I noticed some hydraulic fluid weeping around the pushrod of the clutch master cylinder (CMC) while doing some general clutch inspection. Based on the advice of a few well qualified individuals, any amout of visible hydraulic fluid means the seals on the CMC are failing and they should be replaced.

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The CMC is supper difficult to reach and there are several terrible ways to replace the CMC. One abhorrent method involves cutting a hole in the wheel arch (don't do it!). There is a less intrusive method that involves using the string method to chase the CMC out and back into the holes. Or you can remove the brake MC and booster for easier access. Additionally, a couple people suggested that the failure is usually just the seals and it can be rebuilt in the car with less effort than removing the CMC.

I decided to do a write-up on rebuilding the CMC, even through its a fairly easy job. Here is an overview from the WSM (Manual 2, Section 30-1)
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Needed Supplies and Tools

• Replacement CMC or seal kit. Rebuild kits are available for under $20 (Raybestos P/N CMK1899). Replacement CMC's range from $70 - $100 from various vendors, this is not a dealer only item.
  Caution Please see the note discussion about CMC differences in post 7 below.
• 1 liter of DOT 4 brake fluid (Fresh can)
• Power bleeder / fluid catch can.
• Snap ring pliers, preferably something with an angle, like 60 or 90 degrees.
• 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm wrenches,
• Assorted picks
• Lint free rags, latex gloves, eye protection

Prepare the Car
You are going to need to get under the car the bleed the Clutch Slave Cylinder (Slave) and it's a good idea to flush the brakes at the same time so get the car up in the air with the wheels off. Also, you will need to crawl under the dash, so get the seat moved all the way back and remove the parcel shelf. Bonus points if you remove the driver's seat and steering wheel. Both will aid in giving to better access. Disconnect the battery as per usual.

Drain the clutch hydraulic system
Open the cap on the top of the hydraulic reservoir, then open the bleeder valve on the slave with a catch can connected. With the system draining, pump the clutch pedal a few times and leave it depressed. This will move the fluid out of the reservoir and the out of the CMC. Let the system drain while disassembling CMC.

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Disassemble the CMC
Inside the car, remove the clip holding the pushrod clevis to the clutch pedal, slide the clevis off the pin. and pull the pushrod out with the boot.
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You will now see the cir-clip/snap-ring. Pull the carpet back and put rags around the CMC to catch any excess fluid as you remove the snap-ring.

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Using he snap-ring pliers, remove the snap-ring. This is probably the most difficult part of the job given the tight quarters. This is where I wished I had an angled snap-ring pliers. As you remove the snap-ring the CMC plunger will pop out about a CM clear of the CMC housing, So be ready with eye protection and rags as there will be some splatter. Remove the washer and piston, and, using a hooked pick, remove the piston return spring. Inspect the cylinder walls for corrosion. If clear, replace with rebuild kit, or scavenged parts from replacement new CMC. Make sure to use a little master cylinder grease to lube up the sprung and the piston before insertion.
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Re-assembly of CMC
Install the spring with the wide base at the bottom of the CMC. Install the piston. As you push it in you will notice the piston will not stay seated in the CMC housing because of the spring tension so installing the washer and snap-ring will be difficult. I found it easier to install the push-rod, with the washer and snap-ring, and boot dangling on the pushrod. Then I installed the pushrod onto the clutch pedal. This effectively held the piston down for me while I was able to use my free hands to load up the snap-ring and move it into position. Truth be told I fussed with the snap-ring pliers for a while and found it easier to use my fingers to start one end of the snap-ring and then us a screwdriver to work the rest into place. Once you have the snap-ring in-place return the clutch pedal to the up position and make sure there is no pre-loading on the push-rod from the adjustment.
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Bleed the Clutch System
Bleeding the clutch can be difficult and people have their tips and tricks, but here is what the WSM says:

1. Close the bleed valve at the Slave.
2. Add new DOT fluid to power bleeder, connect to reservoir (strainer removed) and pressurize the system. Check system for leaks.
3. Open bleeder screw on clutch slave cylinder until escaping fluid is without air bubbles. Depress clutch pedal several times during this step.
4. Bleed slave, depressurize power bleeder and close the bleeder nipple closed, remove the slave from the bel housing and gently tip it such that the pushrod points at the ground and depress the pushrod a couple times, this will force any air bubbles up to the bleeder nipple. Carefully open the bleeder nipple while the slave is pointing down to let any air bubbles out and then re-close, and re-install the slave (make sure you you have some grease on the tip of the pushrod. Check the clutch pressure. If solid, you did good. If not, repeat above.
   
   Note: Never operate clutch pedal as long as slave cylinder is removed.

Optional Bleed Brakes
Now would be good time to flush and bleed the brakes since you have the extra fluid and you can't really store it.

Adjust Clutch Pedal Travel
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Now that you are sure the system is leak free, adjust the push-rod per the WSM:

Checking clutch free travel: Due to the fact that the clutch is fitted with an automatic hydraulic adjuster, the clutch free travel cannot be checked at the clutch pedal. To ensure proper operation of the clutch. however, the pushrod must be adjusted correctly.

Adjusting the pushrod: Adjust for zero clearance with the pushrod (1) disengaged to allow the pushrod to be pushed over the pin (2) without any load being present. Then preload the pushrod by rotating by one turn and lock with nut (3).

Adjusting the clutch spring: To boost foot pressure, a boost spring is fitted to reduce the pedal force required. To achieve this effect, the boost spring must be preloaded sufficiently. When measuring from the inside of the spring cup to the center of the mounting pin, dimension A must be 43 mm for vehicles up to MY ‘91 and 21 mm for vehicles as of MY ‘92 with the clutch engaged (clutch pedal at end stop). If required, correct setting by rotating the wing nut or the hexagon nut, respectively.

That is you are done!