Advice on new (to me) 85 928
09-18-2018, 01:33 PM
#16
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Welcome: You have your work cut out for you.
I wouldn't start or drive it till fuel lines are replaced. All fuel lines.
OK, with this purchase, you probably HAVE to do something and can't resist starting it, if only to hear it. Have fire extinguisher close, just a general rule here. With that mileage, it may be on second set of wires, but from the pics, it hasn't been touched lately. Change the plugs, wires, coil wires and distributor wires or at least de-oxit the coil and distrib. connections
In the New Visitor thread is a wealth of info. and in there somewhere are the 3 main vendors most of us recommend: 928gt.com (Dave Roberts), 928srus.com (Roger Tyson) and 928 International. And you already have Sean, as mechanic, not vendor.
Good luck.
I wouldn't start or drive it till fuel lines are replaced. All fuel lines.
OK, with this purchase, you probably HAVE to do something and can't resist starting it, if only to hear it. Have fire extinguisher close, just a general rule here. With that mileage, it may be on second set of wires, but from the pics, it hasn't been touched lately. Change the plugs, wires, coil wires and distributor wires or at least de-oxit the coil and distrib. connections
In the New Visitor thread is a wealth of info. and in there somewhere are the 3 main vendors most of us recommend: 928gt.com (Dave Roberts), 928srus.com (Roger Tyson) and 928 International. And you already have Sean, as mechanic, not vendor.
Good luck.
09-18-2018, 03:45 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Like seeing another '85 being rescued. Welcome to the tank.
Looks like there's a K&N air filter going by the black outer rubber strip. These filters tend to oil up the MAF wire and cause problems. Ask Roger for the correct one.
And once you've got it sorted out, I would recommend the Porken Chip set for the 85/86 models. Really woke my car up.
Looks like there's a K&N air filter going by the black outer rubber strip. These filters tend to oil up the MAF wire and cause problems. Ask Roger for the correct one.
And once you've got it sorted out, I would recommend the Porken Chip set for the 85/86 models. Really woke my car up.
09-18-2018, 07:08 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Uncle Rico,
The DFW 928 group has a breakfast GTG every the first Saturday of EVERY month beginning in the parking lot of a local eatery at 8am. Make plans to be there if you have never been. We would welcome you with or without your car.
The DFW 928 group has a breakfast GTG every the first Saturday of EVERY month beginning in the parking lot of a local eatery at 8am. Make plans to be there if you have never been. We would welcome you with or without your car.
09-18-2018, 08:55 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Oh man, I did exactly the same thing two years ago: Purchased a 1985 and drove it 150 miles home. 
You will probably need to do the following:
1) replace all fuel lines (they may look fine, but you will get sick to your stomach when you see how easy they crack).
2) replace the timing belt/water pump
3) replace power steering lines (another fire hazard as the ATF fluid is flammable and it is *right* next to the exaust...)
4) Intake refresh (Mark Frye has a great write-up and Scott Yoo documented his 86 refresh with lots of pictures and tips)
5) Release the pressure on the flex plate. It's easy and may prevent heart-ache.
Recommendations:
1) Read this forum. Seriously, i learn EVERY time i take 10 minutes to read the latest threads. Soooooooo much info here and the generosity of the folks here is staggering.
2) Save the link to Dwayne's Garage (http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/) His write-ups are crazy detailed with great pics. Seriously, this dude deserves to never pay for a drink at any 928 function he attends.
3) Be generous with the bolt penetrating fluid of your choice.
4) buy a set of lift bars from liftbars.com. Safest and easiest way to jack up the 928 unless you have a lift in your garage.
The one thing I would do differently if I had to do it all over again: Pull out the engine now. While it sounds crazy, it will save you a lot of head-ache. It will give you unfettered access to the oil pan (much harder than one would expect). It will allow you to replace the motor mounts (i promise you they probably need to be replaced). It will give you easier access to everything else that will need to be done. The only drawback is that you will probably see 20 other things that need to be fixed/replaced.
Just my 2 cents. Good luck bud. You will have a lot of fun with this car!
You will probably need to do the following:1) replace all fuel lines (they may look fine, but you will get sick to your stomach when you see how easy they crack).
2) replace the timing belt/water pump
3) replace power steering lines (another fire hazard as the ATF fluid is flammable and it is *right* next to the exaust...)
4) Intake refresh (Mark Frye has a great write-up and Scott Yoo documented his 86 refresh with lots of pictures and tips)
5) Release the pressure on the flex plate. It's easy and may prevent heart-ache.
Recommendations:
1) Read this forum. Seriously, i learn EVERY time i take 10 minutes to read the latest threads. Soooooooo much info here and the generosity of the folks here is staggering.
2) Save the link to Dwayne's Garage (http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/) His write-ups are crazy detailed with great pics. Seriously, this dude deserves to never pay for a drink at any 928 function he attends.
3) Be generous with the bolt penetrating fluid of your choice.
4) buy a set of lift bars from liftbars.com. Safest and easiest way to jack up the 928 unless you have a lift in your garage.
The one thing I would do differently if I had to do it all over again: Pull out the engine now. While it sounds crazy, it will save you a lot of head-ache. It will give you unfettered access to the oil pan (much harder than one would expect). It will allow you to replace the motor mounts (i promise you they probably need to be replaced). It will give you easier access to everything else that will need to be done. The only drawback is that you will probably see 20 other things that need to be fixed/replaced.
Just my 2 cents. Good luck bud. You will have a lot of fun with this car!
09-18-2018, 10:22 PM
#20
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Oh man, I did exactly the same thing two years ago: Purchased a 1985 and drove it 150 miles home. You will probably need to do the following:
The one thing I would do differently if I had to do it all over again: Pull out the engine now. While it sounds crazy, it will save you a lot of head-ache. It will give you unfettered access to the oil pan (much harder than one would expect). It will allow you to replace the motor mounts (i promise you they probably need to be replaced). It will give you easier access to everything else that will need to be done. The only drawback is that you will probably see 20 other things that need to be fixed/replaced.
Just my 2 cents. Good luck bud. You will have a lot of fun with this car!
You will probably need to do the following:The one thing I would do differently if I had to do it all over again: Pull out the engine now. While it sounds crazy, it will save you a lot of head-ache. It will give you unfettered access to the oil pan (much harder than one would expect). It will allow you to replace the motor mounts (i promise you they probably need to be replaced). It will give you easier access to everything else that will need to be done. The only drawback is that you will probably see 20 other things that need to be fixed/replaced.
Just my 2 cents. Good luck bud. You will have a lot of fun with this car!
I truly appreciate all the tips and advice.
Thanks
do it right. Have fun!
09-20-2018, 10:53 AM
#22
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Post #19 has the right theme. I'm not a fan of pulling engines for this work, but not against it either. Just that all this work can be done with the engine in place, so why the extra 10-12 hours labor? Oh well.
May be a trick of the lighting but appears to be painted silver over the orig black? Would tend to tell me you got a painted pig there, based on the faults found so far. All common stuff that goes bad on the 928. Comparative neglect. We have guys who go whole hog at once, and tackle everything together. I advocate doing the job in pieces. Timing belt and water pump first, then fuel lines. Then power steering, hoses and maybe motor mounts. Then brakes. Etc. If you have the money and time, you can pull the engine and do all the major services at once. There's a lot of work ahead.
May be a trick of the lighting but appears to be painted silver over the orig black? Would tend to tell me you got a painted pig there, based on the faults found so far. All common stuff that goes bad on the 928. Comparative neglect. We have guys who go whole hog at once, and tackle everything together. I advocate doing the job in pieces. Timing belt and water pump first, then fuel lines. Then power steering, hoses and maybe motor mounts. Then brakes. Etc. If you have the money and time, you can pull the engine and do all the major services at once. There's a lot of work ahead.
09-20-2018, 07:43 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
To pull the engine or not to pull the engine? Having done all of what you're contemplating, and more, I will ask you this - what's the health of your back?
Not pulling the engine will take a greater toll on your back. Mainly from having to lean over those wide fenders all the time.
Not pulling the engine will take a greater toll on your back. Mainly from having to lean over those wide fenders all the time.
09-21-2018, 10:18 PM
#24
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Planning on starting the TB/WP and fuel line replacement soon. Waiting on a shipment of parts from Roger.
Another question, when I come across corrosion on electrical connectors like this, what’s the best way to clean them?
09-21-2018, 10:23 PM
#25
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For some of them you can use Lime-Away. Use a small brush and brush it on, then leave it for a while, then rinse. For most connectors you'll want De-Ox-IT spray.
09-22-2018, 12:26 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
DeOxit is the go to solvent, kinda expensive, $12-15 for a small can. If you don't already have, get an assortment of small to large wire brushes, all shapes and sizes. If you are as clumsy as me, you will need one or two (designs) magnetic pick up tool for clips, nuts, bolts you drop. I also have a dental pick set, handy for the clips that secure electrical connectors like the one to the injectors. There is a "tool" thread somewhere.
09-23-2018, 08:27 AM
#27
Rennlist Member
Looks substantially complete and serviceable to me!
You've clearly done some research: your first post really sums up the first steps.
One add. Remove floor mats and side console covers, make sure you don't have vermin; remove air cleaner body and check valley for same.
An 8 or 10 inch flexible shaft penlight is a good tool for inspecting around the engine as you work the projects.
Make it run strong and enjoy. Fight the concept of making it perfect. If you want perfect, its better buying a better maintained one, or a new vette.
Enjoy the process!
You've clearly done some research: your first post really sums up the first steps.
One add. Remove floor mats and side console covers, make sure you don't have vermin; remove air cleaner body and check valley for same.
An 8 or 10 inch flexible shaft penlight is a good tool for inspecting around the engine as you work the projects.
Make it run strong and enjoy. Fight the concept of making it perfect. If you want perfect, its better buying a better maintained one, or a new vette.
Enjoy the process!
09-23-2018, 01:49 PM
#28
Nordschleife Master
DeOxit is the go to solvent, kinda expensive, $12-15 for a small can. If you don't already have, get an assortment of small to large wire brushes, all shapes and sizes. If you are as clumsy as me, you will need one or two (designs) magnetic pick up tool for clips, nuts, bolts you drop. I also have a dental pick set, handy for the clips that secure electrical connectors like the one to the injectors. There is a "tool" thread somewhere.
Brushes (nylon & bronze), picks and scrapers, magnetic pickup tools, 'claw' type grabbers (aluminum is non-magnetic), along with about a zillion other odds and ends.
There is a 'tool thread' here somewhere. Understand that it's a thread about tools that people have found to be very useful, yet things that you wouldn't think of. It's NOT a thread about which folks on here are capable of being real tools...
Although that might be useful too.
09-24-2018, 07:55 PM
#29
Drifting
If the rear floor mats are wet, pull out the rear seat cushions and check for water under them. Buy some leatherique and slather it on the dash, seats, possibly the door panels as well.
09-25-2018, 11:33 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Looks beautiful. If it seems to be running weird at low RPMs, try swapping out the ignition computers at the front of the car. Those things gate the 12 volts to the spark coils, and while the transistors hold up, they also have a set of op amps that measure the current from the knock sensors to retard timing. Granted the 85/86 do not have knock sensors, but those op-amps fail. When they do they get noisy and drive the timing completely nuts.
My 86 was weak in the bottom end when I bought it, drove it 200 miles home (barely), swapped out the ignition computers, and a happy car it became. Little 944S trick :-)
Also check the wires and grommets for the ABS and brake wires. They're probably shot which will cause those wires to fall on the axles and fail ABS and brake pad sensors.
And replace the rubber on the pipe organ, as if those leak your car will do insane things. Remember the sides of the intake organ both breathe and move.
Amazing car, you will love it.
C
My 86 was weak in the bottom end when I bought it, drove it 200 miles home (barely), swapped out the ignition computers, and a happy car it became. Little 944S trick :-)
Also check the wires and grommets for the ABS and brake wires. They're probably shot which will cause those wires to fall on the axles and fail ABS and brake pad sensors.
And replace the rubber on the pipe organ, as if those leak your car will do insane things. Remember the sides of the intake organ both breathe and move.
Amazing car, you will love it.
C