tkrtape12

Very nice...I like it....I also have been thinking about lowering the front of my car just a tad for better stance. How did you achieve this. That's awesome that you can still get in and out with out that annoying rubbing noise we all hate so much.

Thanks

Carl Fausett

That car has our Koni/Hypercoil suspension kit on it. This kit includes ride height adjustment sleeves that are 5" tall, providing a full 3" of adjustment range. You can raise your 928 with this kit or lower it 2 inches. Be advised that lowering a 928 is common and not too problematic. Lowering below that requires some additional items, like our bump-steer kit.

This picture shows our ride height adjustment sleeves installed on the Koni's. They can be purchased separately, or if you buy the Koni/Hypercoil kit, we install them on to the shocks for you before the shocks are shipped.

tkrtape12

I just drooled on myself lol...Thanks
This might be added to my winter project list...how's that level of being lowered feel in the seat just a bit tighter ? I would like just a bit sportier feel. My 951 had a cup 2 suspension and was just way to firm for street driving but great on track.

Thanks again

Carl Fausett

We have several spring rates available, and the 600/400 setup is the most popular for tracked cars, and the 500/350 is popular for owners that want a little stiffer than stock, but still want to retain a touring car ride.

Here is the page that talks about that kit: https://928motorsports.com/parts/completesuspension.php

dr bob

Carl --

What is the actual ride height of the car you used for the driveway tests? And what's the height of the splitter on a level floor?

On your pix -- there's lots of opinion on what stock ride height is. The car on the left appears to be all the way at the bottom of the spec range, maybe lower. Can you put actual ride-height numbers on the pictures? My S4 at 172mm looks noticeably higher than your left example. 25.4mm Lower than that would have me dragging just getting into the driveway.

For those playing along at home, the bottom end of the recommended ride height range is 170mm in front, measured from the pad in the rear lower control arm bracket, and assuming the stock tire height. That number includes the factory's allowance for sag with age. Many allow the cars to drop closer to 160mm, acknowledging the risk of under-car damage and the affect on suspension and alignment. These heights are based on stock springs and dampers. Using the higher-rate springs and dampers that Carl sells offers a little extra margin on height since the suspension will be stiffer on compression. Still, the static height needs to consider how low the critical bits are (oil pan, AC and alternator) vs the road hazards you face. Potholes, parking bumpers, road debris, all pose a hazard to the dangly bits. Wheel alignment becomes a lot more critical as you move away from the factory-recommended heights.

Carl Fausett

The car on the left is my son's and now in San Diego. I cannot get it measured reasonably. The car on the right is now in the shop in the air, and I cannot measure ride height on it, either, until we put it down. That will be a little while, we are test-fitting three new products on it (including this composite chin splitter) and it needs to stay in the air for now. Sorry. I'll try to get you those numbers when we put it down.

PS: dr bob; with your keen eye you may have also noticed the car on the left is wearing 17" wheels and the one on the right is on 18" wheels. Just another variable. However, at the time, my son and I measured his total tire height and mine and they were very nearly identical owing to my 30 aspect ratio and his 35 aspect ratio.

dr bob

My car is on 17's too. But as you note in your example, the total tire height is virtually identical to the original. The goal, for those playing along, is to have the lower control arm pivot points at the same height off the floor, making the arm functionally level or inner ends slightly higher than level. Lower than that may gain some with a slightly lower CG. But the roll center stays virtually the same, and the geometry suffers. You lose compression travel. At extremes like MK's car in the 130's. most of his suspension stiffness and damping is courtesy of the rubber bump stops.

Carl Fausett

What's the "ideal" ride height for a 928?

Some have posted that it isn't necessarily the spec Porsche provides in the WSM.

Whatever your ride height decision, tell us if you came to that decision for cosmetic reasons, suspension/handling reasons, or other. Add a picture of your raised or lowered 928 to show your results if you can.

Adamant1971

On my 87 S4 I went with 165 front and 160 rear. I only drive the car for pleasure and the roads are pretty good in my area. My suspension is in top shape, I would not go this low on tired shocks/springs as you will bottom out.

Last year I ran it a bit higher at 170 all around. I don't notice any difference in handling.

I'm running 17" OEM cup 1's ET 65 up front.

I lowered it purely for cosmetic reasons. It just looked silly IMO.

Adk46

My car bottoms out on certain roads I drive frequently. It is, therefore, too low. I raised the rear last winter, will raise the front this winter (must replace corroded collars). 1/2 to 3/4" ought to do it, unless driving season begins before frost heaves have subsided.

V2Rocket

measured to where?

Adamant1971

Per the WSM.

Speedtoys

So just someone posting they don't believe it is an Engineering override of the original geometry engineering?

SeanR

Whatever you do, do not do what the PO of this 40k mile '94 that showed up today. Cut the springs and ran out of height adjustment on the factory bits.

Speedtoys

Also remember when you lower it..your bump stops are the alternator and AC compressor in some urban conditions,