I thought it might look cool to take the letters down to bare metal with a dremel tool - but there might be problems with the powder coat layer flaking around the letters. Red or black would look nice.

 

I had the rims for my Fiero powdercoated
Metallic copper.

They look even better in real life.....



Cheers

 

damn, I am really now considering getting my rims powder coated

what color would look good with meteor mettalic though, and has anyone done the factory flat dish rims? any pics

 

On the manifolds and valve covers you will find when blasting them there will be many casting flaws. It looks like the 85-86 valve covers pictured approacked the casting flaw problem by using a crinkle coating. To get a very good job it is best to prefinish the manifolds and valve covers before coating - at least in the visible areas. I ended up almost polishing my intake and then following the base coat with a clear.

Harbor Freight sells a power coating unit for $89 and often on sale for $59. I have this unit and it works well. I have installed a used double oven in my shop. It works fine for cooking the power and can fit most parts except wheels.

On the aluminum pieces I find polishing works best. I have power coated the polished pieces with a clear and gotten acceptable results.

Columbia Coating and Eastwood Products have a variety of powers including hi temp powers for exhaust manifolds.

The whole process is an easy do it yourself venture. Besure to have plenty of ventilation when baking the parts. Do not use the oven for anything elsea afterwards - like heating up a sandwich. I find on double sided parts it is best to coat the back side first and then the exposed side in a second baking. Columbia make a power primer that is nice for filing inprefections before the base coat. Clear coats really jazz up a piece. Metal lab makes a filler that works great for filling.

The better the prep the better the job as power coating tends to show every thing through from the base coat.

Hope this helps.