muttster

Is there an adapter (similar to the Porsche Classic Radio Adapter) that allows use of the original DIN connector to the original AMP? If so, to which modern radios will it connect?

Adamant1971

The Forgotten On

Many amps in the late 80s and early 90s used din connectors if you wanted to do a period upgrade.

The pair of ADS PH15.2 amps I use both use them.

I would personally just buy a din to rca adapter and put a small amp where the factory one was and just buy some 2 pin din female pigtales to reuse the factory wiring without having to botch it.

It's what I did in my dad's 944 after I restored it to the original radio wiring harness after a PO had cut it up and soldered in a connector for a **** aftermarket radio.

The din to rca adapters are easy enough to get online from ebay or a quick google search.

Adamant1971

I think the OP wants to use a modern radio, so in that case if he changes to modern amp he can just run RCA to the amp.

muttster

Has anyone tried the option below to keep original wiring intact with DIN adapter and power adapter to modern radio? Question I have is will the DIN for a 93 GTS with blaupunkt amplifier be different than the DIN mentioned below "...where a modern head unit is used with the existing (Nokia) external amplifier"?

https://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php...8-pin-din.html
"Audio harness for use in classic Porsche models equipped with a DIN connector to the original external amplifier. Female 8-pin DIN connector and a line level converter (LOC) for direct connection to the speaker outputs of a head unit.
This harness is used where a modern head unit is used with the existing (Nokia) external amplifier. The 8-pin DIN connector is most often seen in conjunction with the Porsche CR-1 and CR-2 head units. This harness makes installation possible without any modifications of the original car wiring."

Speedtoys

I went back full OEM...im happy.

Its not high power, fancy, super duper silly loud...eh.

muttster

Plastic radio power adapter
In doing a little research and looking at various forum entries, found that the plastic radio power connector on the car side is:
1-Brown-AMP
2-Red-Suppressor
3-empty
4-White-Antenna
5-Red-Amp
6-Brown/Yellow (x2)-Alarm
The six these match up to on the plastic radio power connector on the CR-1 side to:
1-Brown-????
2-Red-????
3-empty
4-Blue-????
5-Yellow-????
6-White/Blue-????
Can any one tell me what these six wires' functions are (ie, what are the ???? for each of the six)?

8 PIN DIN Adapter
With respect to an adapter from the 8 pin car side DIN, I found someone selling an 8 PIN DIN to RCA adapter. The CR-1 side 4 RCA leads appear to be correct on this adapter. However, this adapter does not address the power and ground pins on the car side male DIN. Thoughts on this adapter? It would clearly be used to connect the RCA wires to a after market head that required to sets of RCA plugs.

The Forgotten On

The din cable only carries a signal to the amp along with a remote turn on and ground as you've noticed.

There is usually a set of wires that can be soldered in those adapters. If not, adding them is easy as the connectors are just soldered.

muttster

Well, pulled CR-1 out for good and will keep for posterity. Tried to get XM cassette adapter to work and only managed to get it stuck, and ultimately to make cassette deck inop (after pulling the deck out a couple of times, and not being able to get code back in). So, will install single DIN Pioneer AVH-3300NEX keeping all original wiring.

Question...have not discovered a thread that explains how to get small rear quester panel speakers out. Have the large speakers out but connector to this small speaker is now 'buried' so I can reconnect it. How do you get the grill off the small 1/4 panel speaker above the large speaker and how do you giet it out so as to reconnect the large speaker back to it.

Thanx.

muttster

So here is what has worked so far if someone needs to refoam large 1/4 panel speakers on 93 GTS:
- popped off grills on both large speakers and both small speakers (right above each large one) on each rear 1/4 panel with a paint can opener as suggested in another thread (in all cases, grills were difficult to get all off since they'd never been removed and were stuck to 1/4 panel material, so, working the prying on each grill slowly was important so as to not bust any of the grills)
- unscrewed the four screws in each of the four speakers
- carefully 'worked' the speaker loose from the rear 1/4 panel material because again, all four speakers were stuck to the rear 1/4 panel material (result was no ripped material)
- pulled out the two bottom large speakers disconnecting both sets of connectors on each of the big speakers
- pulled out each of the upper small speakers to be able to get to the disconnected connector going to the bottom speaker (had to stick fingers in and work through foam insulation to get each one loose and manageable)
- purchased SWK6 new foam rings for each of the two large speakers from Speakerworks ($18)...after first buying a couple foam rings that were too large
- trimmed about a mm+ off the outer edge of the new foam rings to get them to fit into the large speakers
- followed the instructions that came with one of the foams I ordered on the first speaker refoam...glued down inside edge on on cone...used bolt heads to hold down inner edge of foam as suggested in another thread..., let it dry for an hour then lifted up outer edge foam, got glue down on speaker outer edge, and pressed down the edge of the foam ring...personally I thought this was a clumsy way to do it
- on the second piece of new foam, put the glue around the edge of the cone and the outer edge of the speaker frame at he same time, and then laid the new foam on top pressing down making sure it stayed centered...used bolt heads to hold down inner edge of foam as suggested in another thread...appears to have worked like a champ...guess I'll find out
- [next steps...explicitly hoping the next step works!]
- stick finger in hole from upper speaker pushing and holding male connector as far forward as it will go while at the same time pushing the female connector up from the lower speaker as far as it will go hopefully reattaching the connector...repeat for second set of speakers
- connect lower speaker second set of connectors
- reinstall lower speakers with four screws each and snap grills back in place
- reinstall upper speakers with four screws each and snap grills back in place

muttster

Parts arrived to make custom DIN adapter to keep old stereo wiring, amp, and speakers with modern radio. Have found differing versions of what pins in the din correlate to which speaker. It's pretty clear looking at the "MALE DIN" remaining in the console once the radio is pulled, with an orientation of the center pin at the top and the indent for connecting DINS at the bottom, that the top center pin is the common ground pin, the pin in the center is the switched power pin, and the two lower pins on each side are not used. That leaves the four speaker pins (two on each side). I believe the correct pin connection for the speakers (again, looking at the MALE DIN remaining in the console with an orientation of the center pin at the top and the indent for connecting DNS at the bottom), is either:
- left side is RR top pin/LR bottom pin and right side is RF top pin/LF bottom pin, or
- left side is RF top pin/LF bottom pin and right side is RR top pin/LR bottom pin

Can someone confirm the correct pinout looking head-on at the MALE DIN in the console with an orientation of the center pin at the top and the indent for connecting DINS at the bottom?

muttster

Got wiring completed and new audio unit connected to the car. Unit appears to function normally with one BIG EXCEPTION, NO SOUND. Mute was not selected and volume was turned up. DIN adapter was wired to unit per first choice above (left side is RR top pin/LR bottom pin and right side is RF top pin/LF bottom pin). It appears power was getting to amp and as I heard a scratchy speaker sound when a CD was inserted to play, but then nothing after that.

Any ideas?

muttster

Additional data, each of the audio unit speaker (-) leads and the DIN common wire were connected to the black/brown ground lead on the main power harness to the car. The switched power from the main power harness was connected to the audio unit and to the center DIN pin. The amp antenna lead on the main harness was connected to the amp antenna lead on the audio unit but not to the DIN. Only power to the DIN was the switched ignition power.

muttster

Success!!! New Single DIN fold-out screen audio receiver using all original wiring harness!! Problem was by using the new heads speaker wires, it used internal amp, bypassed original amp. Switched to using Front and Rear RCA audio output jacks after making up a set of front RCA jacks (L/R), and a set of rear RCA jacks (L/R). Only problem was original DIN pinout (front and back were reversed) -- easy fix! Now for installing wiring for illumination, backup camera, and XM.

Hymodyne

I have a Blaupunkt single DIN DVD unit I hope to install soon.
James