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WoW nice photos Allan. This clarifies some things.
Question, can I put back the alu cilinder (since I drove out the wrong pen) from bottom cast iron ? May I gently put back the copper lit at the bottom of my WUR?
You mention the WUR pressure drops after disconnecting the return-to-tank (outlet) line.
This outlet-fuel passes the pressure regulator before reaching the fuel return line to tank.
The pressure regulator closes this canal ( return to tank valve ) after pump shutdown, maintaining rest-pressure.
Maybe there is a restriction in the pressure regulator at this passage, rising the warm control pressure.
If the system pressure is within specs, the pressure regulator should lift enough to open the return to tank valve without restriction.
Can I push back the cilinder (vacuum side) this way inside my cast iron since I wrongly pushed it outside . Here some pics : I wrongly push this cilinder outside the cast iron for about 1mm (04") Can I push it back inside this way ?
No , with that , you just limit the vacuum amplitude .
Gerrit , send me your personal adress by mp .
I have a 036 .
I send to you my 036 and if it's good you send to me yours for rebuilding .
I'm not easy with english language to explain the right way to have the correct pressure .
No , with that , you just limit the vacuum amplitude .
Gerrit , send me your personal adress by mp .
I have a 036 .
I send to you my 036 and if it's good you send to me yours for rebuilding .
I'm not easy with english language to explain the right way to have the correct pressure .
I have sent you an email with my personal address .
I would be great if you could help me, I really appreciate this.
I will send you my 036.
thanks in advance
Gerrit
btw : I used the Salvox kit for rebuilding my 036. So some parts have been already renewed
Allan,
I followed your advice and pushed the valve body upwards (about 1mm (0,4")) to lower the warm control pressure.
dismantled the metal diafragma so that I would not damage it when pressing the valve body upwards : Use of wrench caps inside body Also larger wrench cap outside I heated the body on the outside to expand it so that the valve body moves easily when pressing
I just have to test it. I'll keep you informed with the results.
I'll send to you my own 036 tomorrow .
This WUR work fine on my car .
Today , I put it on my test bench , to be sure .
It was rebuild , Viton O ring was new like screw and membrane .
It was on my car before I stopped it for electrical rebuib wires panel and many fuel parts replacement .
Wow nicely done! Reallly professional work
Again thanks for your support on this.
Today I again managed to start the Porsche but not easy to find the correct mixture setting (CO screw)
What is the best way of determinating the basic mixture setting ?
The one from Bosch ?
disconnect 1 injection fuel line on the fuel distributor so the you can see one injection port
let fuel pump run (bridge)
turn the CO mixture screw clockwise till injection port on FD is providing fuel
them turn CO mixture screw back 1/2 counter clockwise
Adjustment is MUCH more sensitive than moving 1/2 turn !!! From injectors just audibly firing, back off adjuster until they just stop -should run. Then adjust tiny amounts (1/16th turn) until hot power is good, but no black smoke. Then test CO with instrument.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k 086 WUR
You are absolutely correct, but there is a basic setting of the FD before you can actually start the car, and try to keep it running before you can adjust anything.
And that was my problem : I could not start the car because my CO setting was completely out of its normal thresholds.
So I tried the Bosch procedure :
1. turn the CO mixture screw CCW all the way until it completely closes the fuel circuit on the FD (this is position 0)
1. on the FD detach one of the fuel lines going to an injector
2. run fuel pump by manually bridge the circuit
3. then at the same time turn the CO mixture screw CW until fuel comes out of the detached FD port.
At the same time the FD makes a squeaking noise when you reach this position (mine was about 7,5 turns CW )
But car still won't start.....ending up with too much fuel on pistons 1,2,5 and 6, probably due to the cold start valve which is closes to these cilinders.
So I removed the fuel on the pistons.
Tried again (idle screw adjustment is 1 1/2-turn CCW from full CW, AF/CO screw is turned 8 turns CW) ,
and now I could only start car by pressing gaspedal all the way down and to keep car idling/running I needed to keep pedal pressed down ????
What could be my problem ???? Coldstart pressure is 1.1 bar
12-24-2018, 11:27 AM
