When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Call Roger, he ships to AU. 928sRUS.com. Sounds like a good plan. I hope you don't invest a bunch into an engine that has internal problems. My steps would tell you if you have a V8 or a V7, or internal mech damage with maybe 2 hours work and $10 in supplies.
So a happy day today.
I followed Docs instructions but just phase 1.
Cam belts looked ok..to me anyway pic provided.
I had the missus crank it and it wanted to fire. Took a bit and I nearly gave up but the missus said one more go.
The fuel tank is in need of a clean out it hasn't had fuel in it for years.
I lifted the sender and its a mess in there.
Plus it has a gungy internal fuel pump which I will discard for just a strainer.
I am busy next weekend then away for work so you wont hear from me for a while.
I considered running it from a Jerry can but I dont want to blow the place up.
Also the lights pop up, the windows work, the indicators work the fan works, the sunroof tried to but I didn't want to push it. Better it stays closed.
Off to a good start there! If the fuel looks very grungy, I suggest a cleaning pass. Find something like Caltex Techron fuel system cleaner, coiuple of bottles in less than a half tank, and bridge the pump relay(30->87, short wire with male spade tags both ends) and let it run while you explore other things, for as long as you can, with a fire extinguisher handy. Best relay bridge is a couple of metres of 2 core flex, with male spades one end (to plug into relay socket), and a switch the other end, so you can turn the pump on/off from the engine bay, or at the rear. This will circulate fuel and start cleaning dried crud into the filter - do this before you change filter obviously. Check the insides of the distributor caps, clean well. Ceal the rotors. Clean the ends of the plug leads 1 AT A TIME! Pull the plugs and replace them. Be VERY careful trying to remove the internal pump, it shouldnt take much torque to loosen it, and too much can loosen the threaded insert and you are in lots of trouble - BTDT myself!
jp 83 S
Im going to drop the tank and do it properly then I can best manage getting the old pump out,
Plus do the rear hoses at the same time.
But yeah the switch jumper wire is a good idea with length.
To get the tank out you will need the rear end higher than you might think, because of the length of the filler neck. Check the condition of the short hose from the return line into the gauge unit - it only took a small tug and mine came right off the steel tube, as the crimp was ineffective. I used a new piece of hose and a quality jubilee clip to replace it, while the tank was out. In cars without an in-tank pump, the leads for that pump were just taped up back along the loom at the factory. You will need new foam strips to cushion where the tank rests against the bodywork when you reinstall it. Be careful with the bolt that holds the filler neck up at the filler flap, as the alloy moulded into the filler neck is prone to corrosion. When I did my tank the rear hoses were available, but its a while ago now. One of the engine bay hoses was NLA, but I think it was the return line. I suggest you fit something like Firesleeve over the front hoses to protect them from exhaust manifold heat - take a hose as a sample so you get the right size. Also a good idea on the power steering hoses.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Replace all the fuel hoses under the hood before you drive it or you risk burning the car to the ground. Contact roger at 928srus to get them. Or you can get from Greg brown in California. You'll find him on rennlist.
09-21-2018, 10:00 PM
