Ready to change motor mounts. What else while at it?
11-04-2018, 05:45 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ready to change motor mounts. What else while at it?
Probably shooting myself in the foot here, but I was going to start changing motor mounts tonight, but stopped because it looks like there are a couple things I'll be removing already or could easily remove with the crossmember out of the way.
Currently the only parts I have to change are the motor mounts and a junkyard driver's side upper control arm (has a good balljoint unlike mine).
It looks like my sway bar bushings and the rack bushings are both showing age (still intact though) and I'll be disconnecting those already, so it seems like those would make sense. The bigger thing that looks like I would have access to is the oil pan gasket. It looks like it's seeping at the rear of the motor, and it seems like it would just be unbolting it if I already have the crossmember out of the way. Does that sound about right?
Engine supports/braces made (from Dwayne's guide).
Oil pan in relation to the crossmember.
Driver's side mount. And resting on the crossmember there is a 10mm socket that I dropped earlier this summer and could never find.
Rack bushings and oil pan.
Now looking at this picture it seems like a lot of the oil is above the pan gasket...
Currently the only parts I have to change are the motor mounts and a junkyard driver's side upper control arm (has a good balljoint unlike mine).
It looks like my sway bar bushings and the rack bushings are both showing age (still intact though) and I'll be disconnecting those already, so it seems like those would make sense. The bigger thing that looks like I would have access to is the oil pan gasket. It looks like it's seeping at the rear of the motor, and it seems like it would just be unbolting it if I already have the crossmember out of the way. Does that sound about right?
Engine supports/braces made (from Dwayne's guide).
Oil pan in relation to the crossmember.
Driver's side mount. And resting on the crossmember there is a 10mm socket that I dropped earlier this summer and could never find.
Rack bushings and oil pan.
Now looking at this picture it seems like a lot of the oil is above the pan gasket...
11-04-2018, 06:44 PM
#3
Drifting
Concur with rack bushings and pan gasket. Yes with crossmember off it’s just unbolting pan, but some of bolts at front and next to compressor are awkward for access. 10mm flex head gear wrench is very useful for those.
11-04-2018, 08:49 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Also might be a good time to work on exhaust manifold for replacement or dealing with broken studs.
Good luck,
Dave
11-04-2018, 10:17 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I didn't scrutinize the whole exhaust, but the parts I did see looked like they were in good shape. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the parts ordered.
11-04-2018, 11:17 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
In addition to all of the above, check the boots on your steering rack.
It's a big job and a great idea is to steam wash everything you can reach before starting.
Have fun and pay attention to the disassembly/reassembly sequence!
It's a big job and a great idea is to steam wash everything you can reach before starting.
Have fun and pay attention to the disassembly/reassembly sequence!
11-04-2018, 11:21 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The rack boots are currently intact and not leaking. I'm sure they're old though. And if it's coming all the way off I do plan to clean it. I'm hoping I can degrease the block around the oil pan before I take it off too.
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11-05-2018, 12:32 AM
#8
Three Wheelin'
This is how mine started. Two years later and every suspension part under the car new or rebuilt. Car drives great though! Good luck. It is good fun and the end result is worth it.
11-05-2018, 07:23 AM
#9
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Looking at the pictures reminded me why I give half a dozen cans of spray engine cleaner to clinic day participants for use before they arrive. Foamy engine brite. I put a throwaway tarp under the car first and let it catch the slimy runoff. Clean up as high as you can, so after the work is done you can see the source of any future leaks. Fringe benefit: slime and grime that isn’t there won’t hold your 10mm socket hostage.
The first mm job I did was a greasy mess even after casual Simple Green cleaning. Never Again will I work on one that hasn’t been sanitized first. There will still be some grease that you miss, but still way better.
Plan on on replacing the leaking power steering bones wyait.
The first mm job I did was a greasy mess even after casual Simple Green cleaning. Never Again will I work on one that hasn’t been sanitized first. There will still be some grease that you miss, but still way better.
Plan on on replacing the leaking power steering bones wyait.
11-05-2018, 01:02 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
To echo what others have said:
Oil pan gasket. If it's leaking, now is the best (or 'least bad') time to do it.
Steering rack bushings
Sway bar bushings.
Lots of discussion about pan gasket - cork vs silicone, stud kit vs bolts. Do a bit of research and make up your own mind.
Some discussion about rack bushings. Derlin are popular. Solid are available. Not sure if originals are available or not.
FWIW, I went with silicone, studs and derlin bushings. First pan gasket got overtightened, so it split and I had to do it again. Proper torque on it is essential (one of the flaws).
Oil pan gasket. If it's leaking, now is the best (or 'least bad') time to do it.
Steering rack bushings
Sway bar bushings.
Lots of discussion about pan gasket - cork vs silicone, stud kit vs bolts. Do a bit of research and make up your own mind.
Some discussion about rack bushings. Derlin are popular. Solid are available. Not sure if originals are available or not.
FWIW, I went with silicone, studs and derlin bushings. First pan gasket got overtightened, so it split and I had to do it again. Proper torque on it is essential (one of the flaws).
11-05-2018, 03:34 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
I just did this last May. In addition to the the oil pan gasket and the motor mounts, I also put in some headers that I had been holding onto. If that's something you want to do, it's easier with everything out of the way and the use of a tite-reach ratchet. Also, depending on their condition, the heat shields may need new heat resistant material. You will want to look at the condition of the engine to frame grounding wire. Yours is looking pretty corroded from the pics.
That's all I can think of . That and just clean, clean and more clean.
Good luck and have fun!
That's all I can think of . That and just clean, clean and more clean.
Good luck and have fun!
11-05-2018, 04:01 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
I have a silicone pan gasket on my car with stock fasteners with lock washers and a bit of blue locktite on the threads. Has been leak free for over 6 years now without the need to "re-snug" anything. You just need to be careful not to over torque the bolts and make sure the bolt hole threads are perfectly clean.
11-06-2018, 07:31 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok, so as of now my list of things to get is:
-silicone oil pan gasket (need to get lock washers and loctite)
-rack bushings (looks like roger has delrins, seems like a better option than solid for a road car?)
-oil level sensor gasket
-oil breather tube blockoff plate gasket
-sway bar bushings
-clean the grease and ground wire (not really a get, but needs done)
Should I be worried about getting seals for the oil pickup or anything?
Rack boots look like they're ok and not showing any obvious signs of failing that I saw. It seems like access to them isn't really an issue with the rack in place (other than separating the tie rods from the knuckles) unless I'm missing something?
Exhaust manifold bolts seem to be in fairly good, not completely covered in rust (yay california car), condition. While headers would be nice down the road, I'm going to stick with focusing on things to make the car more reliable/safer first.
Guess I'll have to put in some orders tomorrow. I won't be able to work on the car much if any this weekend anyway, so no big deal that I probably won't have the parts this week.
-silicone oil pan gasket (need to get lock washers and loctite)
-rack bushings (looks like roger has delrins, seems like a better option than solid for a road car?)
-oil level sensor gasket
-oil breather tube blockoff plate gasket
-sway bar bushings
-clean the grease and ground wire (not really a get, but needs done)
Should I be worried about getting seals for the oil pickup or anything?
Rack boots look like they're ok and not showing any obvious signs of failing that I saw. It seems like access to them isn't really an issue with the rack in place (other than separating the tie rods from the knuckles) unless I'm missing something?
Exhaust manifold bolts seem to be in fairly good, not completely covered in rust (yay california car), condition. While headers would be nice down the road, I'm going to stick with focusing on things to make the car more reliable/safer first.
Guess I'll have to put in some orders tomorrow. I won't be able to work on the car much if any this weekend anyway, so no big deal that I probably won't have the parts this week.
11-06-2018, 07:36 PM
#15
Yes do the oil pick up seal as well. You may also want to check your rod bearings.