Release Bearing/ Arm Socket & Finally A Pic
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: The Great Northwest
Posts: 12,264
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK, I am confused.
When my clutch is disengaged I get a high pitched metallic ringing noise that varies in pitch and someimes doesn't make noise at all. When it is making noise light pressure on the clutch pedal makes it go away.
On Nicols site they talk about this being the clutch arm socket and you can replace this from the top of the engine with the air cleaner off. The there is some talk of needing to replace the "tube" at the same time. Since there is only 61K on the shark I think replacing the ball socket would be enough "if" that is the problem and the fix. At this point I have a new throw out bearing and the plastic "cup" for the socket. Should I do the bearing at the same time and if so someone posted I had to have a new tube also. I am having a hard time getting everything straight.
And finally I fugured out how to shrink my pics------->
When my clutch is disengaged I get a high pitched metallic ringing noise that varies in pitch and someimes doesn't make noise at all. When it is making noise light pressure on the clutch pedal makes it go away.
On Nicols site they talk about this being the clutch arm socket and you can replace this from the top of the engine with the air cleaner off. The there is some talk of needing to replace the "tube" at the same time. Since there is only 61K on the shark I think replacing the ball socket would be enough "if" that is the problem and the fix. At this point I have a new throw out bearing and the plastic "cup" for the socket. Should I do the bearing at the same time and if so someone posted I had to have a new tube also. I am having a hard time getting everything straight.
And finally I fugured out how to shrink my pics------->
#3
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jim,
I guess I'm a little confused too, hopefully only in terminology: "clutch disengaged" = pedal to the floor; at this point, its difficult to "put light pressure on the clutch pedal".
If the noise occurs as described w. pedal down, agree with 'Old & New' on the release bearing as being likely.
If the plastic cup in the release lever is going, or gone, you can get anything from a 'rattle' with the clutch engaged (pedal released) to a potential squeal caused by a sloppy allignment of the release lever which allows the release bearing to drag on the guide tube; some tubes were metal I recall, many of plastic - depending on year.
I've read the method of 'cup' replacement by prying the release arm off from the top: If you're uncertain as to the condition/history of your clutch, it's probably a complete removal anyway.
BTW, in the WSM's, there's a way to measure remaining clutch disc life by viewing thru the inspection hole (again, MYear dependant): might give a better idea of whats involved before opening anything up.
Also, there's a published method in the sites you mentioned to relube release fingers/guide tube/etc. by only dropping the bottom bell housing cover. If the clutch is fine otherwise, a shot of lube can't hurt!
I guess I'm a little confused too, hopefully only in terminology: "clutch disengaged" = pedal to the floor; at this point, its difficult to "put light pressure on the clutch pedal".
If the noise occurs as described w. pedal down, agree with 'Old & New' on the release bearing as being likely.
If the plastic cup in the release lever is going, or gone, you can get anything from a 'rattle' with the clutch engaged (pedal released) to a potential squeal caused by a sloppy allignment of the release lever which allows the release bearing to drag on the guide tube; some tubes were metal I recall, many of plastic - depending on year.
I've read the method of 'cup' replacement by prying the release arm off from the top: If you're uncertain as to the condition/history of your clutch, it's probably a complete removal anyway.
BTW, in the WSM's, there's a way to measure remaining clutch disc life by viewing thru the inspection hole (again, MYear dependant): might give a better idea of whats involved before opening anything up.
Also, there's a published method in the sites you mentioned to relube release fingers/guide tube/etc. by only dropping the bottom bell housing cover. If the clutch is fine otherwise, a shot of lube can't hurt!
#4
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jim -
Your GT may only have 61K on the clock, but remember it is also 13 years old or older. I've seen throwout bearings, pilot bearings, etc. start to go with less then 30k miles.......just because the lubrication of such parts really dries up over the years.......then the noise begins.
A clutch job is really a totally different animal then a ball cup replacement for the shifter, true both require some time under the car, but the two jobs don't really have much of an overlap.......with the miles and years on your car, both could probably stand to be done.
If it were me I'd drop the clutch, replace the throw out bearing, pilot bearing, guide tube, etc. You can put back the original clutch if you like, but in all probability (unless the car has really been babied) the pressure plate/disk might not have enough wear left to justify putting it back. If you have the funds......you might want to replace it all and not worry for many years to come about going back into the same area.
Then you can get started on the ball cup! Oh what fun......
Your GT may only have 61K on the clock, but remember it is also 13 years old or older. I've seen throwout bearings, pilot bearings, etc. start to go with less then 30k miles.......just because the lubrication of such parts really dries up over the years.......then the noise begins.
A clutch job is really a totally different animal then a ball cup replacement for the shifter, true both require some time under the car, but the two jobs don't really have much of an overlap.......with the miles and years on your car, both could probably stand to be done.
If it were me I'd drop the clutch, replace the throw out bearing, pilot bearing, guide tube, etc. You can put back the original clutch if you like, but in all probability (unless the car has really been babied) the pressure plate/disk might not have enough wear left to justify putting it back. If you have the funds......you might want to replace it all and not worry for many years to come about going back into the same area.
Then you can get started on the ball cup! Oh what fun......
#5
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jim, I bet the dealer had the old thing sitting out back with the windows open, and now crickets are living in your carpets. Don't laugh, I've lived it. Those buggars are impossible to find till they've died of natural causes.
#6
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jim, please keep us updated as to what you find, if possible with pictures. I also have a clutch issue which I have detailed in a separate thread but I won't be able to make any progress until my engine is running again.