928 S3 - To paint or not to paint?
#16
#18
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From: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
I have a red Mondial as well. If you are going to paint it and you really are OCD, you need a painter you really, really, really, really trust. One who will let you do the trim strip, and will paint it to your standards, and let you assemble it again. I have such a painter here in W Fort Worth TX. He is familiar with 928 painting and has done very nice work on three of my cars. I would advise you to find one like I have, or send it to me disassembled, and have the spray work done, then come pick it up. My guy would charge about $4000 for the prep and spray in black, if you do the trim work. This does not include jambs, and inside hatch or hood. You would like the work, but it's a long trip to central TX from you. Find someone who has painted at least one 928 before, and is willing to listen to you.
good luck
good luck
#19
I would not paint a car that I was thinking on selling in the near of future. The big reason is that a recent repaint lowers overall value of car in my opinion as a buyer. Ok, if it was repainted 10 years ago and still isn't rusting, then a repaint is less of a minus. If you repaint, be sure and document it!!!
That said, if you plan on keeping it a while and have already done so much work, I agree with Giddyup and go the whole mile! But follow Docmirror's advice and don't let anybody paint it who has not had some experience with 928s!
That said, if you plan on keeping it a while and have already done so much work, I agree with Giddyup and go the whole mile! But follow Docmirror's advice and don't let anybody paint it who has not had some experience with 928s!
#20
More shade than tree. I like that.
I would drive it like that for a while, iron out any bugs and then paint it. If you ever find yourself selling it you will find that any buyer will judge and discount its value based on its appearance regardless of how much you spent on the mechanicals.
I would drive it like that for a while, iron out any bugs and then paint it. If you ever find yourself selling it you will find that any buyer will judge and discount its value based on its appearance regardless of how much you spent on the mechanicals.
#21
Well, I've been toying with the idea of a repaint on my new to me 86 S3 and decided to try paint correction - it's going in today actually after a 2 month wait for a really good shop nearby. It won't be perfect but he feels it will come out as a very very nice driver condition. This could be a less expensive option that would be enough for you.
On a side note, why only fine a painter with 928 experience ? Just trying to think what's so unique to the 928 relative to painting ?
On a side note, why only fine a painter with 928 experience ? Just trying to think what's so unique to the 928 relative to painting ?
#22
Another issue is the paint itself, and getting as close as possible to the original type. While modern paint is much much better & more durable than the old stuff, sometimes you want a 40-year-old car to look original, rather than the super-deep clearcoat & gloss of modern paint. It's good to have a painter who is familiar with vintage German paint & how they did it back then. Lots of people don't care about this, but some do.
IMHO, if I can find someone who speaks fluent Porsche as well as being a talented painter and meticulous, and the price is comparable to most places, I'll haul my car a day or so to their shop rather than go with the local guy who spends all of his time repairing new Buicks and Toyotas.
(BTW, I'm going to be doing exactly that in a very short time)
#23
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From: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
The factory fought a long messy battle with paint suppliers to get the paint on the bumpers to match the steel, and alum body panels. There are two additives for paint back then that was used. Modern paint chemistry is not as sensitive to the substrate, but you still want a guy who's done a 928 or other similar bumper type to get it right. Also, for the single stage paint, using an HPLV gun it's easy to get orange peel finish. Getting a smooth gloss coat of single stage with HPLV can be a challenge.
#26
Thought I would post some pics of paint correction - a lot is possible - although not perfect as a new coat would be. My paint guru was a bit conservative as he did not want to take too much off with single layer paint. Overall, I'm very happy with the result and have a respectable driver with all original paint.
Cleaned before abrasive
Compounded but not polished
Cleaned before abrasive
Compounded but not polished
#27
Wow!
That came out great! There is a company here that has a very good reputation that does paint correction. The two problems I have are a small area of surface rust below the passenger side window, and some very visible overspray on the trim surrounding the rear quarter windows.
I might still give it a try.
I might still give it a try.
#29
The paint correction and interior wash down was about $800 - he had the car for 3 Days - I also spent $400 on ding removal on all panels and about $250 for removal and replacement of the window tinting
It’s far from perfect up close as deep scratches don’t come out but still a very very nice driver. From 3 feet, it looks almost new.
It’s far from perfect up close as deep scratches don’t come out but still a very very nice driver. From 3 feet, it looks almost new.