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I went through a similar injector wire retainer scene (lost a couple during removal) and fabricated replacements from spring wire. Dead easy. I can't remember what size the wire was but you can eyeball the proper diameter if you bring a clip with you to True Value. But even at $2/ea, new square end clips will be a very cost effective solution compared to time spent swearing. New connectors are a lot more, something like $20/ea.
Folks pay attention here—^.
Regardless of how your injectors “lost” their retainers, the “U”-style retainers don’t work very well at all unless they are permanently affixed by remelting the plastic over them. However, if you make “C”-style retainers (look at the knock sensors) those may stay put well-enough without help.
That melted plastic tab thing has got to be the hokiest design of all time.
A bold statement Sir Charlie. A contest you propose? It is hokey. But, I will bet that there are hokier out there.
I have never received anything but excellent advice from Dave C. He is a real pro who helps hapless noobs like me for free, as do many on this list. He has opinions certainly but I do not think he was trying to be personal or condescending
Removing the retaining wires from the injector connectors is one my irrationality-enraging pet peeves right up there with cutting a hole in the body to get to the clutch master cylinder or cleaning you paint with steel wool
Buy the !@#%ing Bosch tool
not exactly sure how else to interpret this type of post??
it might be more constructive to educate the community about the bosch tool, how to use is, and/or how
to correctly remove the pins using a scribe or pick. that would be productive, positive, and helpful.
I am not sure that the mistake of removing these wires is like cutting holes in the body of the car or cleaning paint with steel wool??
I like your approach. Re: mistake - That hole cutting thing is certainly real. Some well known folks have done it and manage to sleep well afterward. But intermittent injector failure is also real and $$$ to diagnose. Perhaps we should heed the advice of 928 guru Faye Dunaway:
The Bosch tool is Porsche tool #9266, or 000 721 926 60, it fits over the shoulders of the female connector and with lateral wiggling pops off. Best use is for re-installing the ISV connector plug.
I like the new style connectors with the push type release, but my connectors are in great shape
and I really do not want to cut back and solder in new ones. Stratford shark asked this:
Did you splice in pigtails, or use connectors only and remove the terminals from original connectors? I like the squeeze design, but am concerned about introducing potential failure points with splicing in pigtails.
will the wires with the bent ends allow for a positive connection with the injector?
Perhaps we should heed the advice of 928 guru Faye Dunaway:
This -^ On the nose.
That's why I wrote
Originally Posted by worf928
... one my irrationality-enraging pet peeves ...
Because I realize that it makes me irrational. Undertray fasteners are another. But, I don't go all Joan Crawford about it - the first time - because I buy the correct fasteners by the pound and thus have replacements.. Now, when a 928 comes back to me and the correct fasteners I installed previously have been lost by "Jiffy Lube" and replaced with a mish-mash of fasteners...
Originally Posted by merchauser
I am not sure that the mistake of removing these wires is like cutting holes in the body of the car or cleaning paint with steel wool??
Nor do I consider following the WSM directions for leaving the front lower rear control arms loose until the suspension is settled to be the same as cutting a hole in the inner fender to access the clutch master cylinder. But, that charge has been leveled against me.
There's some part of "irrationality-enraging" that passed you by?
There are very few parts on a 928 that require even mild destruction for removal. If anyone finds themselves in the state of mind that breaking a part is required to remove it chances are that they a) are wrong and b) will cause themselves or someone else far more work in the not-so-distant future. I have seen a front-main harness cut in half and butt-spliced back together because it was unfathomable that it could be disconnected and the timing belt pulled out from around it. I have seen a fresh repaint cleaned with a Brillo pad by the owner's SO. I have seen injectors glued to the connectors because the clips were removed. And, I have cured intermittent misfires by restoring the retainers to the injector connectors.
Originally Posted by merchauser
to correctly remove the pins using a scribe or pick. that would be productive, positive, and helpful.
For future readers: I just went out to the shop and did it. First time. No muss. No fuss. Here:
You only have to get one leg of the retainer away from the connector tab and then you can, with two fingers, wiggle the connector free.
For injectors that you can't get two fingers to (in any case, pick or Bosch tool, the best way, IMO, to remove the connectors) you remove the two nuts that secure the rails to the intake. Then you can rotate the injector bodies until your fingers - or the Bosch tool - can get purchase. In all cases the disconnection procedure should minimize stress on the harness and branches to the connectors. Bend wiring only as much as you have to. Unless your harness is factory-fresh flexible.
For current readers, once the retainers are off the connectors, in order to securely retain the connector to the injectors when everything goes back together, you have to get them back on. Charlie (chart928S4) was lucky. He, somehow, managed to remove the retainers in a super-minimally destructive manner and then - probably with lots of time, sore fingers and newly-minted curse words - was able to get them back on without loosing all of them and in such a manner that they stayed on and did their job. (Until we took everything apart when the motor was on the stand. Then they fell off.)
What I do, when someone else has pulled off the retainers (and if anyone has a better way, I'm all ears) is to reproduce, as much as possible, what the harness maker did: melt a bit of the connector plastic over the retainer. It ain't pretty, but it is functional.
My amateur habits include using a small forceps to hold the clip on removal. Lift it out with a dentist probe, grab with the forceps, lift one end with the probe, then wiggle the connector to remove. Executive assistant working on the other side, solved with a small magnet tool to recover the clip from the injector hole all the way to the combustion chamber. Count our blessings that both the piston and cylinder are non-magnetic.
Safety wire instead of the clips for racing and aerospace applications?
Use a small pick of one's choice and pry up one of the ends of the securing-wire so that the end of the wire catches on the connector and will not reseat itself. Next, gently tug on the connector and off it comes.
To reinstall, again take a pick and lift the wire over the corner of the connector and into its slot.
09-16-2018, 11:58 AM
It is hokey. But, I will bet that there are hokier out there.
