New OEM cooling fans (thank you roger), rebuilt amplifier, and new fan connectors: passenger side cooling fan stops working every 4 or 5 months,
like clockwork. the solution is always the same: pull the 30 amp fuse, which is pretty hot, but not blown, replace and all good
for another 4 or 5 months? does not matter if I throw out the original fuse, and/or install a new one; fan works fine after removing and
reinstalling the fuse
like clockwork. the solution is always the same: pull the 30 amp fuse, which is pretty hot, but not blown, replace and all good
for another 4 or 5 months? does not matter if I throw out the original fuse, and/or install a new one; fan works fine after removing and
reinstalling the fuse
01-04-2019 | 07:17 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 13,582
Likes: 1,034
From: Boulder Creek, CA
1) What condition is the fuse holder (dark, or fuse seems to go in and our too easy?)
2) Any carbon on the fuse blades?
3) Any discoloration under the fan system relay (Not sure if there is one offhand)
If those seems fine, start doing a voltage drop from the CE panel to the problem fan..look for a high resistance section?
2) Any carbon on the fuse blades?
3) Any discoloration under the fan system relay (Not sure if there is one offhand)
If those seems fine, start doing a voltage drop from the CE panel to the problem fan..look for a high resistance section?
01-04-2019 | 10:57 PM
#3
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 28,627
Likes: 2,657
From: Philly PA
get a new fuse and add a thin layer of solder to each blade,
spray them with deoxit 100 and install them,
monitor them after running the fans for 10 mins for excessive heat if its getting hot then the connection is poor
spray them with deoxit 100 and install them,
monitor them after running the fans for 10 mins for excessive heat if its getting hot then the connection is poor
01-04-2019 | 11:18 PM
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Bend, Oregon
The connector in the fuse holder comes out the back after you probe the little locking tab from the front. You can improve the tension on the connector with a little plier squeeze, and the spray of Deoxit that Stan recommends.
The fans feed from dedicated feeders directly from the battery positive to the fuse holders. Lift the battery ground before commencing any surgical procedures.
The fans feed from dedicated feeders directly from the battery positive to the fuse holders. Lift the battery ground before commencing any surgical procedures.
01-05-2019 | 12:04 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5,926
Likes: 304
From: Kaukauna Wisconsin
Heat means resistance.
Resistance is coming from a bad or marginal connection.
As was suggested, clean the fuse connectors. Tighten them up, Make the blades on the fuse "fatter" (with solder).
All of those will improve the contact between the fuse and the connectors.
Beware, because while it seems like the connection is completely failing before it generates enough heat to melt the plastic, it may or may not remain that way.
Replacing fuse blocks in the CE panel is doable, but a pain.
Resistance is coming from a bad or marginal connection.
As was suggested, clean the fuse connectors. Tighten them up, Make the blades on the fuse "fatter" (with solder).
All of those will improve the contact between the fuse and the connectors.
Beware, because while it seems like the connection is completely failing before it generates enough heat to melt the plastic, it may or may not remain that way.
Replacing fuse blocks in the CE panel is doable, but a pain.
01-05-2019 | 08:54 PM
#7
Drifting
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 26
From: Northern Virginia