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Access to trans. vacuum line?

 
Old 11-25-2018, 01:48 PM
  #16  
Otto Mechanic
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Originally Posted by Constantine View Post
Hi Scott,

Sounds like a plan. From memory it is just a slip fit over the steel tubing at the front. I do seem to remember reconnecting it from under the car by feel more than actually seeing it. I also remember putting a small plastic zip tie over the union so it wouldn't come off as easily in the future.

The way I found out my rubber line became disconnected was pronounced shift hardness, to include chirping rear tires when pushed hard. Thought it was because of the weight reduction the 928S (aka "the Coke Car") went through over a year of work. To my chagrin was told it was because of the disconnected vacuum line to the transmission, which I found at the front. This was when the car was still an automatic before the 5-speed conversion.

Good luck with the work!
I can tell you've done this before

I knew on my first test drive after replacing all my fuel lines that vacuum line had come loose, I did this about 5 years ago after an intake refresh and had the same hard shifting symptoms. It was a real bear getting that line reconnected last time so I kind of knew I was in trouble. Last time the cloth covered line was still poking out of the firewall so it was only difficult, not impossible, to reconnect from the top of the engine. This time I'm not so lucky...

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Old 01-10-2019, 08:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mj1pate View Post
I’ve had to replace the vacuum flex hose between the rigid vacuum pipe (above the torque tube) and the vacuum distributed in the engine bay several times. I have large hands and could manage it without too much issue. There’s nothing wrong with the stock setup. You need to have the car up high enough to work underneath so that you can see and/or feel the end of the rigid pipe. You may have to remove the pass side heat shield (easy couple of bolts). Use silicon high temp flex hose and try to have sufficient length/slack to keep the hose away from the exhaust pipe.
in other words; once you are under the car and can see/feel the rigid pipe, you can figure out the means to attach a new flex hose. I didn’t need and tools to do this.
What year car were you working on?

I've got the car up on a lift and can't see or feel the hard line you mention. My car is an '85 S3?

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Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 01-11-2019 at 04:50 AM.
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Old 01-10-2019, 10:04 PM
  #18  
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Scott you may also have to remove the bolts on the center heat shield so it can be moved.
it would be wise to also disconnect the O 2 sensor first ,
then push it through the chassis wall,
then you slide the center heat shield back enough to feel this metal line.
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Old 01-11-2019, 02:28 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
Scott you may also have to remove the bolts on the center heat shield so it can be moved.
it would be wise to also disconnect the O 2 sensor first ,
then push it through the chassis wall,
then you slide the center heat shield back enough to feel this metal line.
Hey Stan -

That was the re-enforcement I needed; you wrote "heat shield", so did a few others, but I've been reading "firewall" the whole time and wondering how I might possibly remove the firewall? I swear I've stared at this for a few hours now; raised it, stared. Lowered it. Stared some more. Tried sticking my hand places it shouldn't have been. Swore. Continued staring.

It finally dawned on me which heat shields people have been talking about and where they are. I should have it apart in the morning...

PS: Feel free to laugh wildly.

PPS: Also see: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post8843727

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Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 01-11-2019 at 04:39 AM.
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:16 PM
  #20  
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In the end I removed all three heat shields over the exhaust blocking me from getting my hands over the top of the torque tube; driver, passenger and center. I only took the driver's side off because it made it easier to remove the center and I didn't have to completely remove the center, just the front two screws on either side.

After that I could reach in, find the cloth tube by feel and reconnect it to the plastic line running off the vacuum distributor next to the throttle. I expect I'll need to do it again after I get a short roll of that 3.5mm cloth covered hose everyone talks about since the original is deteriorating and it's also a little too short, which is probably why it keeps getting unhooked. Now I know the secret, it's all of a 15 minute job. It takes more time to raise and lower the car than it does to fix it.

No need to dither with anything in the engine bay, everything is accessible from under the car.

Thanks to all for the help, sorry I didn't understand what folks were talking about at first. Next time, when I replace the cloth hose, I'll take pictures. I lost my iPad at the supermarket last week and won't have a camera until its replacement arrives next week.

Now it's on to the leaking water bridge...

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