Unloved 928
#1
Unloved 928
Having just secured my latest project a 1984 Porsche 928 S2 auto, its now time to bring it back to life having been off the road for 11 years, although i have my own way of starting aged engines i thought id throw out for some ideas from people who know the car. Below is what i know about the car
2000 Top end reconditioned new cams valves etc new timing belt / kit0 and water etc mileage 98000
2003 have a full autobox rebuild and tube renditioned mileage 100535
2004 Yearly inspection mileage 100727
2005 mileage 100001
2007 mileage 100003
2018 current 100003
Car currently no starting or turning over have just removed starter and had checked and its weak old age and past repairs, New one on way
Engine is turning by hand tight but i think this is more down the AC pump
Over to you how would you proceed
2000 Top end reconditioned new cams valves etc new timing belt / kit0 and water etc mileage 98000
2003 have a full autobox rebuild and tube renditioned mileage 100535
2004 Yearly inspection mileage 100727
2005 mileage 100001
2007 mileage 100003
2018 current 100003
Car currently no starting or turning over have just removed starter and had checked and its weak old age and past repairs, New one on way
Engine is turning by hand tight but i think this is more down the AC pump
Over to you how would you proceed
#2
Race Car
Hi,
I also have an '84 auto that I bought a couple years ago that last ran 10 years previous. So pretty similar situation. I took the slow, steady and methodical approach and did every thing in steps bfore even trying to start the car.. First, if you haven't done it yet, do yourself a favor and read through the entire New Vistor sticky thread. Then come back and read the rest of my post.
For me I started with this excellent approach by Hilton.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post8556884
Engine: Drain all fluids. oil, coolant. Look for water in the oil. Hopefully you dont find it. If you do, plan on a head gasket job.
Fuel System: First thing I did was drop the fuel tank and cleaned it out. No doubt yours will be filled with old varnished fuel. Search is your friend on RL and you can find multiple post on how to do this. Along with the fuel tank cleaning, which took multiple soaks and rinses over the course of one week, I replaced the fuel pump and filter. Also my fuel sender was shot and I'm willing to bet yours is too. The next very important thing to do is replace all the flexible flammable fluid lines. Fuel and power steering. Too many unfornate fires from people like us trying to revive old 928s that have 30+ year old lines. I then removed the fuel rails and soaked them in ATF to remove all the old fuel. Next I sent the fuel injectors out to Witchhunter to get refurbed. Great value for money with those guys. Next I checked for vacuum leaks on both the fuel damper and fuel pressure regulator. Fortunately for me they were both good.
Electrical: Clean all the grounds. Every last one. All of them. The location of them is posted in the New Visitor sticky, but you already knew that right because you read my first paragraph. . Next remove the CE "central electrical" panel completely from the pax footwell. Before removing every fuse and relay double check them against your owners manual to make sure you have all of them. Now remove all of them and clean every connector with DeOxit and and pencil eraser. Also put the following 3 relays on your shopping list, starter, fuel pump, and fuel injector. Even if they work now, and there's a good chance one or more don't, they have a high rate of failure, especially if they are orginal. Next buy a new green wire. Search here and you will see why this is mandatory. Also, buy a new battery, negative battery post ground wire, engine to chassis ground wire, coil, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug and plug wires. Do it right the first time and don't look back was my mantra.
Top End Resfresh: Again search is your friend. What is involved in the TOR varies slighty from person to person, but generally it involves cleaning, refurbishing, repairing and or replacing everything connected to the top of the engine, not necessarily the stuff on the front of the engine, rear of the engine, or fenders. For me this included but was not limited to: vacuum lines (not an option to skip lest you want to chase down all type of issues), air filter, removing and thoroughly cleaning the spider intakes and plenum, spider intake to plenum rubber cinnectors, all rubber vent lines, oil neck filler, water bridge and associated gaskets including thermostat, HCV, throttle body cleaning, MAF houshing cleaning and associated gaskets, etc, etc, etc.
After all of this you can put it all back together and set the timing (very important, won't run if you do it incorrectly like I did the first attempt). Our '84s are not interference motors so you can elect to skip the TB/WP job, but if you are inclined to do so by all means do that while you are at it.
Plan on spending anywhere between $5-$10K on parts. I suggest buying them from one or all (like I did) of the 4 main 928 specific vendors, 928sRus (Roger), 928 International (Mark), 928 Specialists (Dave), and 928 Motorsports (Carl). Not only do they have the parts, they more importantly have the knowledge on how our cars work. eBay and Rennlsit members are also a good source.
The 928 is the most enjoyable car I have yet to wrench on. Yes there is a lot to do in your situation, but Rome wasn't built in a day as they say. Small bites and have fun.
Oh and ps. Post some pics of your car!
I also have an '84 auto that I bought a couple years ago that last ran 10 years previous. So pretty similar situation. I took the slow, steady and methodical approach and did every thing in steps bfore even trying to start the car.. First, if you haven't done it yet, do yourself a favor and read through the entire New Vistor sticky thread. Then come back and read the rest of my post.
For me I started with this excellent approach by Hilton.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post8556884
Engine: Drain all fluids. oil, coolant. Look for water in the oil. Hopefully you dont find it. If you do, plan on a head gasket job.
Fuel System: First thing I did was drop the fuel tank and cleaned it out. No doubt yours will be filled with old varnished fuel. Search is your friend on RL and you can find multiple post on how to do this. Along with the fuel tank cleaning, which took multiple soaks and rinses over the course of one week, I replaced the fuel pump and filter. Also my fuel sender was shot and I'm willing to bet yours is too. The next very important thing to do is replace all the flexible flammable fluid lines. Fuel and power steering. Too many unfornate fires from people like us trying to revive old 928s that have 30+ year old lines. I then removed the fuel rails and soaked them in ATF to remove all the old fuel. Next I sent the fuel injectors out to Witchhunter to get refurbed. Great value for money with those guys. Next I checked for vacuum leaks on both the fuel damper and fuel pressure regulator. Fortunately for me they were both good.
Electrical: Clean all the grounds. Every last one. All of them. The location of them is posted in the New Visitor sticky, but you already knew that right because you read my first paragraph. . Next remove the CE "central electrical" panel completely from the pax footwell. Before removing every fuse and relay double check them against your owners manual to make sure you have all of them. Now remove all of them and clean every connector with DeOxit and and pencil eraser. Also put the following 3 relays on your shopping list, starter, fuel pump, and fuel injector. Even if they work now, and there's a good chance one or more don't, they have a high rate of failure, especially if they are orginal. Next buy a new green wire. Search here and you will see why this is mandatory. Also, buy a new battery, negative battery post ground wire, engine to chassis ground wire, coil, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug and plug wires. Do it right the first time and don't look back was my mantra.
Top End Resfresh: Again search is your friend. What is involved in the TOR varies slighty from person to person, but generally it involves cleaning, refurbishing, repairing and or replacing everything connected to the top of the engine, not necessarily the stuff on the front of the engine, rear of the engine, or fenders. For me this included but was not limited to: vacuum lines (not an option to skip lest you want to chase down all type of issues), air filter, removing and thoroughly cleaning the spider intakes and plenum, spider intake to plenum rubber cinnectors, all rubber vent lines, oil neck filler, water bridge and associated gaskets including thermostat, HCV, throttle body cleaning, MAF houshing cleaning and associated gaskets, etc, etc, etc.
After all of this you can put it all back together and set the timing (very important, won't run if you do it incorrectly like I did the first attempt). Our '84s are not interference motors so you can elect to skip the TB/WP job, but if you are inclined to do so by all means do that while you are at it.
Plan on spending anywhere between $5-$10K on parts. I suggest buying them from one or all (like I did) of the 4 main 928 specific vendors, 928sRus (Roger), 928 International (Mark), 928 Specialists (Dave), and 928 Motorsports (Carl). Not only do they have the parts, they more importantly have the knowledge on how our cars work. eBay and Rennlsit members are also a good source.
The 928 is the most enjoyable car I have yet to wrench on. Yes there is a lot to do in your situation, but Rome wasn't built in a day as they say. Small bites and have fun.
Oh and ps. Post some pics of your car!
#4
So here is the work ahead
Here in the UK the Porsche 928 prices are going through the roof expecially for Project cars as they are becoming less common due to people breaking them for spares over the 90s and 2000s. So ive taken the pung again after 10 years without one might look a little rough but all in all solid for a UK car few areas will need addressing mainly inner sills rest of underneath solid. few picturs below.
#6
From acorns oaks grow
Might look rough now but nothing a bit of fun can't put right, mainly a solid body and underneath but here in uk the damp pays it toll. So base of inner sills have caught the rust worm. First things first get engine started and moving then strip down over the winter. Do I stay with the original colour or not white interior option open
#7
Race Car
Well that my friend will definitely be a labor of love. In the end this could be one of the all time 928 saves. I think red over white is a good look myself. I am actually sort of amazed at how well the condition of the dash looks considering the rest of the car.
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#8
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Before spending too much find a rust specialist who knows MOT regs very well. You may be beyond economic repair as these are unit-body construction. Have it looked at carefully.
#9
Being trained in both engineering and mechanics rust isn't a problem cut out fabrication replace luckily enough even though the car looks rough appearance don't always give the true picture underneath is solid with exception of the inner sill edge once stripped out I'll cutout all rust and weld in new, then Repipe and rerubber underneath. Car should be on ramp in a week as soon as I've resprayed tvr bonnet
#11
Looks like a number of fuel lines have been replaced within the engine compartment, rear end need replacing but that will be done when I strip out the tank and renovate the tank cradle. Matter of norm I strip out all pipes when welding
#12
Drifting
I hope you have a donor car lined up, because otherwise I don't see how a restoration like that could be viable
At least you have the skill set needed, so you're way ahead of me anyway
Good luck
At least you have the skill set needed, so you're way ahead of me anyway
Good luck