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Great photos of the problem areas! As you can tell by the exposure of bare metal and aluminum, your car is without a doubt an unfortunate example of those that has been at least partially stripped with no further plans from the painter to restore adhesion than by way of mechanical bond. Scratches alone are insufficient for making paint stick on a 928. The better the metal, the harder it is to secure ample adhesion. Guess what kind of quality the metal is on your car.. I'll give you a hint.. The '15 and later 'aluminum' F150s would cost about $150k new if it were made of the same metal as your old Porsche.
I finally had a chance to hit the hood this evening. This time I used 120 grit and a lot of patience. Below are some pictures of what I found. I found a layer of black, over a grey primer, then blue, followed by grey primer, then blue, then a buff primer. Under the badge the paint just peeled right off. I exposed bare aluminum in a few places. Is the buff primer the electrostatic primer?
Matt, the e-coat on your car should be what I call kind of an olive color. What you're referring to as buff may be the same layer. Try to prevent from taking layers of film off in spots. It is very time consuming, but well worth it to continue machine stripping as you are. Sand in long continuous motions so as to feather the layers back in a broad ranging way. This limits unnecessary cut thrus to the aluminum. 120 grit is suitable by the way.
Matt-- I will be home Monday-- call me if you need help stripping the car. I can't wait to see how it turns out-- I bet it is going to be amazing when done!
11-15-2018, 06:14 PM
T
