saildoc

Guy

I try to only use spray dye when dying the same color. Light coat just to freshen it up I avoid dying carpet and seat surfaces as well and then only sparingly. Get an exact color match and prep the surface well.

Speedtoys

The refinish, will be more matte than original, and a little 'rougher' surface as well.

Ladybug83

I found this to be true when spraying outside, with the piece downwind of me and my spray gun. I also found that spraying upwind gave me a more of a gloss finish because the overspray was floating away from the piece.

I also discovered that once the pieces were installed in the car, the sprayed pieces will stick to the adjacent/touching pieces. For example, my sprayed visors stick to the headliner and my sunroof panel also sticks. Map pocket covers also stick to the door panel. Not ideal.

Next time I'll forgo re-dying pieces and recover with new material or just replace with better pieces.

drooman

Guy

Yes. Our local auto body supplier has a chip book and custom mixes our interior colors when needed. SEM is still the manufacturer. It has flex agents as well. Even when sprayed by HVLP it has limited longevity on high ware surfaces such as seats. Dash and interior quarters would be fine though.

I had a 13k 79 Trans Am with a red interior. Even with low miles and stored inside, the interior plastics changed to an odd shade of purple. A light coat of dye really bought it back without giving it a dyed look. There is definitely a place for these products when used properly.

mkhargrove

wrap them with a new vinyl. there's a bit of a learning curve but the end result is far more visually appealing (my opinion) than vinyl paint/dye. the faux leathers (modern vinyl) have superior uv resistance vs. vinyls from a few decades ago. there's a good variety of textures/colors/finishes. do the job right and your car is good for the rest of our existence.

mkhargrove

experience talking here....if you're going to spray SEM vinyl/leather/plastic color, go very easy, multiple coats as light as possible with plenty of drying time. if you spray a heavy coat, the result will be far more glossy vs. matte

also, you can get a custom 2 part urethane mix from your auto paint supply store that's going to give a better result than SEM. have the shop match the color you like, have them add flattening agent, and if it's going on a flexible part, a flex agent. this is more expensive, and requires that you spray from a paint sprayer instead of a rattle can, but if prepped properly, will give a result that looks better and is more durable than rattle can products. its critical to remove any trace of old armor all, pledge, etc. from the surface to be painted, and you might end up needing an adhesion promoter